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Old 23rd Oct 2017, 7:13 pm   #1
dj_fivos_sak
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Default 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Yesterday I found this nice PAL-SECAM set in the trash near my house. It's manufactured May 25th, 1981. It was extremely dirty and dusty on the inside. My question is, is it safe to plug it in and test it? It looks fine. It would be a great combo with my Sanyo 9455 woodgrain Beta VCR.

Fivos
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Old 23rd Oct 2017, 7:38 pm   #2
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dj_fivos_sak View Post
My question is, is it safe to plug it in and test it? It looks fine.

Fivos
That is an impossible question to answer! YOU have to decide if it is safe! You'll need to have a look inside first and establish if it might have got wet, check to see if anything has been disconnected, look to see if there is any evidence of burning anywhere particularly in the power supply and line output sections.

You don't indicate your level of skill but I would guess that by asking the question, you may not have much experience of TV. At the very least, take the back off and supply some good quality pictures. We should be able to give you some idea of condition.

No-one can know if it is safe to plug in without doing some basic tests. Best thing is to assume that it's unsafe until these checks are carried out.
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Old 23rd Oct 2017, 7:50 pm   #3
paulsherwin
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

I think it would be safe to apply power if everything is dry. Be prepared to disconnect at the first sign of problems (crackling, smells, smoke etc).
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Old 23rd Oct 2017, 8:11 pm   #4
dj_fivos_sak
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Here's some photos of the chassis. It wasn't rainy when it was threw out so I guess it's not wet at all. In fact I can't see any signs of humidity.
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Old 23rd Oct 2017, 9:18 pm   #5
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Is that a KT3 chassis? I've got a 14" set with the same chassis, it had been in the loft of my old house for about 10 years, I just plugged it in and it came on ok, the frame stage took a while to wake up, but once it had it was producing a good picture.

If you are worried about it going bang, put it outside and power it from an extension lead! You could poke about with a multimeter to check for any obvious problems before power up.

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Old 23rd Oct 2017, 9:33 pm   #6
stuie319
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Hi,

That certainly is a KT3. Other than the tripler, surge limiter, and dodgy edge connectors on the daughter boards, not much went wrong with them.

If you've established it's dry I think I'd plug in and try!

Regards,

Stu
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Old 23rd Oct 2017, 9:38 pm   #7
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Hi,
what a nice set ! I would wait to let the set dry out for a few days before powering up.
is it anything like this one !
if so it maybe a multistandard KT3 .
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Old 23rd Oct 2017, 9:49 pm   #8
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Thank you all guys! I will follow Lloyd's advice and let you know tomorrow.

Fivos
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Old 23rd Oct 2017, 9:51 pm   #9
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

I can't see any obvious faults like burnt components, bulging or burst capacitors in those pictures. I think it's OK to plug it in, but be careful. It looks like a Philips KT3 or similar chassis with remote control. The KT3 chassis is 'live' regardless of which way round the mains plug is inserted. This means it is NOT SAFE to touch any part of the chassis while it is plugged in. You could get a fatal electric shock. Also, if you need to connect any earthed / grounded test equipment to the TV, such as an oscilloscope, an isolating transformer must be used.

In my case, I have a couple of vintage Philips KT3 televisions (PAL system only) and they both worked when plugged in. Very nice, reliable sets. Just be careful about the live chassis. Always unplug from the mains before touching it.
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Old 24th Oct 2017, 1:14 pm   #10
60 oldjohn
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Nice set, one weak bit is the mains push switch, or rather the plastic threaded part of the case breaks letting the switch fall inside. I am talking about 30 years ago, plastic never improves with age!


John.
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Old 24th Oct 2017, 1:57 pm   #11
steve1010uk
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Years ago nearly every one of these i came across had a low emission tube !
other than that they are not bad set's, but as others have said lot's of edge connector troubles and many tripler failures.

Be brave plug it in !!

Steve
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Old 24th Oct 2017, 10:13 pm   #12
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

If it's the A51 570X CRT (I think that was the one anyway) you will be very lucky if it's any good. The chassis itself was very reliable and I think it is very likely the CRT might be the reason it was thrown out.

Check the CRT base, there are 2 coils (chokes?) in series with the feed to the heaters. Have they been bridged out? This was a common way of squeezing a bit more life out of a tired CRT.

The similar 110 degree K30 sets were much better and the 30AX CRT's lasted a lot longer. It's just down to a poor CRT. There was a Decca set that used the same CRT, with the same issues.
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Old 24th Oct 2017, 10:22 pm   #13
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Had issues wit the tubes on these also, but not all. The smaller were lived longer. The 30 AX weren't problem free either.

I would have powered it up and let it run for a while and checked if the components aren't getting too hot.
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Old 25th Oct 2017, 8:11 am   #14
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Great receivers! I bet it works! John.
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Old 25th Oct 2017, 2:57 pm   #15
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Before you power up I'd be tempted to take the EHT cap off and give it a really good clean, polish and dry. Also check the earthing springs on the CRT are present and correct - the plastic anchors used to snap. Then check the BU208 - if OK disconnect the tripler's input lead, power up and see what happens. If it's completely dead the 4.7 ohm 5W resistor on the power board will be open.
If it's an orange label A51-570 as others have mentioned it's probably flat. However some were fitted with a Matsushita CRT which lasted forever.
Glyn
PS That looks like a Philips green label CRT - you might be in luck.
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Old 25th Oct 2017, 5:38 pm   #16
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Aww no Rifa mains X2 smoke bomb? That's a shame haha! Well I guess there wouldn't be seeing as Philips made 99.9% of their own components!
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Old 25th Oct 2017, 7:53 pm   #17
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hans View Post
Had issues wit the tubes on these also, but not all. The smaller were lived longer.
Hi.

Yes the 20" A51 570X seemed to go flat quite soon but the little 14" A37 556X was a good tube that lasted well. I think the 16" tubes were also good.
With the 20" tubes we used to replace one of the series chokes feeding the tube's heaters, with a wire link. Philips suggested not to bypass both chokes, I guess to avoid overrunning the heater. I came across several sets where both chokes were shorted out.
Looking at the mains input board, it looks like the original green 4R7 5W surge limiter resistor has been replaced with a more reliable white ceramic type. As others have said tripler troubles were common but the LOPT is reliable. I used to get the odd tuner problems but I guess no more so than most sets.

I liked the KT3 and also it's big brother the K30, that was a real beauty.

Regards
Symon.

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Old 25th Oct 2017, 8:18 pm   #18
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

Hi

There were two versions of the KT3 and K30 chassis. The early sets had a 2 chip colour decoder. Later sets (Edition 2) had a single chip (TDA3560) colour decoder. On the single chip decoder, I had a few problems with TDA3560's holder. With care this can be stripped down and the individual contacts cleaned. The two decoders aren't interchangeable. There were also a number of changes to the main chassis. I'm not too sure but I think the changeover came about in around 1982 but I'm only working from memory.

Regards
Symon.
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Old 26th Oct 2017, 6:06 pm   #19
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

KT3 chassis. Philips at it's extreme best. The 20" tubes were very bad but most of these were fitted with the super 14" tube. Incredible brightness and definition.

I used to remove the decoder chip holder on the later versions, quill the chip's lead out pins and solder direct to chassis. problem solved for good. John.
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Old 26th Oct 2017, 7:04 pm   #20
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Default Re: 1981 Philips 20CT3322/61Z. To plug it in or not?

So, I plugged the set in and pressed the power switch. A orange-red LED came on. I pressed a channel button, the LED turned to green and the flyback transformer made the normal buzzing sound and then the set came on but the screen was black. No raster/snow. I let it like this for 5 seconds and then unplugged it. Does that sound good to you?
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