Is it a Bush TUG.68 ?

[Stubble]

Hi all
Could anyone confirm as to whether this is indeed model TUG.68 please?

The set dose not have a back cover so no label other then the one from the tube
(Mullard radiant Screen, long life television tube MW43-69)

Is this a reliable tube or one of the problematic sorts ?

[Stubble]

Photos from the back, is certainly look like the chasse from the TUG.68

[Peter.N.]

I don't remember a TUG 68 but certainly the earlier consoles were of the 'TUG' series. The chassis looks like a TV53 table model.

Peter

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The only thing confusing me is on the receiver view from the service information, it doesn’t show that big gold can.

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Ha, yes the service information covers the TV.63 & TV.66
Plus
The T.67, TUG.68 & 69 also the M.69

[mark pirate]

If That was the set on ebay, I was the person who informed the seller of it's correct identity, I think it has the back from an Ekco set.
Nice TV, they work well once restored, these sets always seem to have good CRT's. Lots of caps to change, but worth the effort.
Good luck with it.

Mark

[Peter.N.]

I cut my TV teeth on this chassis, we were Bush agents and sold many, they were reliable (for the time) especially the tuners as they were permeability tuned. They had a few odd faults but most were straightforward, don't think I ever had a LOPT fail.

Peter

[Stubble]

Hello Mark
Yes it was an eBay purchase, Hereford which is local for me, cheap too.

The set doses not have a back with it so that’s something to make during the restoration.

Hi Peter
Yes there dose seem to be a lot of caps to change, the chassis is very rusty on the upper sides and I intend to bring it inside for a few weeks to air in the warm before trying for first light.

I’m confused by the big gold can on the top of the receiver, I’m assuming it’s electrolytic which isn’t listed in the service information or shown on the chassis view, no mater I can check it our when the restoration begins. When will that be, I made a new years resolution not to start any new project till the current ones are finished (TV22, 1975 Hotpoint tumble dryer and Hoover 3110 washing machine), yes, what ever springs to mind as I found myself vacuuming it out yesterday, strictly for de-Arachnid treatment I never picked up a screwdriver once.

Cheers chaps for the positive identification

Lee

[mark pirate]

I have a Bush T57 in the roundtuit pile, Your chassis looks the same, usually the RF chassis is always rusty in these, nothing a good cleaning won't solve
I have had mine working, but the cabinet is pretty poor, I will start with the cabinet soon.

Mark

[HamishBoxer]

Back in the early 70,s i remember a Bush console loptx burning a house down.All that was left of the set was a small amount of melted glass and metal.

Failure big time.(Sprotborough Doncaster)

[Stubble]

Well I couldn’t leave it, just had to have a poke around on a bank holiday weekend.

First whipped out the receiver unit, before and after vacuuming, very rusty indeed.
I can see only 5 waxies that will require changing.

Got a lovely channel selector on this unit.

[Stubble]

Main chassis is in much better condition, before and after vacuuming.

Nothing that looks too major jumps out, the mains electrolytic is cooked and a resistor on the tube base is broken.
The EHT unit looks good so all seems very promising.

[mark pirate]

Be really careful when cleaning around the LOPT, it is all to easy to break the fine wires between the windings and tags.

Why Bush did not use their usual aluminium for both chassis is a mystery, I have never seen an RF chassis that is rust free!

The CRT should be fine, they seem to run forever, although I would be tempted to remove the LOPT and stick it in the airing cupboard for a few weeks, as it looks like your set was stored in very damp conditions for a long time.

Mark

[Lloyd 1985]

Looks a bit rusty!

I like the way the LOPT is mounted on these chassis, take off the 2 top caps to the PL and PY, remove 2 screws and the CRT anode cap and the whole thing comes out!

Lloyd.

[jay_oldstuff]

The chassis look no worse than the ones did in my TV62 that had an RF chassis just as rusty as yours and came back to life after recaping.

Jay

[Stubble]

Afternoon

Gone thought the resistors on the main deck today, total of 15 are way out of the stated tolerances 2 of which are O/C

21 waxies to change and possibly 7 electrolytic

The rubber wiring to the power socket has perished and requires replacing along with a new fixed mains cable.

Straightened out the tube socket, looks like it has been pushed up against a wall at some point, the contact’s all bent and one resistor broken off.

But I have a bigger problem to sort first, measured the resistance readings across the transformers
Sound output is spot on along with the sync and frame output, the line/EHT transformer has a big problem

Continuity on the primary winding but non on the EHT winding, noting reaching the anode of the EY86 at all.

So it needs rewinding before I can go any further and achieve first light, suppose I can turn my attentions to the cabinet in the meanwhile.

Any recommendations for some one who can rewind the EHT unit for me or would any one have a spare one kicking around?
Lee

[Heatercathodeshort]

Have a very close look at the start of the EHT overwind. This will be connected to the end of the primary winding, the top cap of the line output valve. You will probably discover that the very fine wire has rotted in the sleeving or has been damaged by cleaning. With care you can tin this fine wire and reconnect it with a short length of 5 amp fuse wire and new sleeving. It was a common fault in the 60's. Worth a look but be very carefull! John.

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Evening John

Had another look with the magnifier glass, I can see both windings, one slightly thicker gauge wire both seem ok and attached to the tag.

Managed to photo both ends with the glass up to the camera lens.

Just a thought I could de-solder the tag and re-make all three connections, keep the top cap and primary winding on one side of the twin tag and re-sleeve the EHT winding separately and solder onto the other side of that tag, I have nothing to lose by trying.

[Heatercathodeshort]

You need to check the wires in the actual sleeving. The thinner one is where the problem will be. I have never had a TV50/60 LOPT winding go O/C. J.

[Stubble]

Good morning chaps

De-soldered the windings from the line output valve top cap tag and gently removed the pair of wires, both where intact within the sleeving. Re-sleeved and re-made the solder joint with the same results, continuity on the primary but nothing on the EHT over winding.

Lee
Photographs taken with the use of a light magnifier glass.