Conversion of a 332F Bakelite Telephone.

[icarus2000]

Hi

I have bought a number of phones previously which I have converted, however, I have been having issues with a 332 telephone I purchased recently.

It looks to have been converted at some point. The original bell ringer has been removed and a twin 2000ohm set fitted instead, however, not at the rear of the screw in wiring terminal but with its own pair of connectors the same as are used on the headset and wall connector. Both wires from this are blue instead of the normal orange and green wires. I did not take any note, quite silly of me I know, of where the ringer connectors original sat before I set about removing all the wiring from the T connectors on the phone to clean it.

My issue is that I plugged the phone in once with the original wiring and wiring setup and it rang etc. I decided that I ought to check it and on removing the base found there to be no 3.3k resistor nor 205 rectifier. I obtained a matching cream wall cable (as the other one was grey and did not match the cream phone whatsoever) along with the said resistor and rectifier.

Having tried to wire the phone up correctly (or so I believe) I have done the following:

Insert strap T8 - T9
Insert strap T1 - T2
Red of line cord to T9
White of line cord to T1
Blue of line cord to T11
Green of line cord to T3
Remove strap T10 - T11
Remove strap T11 - T12
Insert a 3.3K ohm resistor between T11 and T12
Rectifier No. 205 (if needed) inserted between T6 & T5

Because the ringer was obviously no longer connected this is connected to T2 and T12 - however the phone works in all respects but it does not ring and on dialing there is quite some noise generated by the dialer moving back to its default position (the number dials fine however).

Would anyone be able to advise what the issue may be causing the above? I am assuming that I have wired something wrong but neither my 200 series nor 312 phones have these issues when I converted them.

Many thanks

To follow on from this the ringing mechanism appears to be a Bells 59D-1 unmounted type...

[russell_w_b]

Originally Posted by icarus2000

Hi

I have bought a number of phones previously which I have converted, however, I have been having issues with a 332 telephone I purchased recently.

Connect as shown here. If you're using 2000 Ohm bell bobbins, you won't need the resistor. Use a strap instead.

[icarus2000]

Hi

I have wired it exactly as specified in the above diagram and the ringer still does not sound, there appears to be no shorting, so I can only assume that the bobbins are no longer operational. I have also checked for metal filings and those are not present either.

I will either have to buy a replacement or get an external bell box, which I was planning at some point anyway.

If anyone has any other suggestions please feel free to make them, as it would be nice to get the ringer working anyway.

Many thanks

[russell_w_b]

Originally Posted by icarus2000

Hi

'I have wired it exactly as specified in the above diagram and the ringer still does not sound...'

Have you a multimeter that you can use to measure the d.c. resistance of the bell-bobbins from lead-end to lead-end?

Assuming you have, and a meaningful resistance is obtained for the two bobbins in series (1,000 Ohms for a 59A bell-motor; 4,000 Ohms for a bell-motor from an 87** series instrument; 2,000 Ohms for some export-model or magneto ringers with the same physical dimensions) then there is another possibility:

That the bobbins have been connected in series incorrectly, and the polarising magnetic fields cancel out. Looking at your bell-motor, ensure that the LH bobbin tags are connected together, or the RH bobbin tags are connected together, BUT NOT LH of one to RH of the other, or vice-versa.

The flying leads should be connected to either the LH tags or the RH tags, in other words, with the series connection between bobbins made on the remaining two tags.

[icarus2000]

Hi

They are wired correctly, i.e rh to rh or lh to lh (can't remember which but they are not in front of me at present). I do not have access to a multimeter, really should get one at some point, so I can not test the current at present.

There are two 2000ohm bobbins, so a 4000ohm unit. I will either have to get access to another unit to try that or access to a multimeter to any further.

Thanks for your help.

[russell_w_b]

You'll need a multimeter (or a rudimentary LV test-lamp) to check continuity of your bell / 'anti-tinkle' wire in your plug 'n' lead arrangement: the wire that connects T11 to pin 4 of your plug (which leads to pin 3 of your socket) - normally coloured blue.

It may be O/C. Checking a.c. volts between the blue wire (T11) and the white wire (T1) would be a 'nice-to-have' as well; 30 - 75V RMS, 400ms on-200ms off-400ms on, a break of 2 secs, then repeat cadence. An analogue meter is preferable here.