Ekco U29 - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

benjamin77 · 16th Jun 2009, 11:33 pm

Just got hold of another EKCO to add to my collection. Any one had the pleasure of reparing these ? From the look of it it seems as though they are good little sets.
Are there any common problems I could come accross.

Steve_P · 16th Jun 2009, 11:54 pm

The sheet is available up top there.

This is a short superhet, using an EBL31 - These are a little rare. AC/DC set, so the dropper can get a bit hot and might go. (R19 for the valves, R18 for the HT on the Ecko sheet.) The fuse F1 sometimes goes - replace and try again. Also F2 and F3 on the mains side.

If the cable is one with both leads to the plug the same, then change it and put the end that goes to earth via the dial light and the 37 Ohm to Neutral.

Otherwise, the usual problems.

Cheers,

Steve P.

yestertech · 17th Jun 2009, 9:52 am

Hi Ben

Nice little sets ! I recently sold mine.

Steve, I think you'll find the OP valve is PEN453DD. ( Probably just as rare ! )
Being a short super. make sure that the IFT internal caps are good, the EF39 is good and the IFT cores are spot on , so that you get as much IF gain as you can ( adj. on mine were way off ) otherwise it will be rather quiet.
The use of a CY31 rectifier usually means it takes an age to warm up.

They do run rather hot
Andy

benjamin77 · 17th Jun 2009, 10:03 am

Well having given it a good look over it will turn out to be a cracking little set. The case is undamged but the volume knob is missing

I just hope that all the valves test out to be ok as they seem to be rather costly to replace should they be duds....

I picked this up locally along with 2 Bush TR82 sets (1xC and 1xD) a Bush VHF61,Murphy U472,Ferranti U1015 and a Pye P115u PIPER. All are in fairly good condition and you would be supprised what I paid for them ....

benjamin77 · 18th Jun 2009, 8:26 pm

Having now removed the chassis from the case I can now see that I have a mystery to solve as well as a couple of questions...

I thought that just the On/Off/Volme knob was missing however it would seem that the shaft has been hacksawed clean off against the mounting nut of the pot..

Why would some one of done this as the rest of the chassis is definatly untouched,old waxies,resistors and correct valves all there so if the knobs grub screw was rusted on to the shaft and this was done to aid removal,why has nothing else been touched

The other thing is I cant find out what Ohm it is, there is nothing stamped on it and I cant find where it gives any details on the trader sheet and where to source one from....?

Steve_P · 18th Jun 2009, 8:45 pm

It's a 1 Megohm pot with a switch. Might be a bit tricky to get hold of - place an advert in Parts Wanted. R12 on the Ecko sheet.

Try RS/Farnell/Mapin etc.

Why was it done I hear you ask? Well, nobody knows. In Radio, as well as TV, there is an unknown person called 'The Phantom'. Why he does these things, well your guess is as good as mine.

Cheers,

Steve P.

benjamin77 · 18th Jun 2009, 9:17 pm

Thanks Steve, I have placed a wanted add ...Maplin have a replacement that I think will do but it would look out of place and I would like to keep the chassis looking as original as possible . If all else fails I guess I will have to bow down to the "phantoms" antics and face defeat.....

Steve_P · 18th Jun 2009, 9:20 pm

Not to this. Get a modern one if you need to and saw it down. Then get a knob (BVWS do, etc) and nobody will know.

Cheers,

Steve P.

benjamin77 · 18th Jun 2009, 10:30 pm

Well not one for being defeated easily I have sourced a couple of modern replacements but just want to double check if they would be suitable..

http://uk.farnell.com/lorlin/mdst-1-...tch/dp/1637189

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2208

Nickthedentist · 18th Jun 2009, 10:38 pm

The Maplin one looks the better of the two, but note that both are LINEAR whereas you really need a logarithmic one.

I think there are well-known botches that will help though

Nick.

KeithsTV · 18th Jun 2009, 10:47 pm

CPC have a 1M log with DPST switch in stock

http://cpc.farnell.com/omeg/ow20bu-b...-1m/dp/RE04386

Keith

benjamin77 · 21st Jun 2009, 1:53 pm

I Have now nearly finished re-capping the chassis removing all those horrid Hunts wax caps that leak all over...

I have noticed that a couple of the valve top wires look green and corroded under the insulation...is it possible to replace them and if so how and what would be the best way to do so.

Also I noticed that one of the valves top connection seems loose

Steve_P · 21st Jun 2009, 2:51 pm

Right - remove the valve from the set, coat the lower side of the top cap with Araldite and leave to set. Not the whole top cap, just the bottom end.

The leads may be OK - paintbrush the green away gently.

Cheers,

Steve P.

Boom · 21st Jun 2009, 2:55 pm

SNAP Benjamin! I just got one of these today also. It's semi working and like yours mine has loose valve caps which I have unsoldered and Araldited back on then resoldered.

How is the dial cord on yours Mine is snapped and I have never seen such a pig of a cord to fit. It seems the entire tuning gang has to be taken apart to fit a new one.

The tuning pointer is also missing on this one. The Trader sheet says that the makers supply a complete tuning unit to replace the dial cord which is probably bad news.

I'll persevere as it's a lovely looking set.

Dave

benjamin77 · 21st Jun 2009, 3:04 pm

Hi David

Your right they are a good looking set. The dial cord on mine seems fine although I will probably replace it as i have the things to bits. How did you go about replacing the valve caps....more details please because I have never dealt with valves that have top caps before and how are the top wires on yours mine look like they will need replacing

The guy who I bought mine from said it belonged to his mother and was working untill the late fifties, it had been in his attic since then so at a guess its been unused for 49 yrs

This is probably a good thing as less chance of some one having a tinker with it.

ColinB · 21st Jun 2009, 3:16 pm

Hello,

From memory The Radiophile did an article on these sets a few years back, and mentioned that there is an error in the trader sheet with regards to re-stringing the tuner.

I haven't got my copies to hand at the moment though, unfortunately.

I have one of these myself, from memory the "string" is actually a fine, flexible metal wire. I managed to avoid restringing mine, but had to make one or two adjustments, as there was not enough drag from the spindle to the cord to move the tuner.

I think I took the cowards way out and just stretched the spring, rather than shorten the cord

Stick with it, these are nice little radios, at any rate, I can't think of another Ekco with coloured bakelite that you could buy for a comparable price

Cheers,

Colin

Boom · 21st Jun 2009, 3:30 pm

Hi Benjamin. I just unsoldered the caps and they fell off. I then Araldited them back on and resoldered the wires. Taking the caps right off means the Aradlite gets right under, sticks firmly and also can't be seen. You can do the same with valve bases.

Colin. Yes I had a suspicion that it might be metalised wire due to the heat. I'm a bit stuck now as to whether I can restore the set to full working order because of this but it is ever so pretty nonetheless.

The back had a gaping hole in it too but I have enough on another old back to repair it.

benjamin77 · 21st Jun 2009, 7:16 pm

Re soldered the loose top cap with no problems and have replaced the speaker wires as again the insulation is crumbling away. I am going to have to replace the wires that go to and from the dropper and volume pot when this is replaced as all those wires are suffering from the same thing.

With regards to the top cap wires I have gently brushded away the green corrosion but again the insulation is missing in some places. Is it worth replacing them or should I just leave well alone ?

Boom · 21st Jun 2009, 9:27 pm

I just looked and I thunk you could take the screening cans off without disturbing the coils to replace the leads. It looks a very fiddly job though. Maybe it would be possible to crumble the old sleeving and slide a new one over the wires if you don't fancy taking the cans out?

This one has scrubbed up very well.

benjamin77 · 21st Jun 2009, 10:21 pm

I think that rather than removing the cans I will just slide some new sleeving over the old wires.

I noticed that yours has 2 SW bands on the scale glass where as mine has 1

Is yours a later model ?

Any how looks good

16th Jun 2009, 11:33 pm	#1
benjamin77 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, UK. Posts: 326	Ekco U29 Just got hold of another EKCO to add to my collection. Any one had the pleasure of reparing these ? From the look of it it seems as though they are good little sets. Are there any common problems I could come accross.

16th Jun 2009, 11:54 pm	#2
Steve_P Dekatron Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Bolton, Greater Manchester, UK. Posts: 6,644	Re: Ekco U29 The sheet is available up top there. This is a short superhet, using an EBL31 - These are a little rare. AC/DC set, so the dropper can get a bit hot and might go. (R19 for the valves, R18 for the HT on the Ecko sheet.) The fuse F1 sometimes goes - replace and try again. Also F2 and F3 on the mains side. If the cable is one with both leads to the plug the same, then change it and put the end that goes to earth via the dial light and the 37 Ohm to Neutral. Otherwise, the usual problems. Cheers, Steve P. __________________ If we've always had it, why is the Car Boot open? You're not sneaking another Old TV in are you...?

17th Jun 2009, 9:52 am	#3
yestertech Nonode Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Coulsdon, Surrey, UK. Posts: 2,135	Re: Ekco U29 Hi Ben Nice little sets ! I recently sold mine. Steve, I think you'll find the OP valve is PEN453DD. ( Probably just as rare ! ) Being a short super. make sure that the IFT internal caps are good, the EF39 is good and the IFT cores are spot on , so that you get as much IF gain as you can ( adj. on mine were way off ) otherwise it will be rather quiet. The use of a CY31 rectifier usually means it takes an age to warm up. They do run rather hot Andy

17th Jun 2009, 10:03 am	#4
benjamin77 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, UK. Posts: 326	Re: Ekco U29 Well having given it a good look over it will turn out to be a cracking little set. The case is undamged but the volume knob is missing I just hope that all the valves test out to be ok as they seem to be rather costly to replace should they be duds.... I picked this up locally along with 2 Bush TR82 sets (1xC and 1xD) a Bush VHF61,Murphy U472,Ferranti U1015 and a Pye P115u PIPER. All are in fairly good condition and you would be supprised what I paid for them ....

18th Jun 2009, 8:26 pm	#5
benjamin77 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, UK. Posts: 326	Re: Ekco U29 Having now removed the chassis from the case I can now see that I have a mystery to solve as well as a couple of questions... I thought that just the On/Off/Volme knob was missing however it would seem that the shaft has been hacksawed clean off against the mounting nut of the pot.. Why would some one of done this as the rest of the chassis is definatly untouched,old waxies,resistors and correct valves all there so if the knobs grub screw was rusted on to the shaft and this was done to aid removal,why has nothing else been touched The other thing is I cant find out what Ohm it is, there is nothing stamped on it and I cant find where it gives any details on the trader sheet and where to source one from....?

18th Jun 2009, 8:45 pm	#6
Steve_P Dekatron Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Bolton, Greater Manchester, UK. Posts: 6,644	Re: Ekco U29 It's a 1 Megohm pot with a switch. Might be a bit tricky to get hold of - place an advert in Parts Wanted. R12 on the Ecko sheet. Try RS/Farnell/Mapin etc. Why was it done I hear you ask? Well, nobody knows. In Radio, as well as TV, there is an unknown person called 'The Phantom'. Why he does these things, well your guess is as good as mine. Cheers, Steve P. __________________ If we've always had it, why is the Car Boot open? You're not sneaking another Old TV in are you...?

18th Jun 2009, 9:17 pm	#7
benjamin77 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, UK. Posts: 326	Re: Ekco U29 Thanks Steve, I have placed a wanted add ...Maplin have a replacement that I think will do but it would look out of place and I would like to keep the chassis looking as original as possible . If all else fails I guess I will have to bow down to the "phantoms" antics and face defeat.....

18th Jun 2009, 9:20 pm	#8
Steve_P Dekatron Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Bolton, Greater Manchester, UK. Posts: 6,644	Re: Ekco U29 Not to this. Get a modern one if you need to and saw it down. Then get a knob (BVWS do, etc) and nobody will know. Cheers, Steve P. __________________ If we've always had it, why is the Car Boot open? You're not sneaking another Old TV in are you...?

18th Jun 2009, 10:30 pm	#9
benjamin77 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, UK. Posts: 326	Re: Ekco U29 Well not one for being defeated easily I have sourced a couple of modern replacements but just want to double check if they would be suitable.. http://uk.farnell.com/lorlin/mdst-1-...tch/dp/1637189 http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2208

18th Jun 2009, 10:38 pm	#10
Nickthedentist Dekatron Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Oxford, UK. Posts: 17,861	Re: Ekco U29 The Maplin one looks the better of the two, but note that both are LINEAR whereas you really need a logarithmic one. I think there are well-known botches that will help though Nick.

18th Jun 2009, 10:47 pm	#11
KeithsTV Nonode Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: South Bradford, West Yorkshire, UK. Posts: 2,573	Re: Ekco U29 CPC have a 1M log with DPST switch in stock http://cpc.farnell.com/omeg/ow20bu-b...-1m/dp/RE04386 Keith

21st Jun 2009, 1:53 pm	#12
benjamin77 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, UK. Posts: 326	Re: Ekco U29 I Have now nearly finished re-capping the chassis removing all those horrid Hunts wax caps that leak all over... I have noticed that a couple of the valve top wires look green and corroded under the insulation...is it possible to replace them and if so how and what would be the best way to do so. Also I noticed that one of the valves top connection seems loose

21st Jun 2009, 2:51 pm	#13
Steve_P Dekatron Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Bolton, Greater Manchester, UK. Posts: 6,644	Re: Ekco U29 Right - remove the valve from the set, coat the lower side of the top cap with Araldite and leave to set. Not the whole top cap, just the bottom end. The leads may be OK - paintbrush the green away gently. Cheers, Steve P. __________________ If we've always had it, why is the Car Boot open? You're not sneaking another Old TV in are you...?

21st Jun 2009, 2:55 pm	#14
Boom Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Westbury, Wiltshire, UK. Posts: 2,451	Re: Ekco U29 SNAP Benjamin! I just got one of these today also. It's semi working and like yours mine has loose valve caps which I have unsoldered and Araldited back on then resoldered. How is the dial cord on yours Mine is snapped and I have never seen such a pig of a cord to fit. It seems the entire tuning gang has to be taken apart to fit a new one. The tuning pointer is also missing on this one. The Trader sheet says that the makers supply a complete tuning unit to replace the dial cord which is probably bad news. I'll persevere as it's a lovely looking set. Dave

21st Jun 2009, 3:04 pm	#15
benjamin77 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, UK. Posts: 326	Re: Ekco U29 Hi David Your right they are a good looking set. The dial cord on mine seems fine although I will probably replace it as i have the things to bits. How did you go about replacing the valve caps....more details please because I have never dealt with valves that have top caps before and how are the top wires on yours mine look like they will need replacing The guy who I bought mine from said it belonged to his mother and was working untill the late fifties, it had been in his attic since then so at a guess its been unused for 49 yrs This is probably a good thing as less chance of some one having a tinker with it.

21st Jun 2009, 3:16 pm	#16
ColinB Heptode Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Newton Abbot, Devon, UK. Posts: 761	Re: Ekco U29 Hello, From memory The Radiophile did an article on these sets a few years back, and mentioned that there is an error in the trader sheet with regards to re-stringing the tuner. I haven't got my copies to hand at the moment though, unfortunately. I have one of these myself, from memory the "string" is actually a fine, flexible metal wire. I managed to avoid restringing mine, but had to make one or two adjustments, as there was not enough drag from the spindle to the cord to move the tuner. I think I took the cowards way out and just stretched the spring, rather than shorten the cord Stick with it, these are nice little radios, at any rate, I can't think of another Ekco with coloured bakelite that you could buy for a comparable price Cheers, Colin

21st Jun 2009, 3:30 pm	#17
Boom Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Westbury, Wiltshire, UK. Posts: 2,451	Re: Ekco U29 Hi Benjamin. I just unsoldered the caps and they fell off. I then Araldited them back on and resoldered the wires. Taking the caps right off means the Aradlite gets right under, sticks firmly and also can't be seen. You can do the same with valve bases. Colin. Yes I had a suspicion that it might be metalised wire due to the heat. I'm a bit stuck now as to whether I can restore the set to full working order because of this but it is ever so pretty nonetheless. The back had a gaping hole in it too but I have enough on another old back to repair it.

21st Jun 2009, 7:16 pm	#18
benjamin77 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, UK. Posts: 326	Re: Ekco U29 Re soldered the loose top cap with no problems and have replaced the speaker wires as again the insulation is crumbling away. I am going to have to replace the wires that go to and from the dropper and volume pot when this is replaced as all those wires are suffering from the same thing. With regards to the top cap wires I have gently brushded away the green corrosion but again the insulation is missing in some places. Is it worth replacing them or should I just leave well alone ?

21st Jun 2009, 9:27 pm	#19
Boom Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Westbury, Wiltshire, UK. Posts: 2,451	Re: Ekco U29 I just looked and I thunk you could take the screening cans off without disturbing the coils to replace the leads. It looks a very fiddly job though. Maybe it would be possible to crumble the old sleeving and slide a new one over the wires if you don't fancy taking the cans out? This one has scrubbed up very well. Attached Thumbnails

21st Jun 2009, 10:21 pm	#20
benjamin77 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, UK. Posts: 326	Re: Ekco U29 I think that rather than removing the cans I will just slide some new sleeving over the old wires. I noticed that yours has 2 SW bands on the scale glass where as mine has 1 Is yours a later model ? Any how looks good