Russell Hobbs 4101 switch access?

[llama]

Does anyone know how to get into the switch of this lovely kettle, please?

I've stripped the unit as far as the switch module and suspect the fault is contacts within the switch. I can see that the top plastic circular plate is a separate part but can't get it off the cylindrical casing without doing likely damage.

I imagine this is meant to be changed as a unit but I can't find it listed on any of the online spares websites so back to square one and attempt to repair what I've got.

Anyone know how to gain access to the actual switch contacts, please?
Graham

[mike_newcomb]

Hi Graham,
possibly some photos would help.
I have found RH spares (when available) to be prohibitively expensive.
e.g. (3 off) Feet on bottom, not available.
Regards - Mike

[ex 2 Base]

To remove the switch assy you need a special tool. Basically it a piece of round bar about .25" in diameter with a hole drilled down its centre, then its filed, so that there are two pieces sticking up some thing like the castellation on a fort. I have one, made many years ago when all appliances were repaired. Its a long time since I've fixed one but I seem to remember that once the switch cover was removed the tool was next used, could be wrong. I hope that helps. Ted

[Boater Sam]

RH, not made to be fixed " NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS INSIDE" It's all down to marketing and the deluded belief that we cannot repair anything safely anymore.
If it is a tamper proof screw, the bits are sold in sets even in Pound shops I believe!

[llama]

Thanks for the responses - much appreciated. I've now managed to get some photos with my phone which should at least be indicative of the switch type. As shown the kettle is fitted with an IEC C12/C13 connection.

Regarding the strip-down so far, I didn't need the tube-type forked tool - I think that may be for removing the earthing part where the older style connector is used. In fact I made such a tool by filing down two areas on the end of a tube spanner. Not needed for this job though.

The three fixings are indeed security type but luckily I have a set of these so no great problem.

The black circular disc on the non-IEC side is the part that looks like it ought to come off but I can't see any conventional fixings that attach it to the body. I can't help feeling that if I could get that apart I could clean the contact (neutral) that isn't making!
Graham

[matthewhouse]

Those modules used to be available as spares, they were about £2.50 IIRC.

[mike_newcomb]

Hi Graham, take care when dismantling the module.
I have found them to contain a myriad of small (easily displaced) parts, including 1 -3 thermal cutouts.

if you decide on replacing the module, suggest giving Proprietor Patel a call here, or email with photos.

http://www.macleodelectric.co.uk/shop?c=3

I have found him most helpful.
Good Luck - Mike

[llama]

Thanks Mike. I've emailed the supplier in your link and hope for a positive response.

I'd like to try dismantling the switch module as the fault may just be dirty/corroded contacts. However, I can't find a way in! I guess it snaps together when assembled in the factory but these things normally have a place to prod to released the "barb". There are two rectangular slots above the IEC connector - they seem to line-up with the pressure contacts onto the element. I've prodded in there whilst levering on the outer plastic plate but no luck so far.
What's the trick, please?
Graham