Sony BVM 2010P - Operational hours

[Retrotechie]

Why do you need RGB output ? Surely, it’s RGB input you need, taking the RGB output from your games console.
The RGB output connectors on the back of the BVM-2010p, are decoder out, which means they are decoded from the composite input. The optional BF board is needed to drive these connectors, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a monitor with this option fitted.

They really do weigh a ton, certainly more than the Ikegamis.

[mhennessy]

Apologies - I might have mislead you.

It did seem unlikely that RGB input was an option - as that sticker implies - so after letting that thought play on my mind for a while, I've just been studying my paper copy of the service manual (for the 14" version, but close enough). Much easier than the PDF

As far as I can see, the optional BF card is to provide RGB outputs, not inputs. The RGB inputs travel via the QB rear panel assembly and on to the BA card - which is present and correct in your case. The BA card also deals with composite inputs too.

Just to be 100% sure, I dug out some pictures of my BVM-2015P, and can confirm that there is no BF card in mine. I have definitely used mine with RGB signals.

That sticker indicates that one of several different cards could go into those slots. The BF card, when present, is only allowed in B3. But several other types could go there instead.

Incidentally, my monitor has exactly the same cards that yours does. BN and BP are not covered by the manual, but it's interesting that they are a stack of 3 PCBs joined together. They form a BKM-2056 auto-setup adaptor, which uses a probe that plugs into the front of the monitor. Given the likelihood of finding one of those probes is so very low, I'm tempted to unplug mine to save a bit of load on the power supply.

Anyway, that's good news, hopefully. Sorry again to have mislead you.

Mark


Edit: post crossed with Retrotechie again. As he says, you almost certainly won't need RGB outputs.

[red16v]

Firstly, I would get your family friend to take out L4 and test it. If it is u/s there is very little point in going any further unless you can get a replacement. As ive previously said, I would be very surprised if Sony could supply you with one - and if they could you might need some sort of business account with them?

If you or your family friend decide to go further then I would take out all the components around the damaged area and see what’s what. I’ve repaired quite a few of these damaged pcbs but it is not for the faint hearted and I had the professional kit to do it.

[coops375]

Right so now that I know that it accepts RGB I'll focus on the fact that it doesn't work.

I've marked all the caps with a red line which includes the following:

****************/g3QhTK

0.47uf 50v x1
1000uf 16v x1
1000uf 25v x2
100uf 160v x2
100uf 16v x2
10uf 16v x4
1uf 25v x1
1uf 50v x1
1uf 5v x1
2200uf 25v x2
4.7uf 16v x1
470uf 25v x3
47uf 200v x2
47uf 25v x1
560uf 200v x1

I'll pass on the information regarding the L4 inductor. (Tracks look damaged from what I can see)

I'd be gutted if it wasn't reparable but that's the risk I guess with 30 year old equipment.

Are there any other models/devices that contain the same L4 inductor? I could potentially look out for broken equipment on ebay if not repairable.

[red16v]

Have you included the two caps by TP4? - they don't look like you’ve marked them?

As for L4, it will have a part number which you can get from the manual. I have a feeling the complete PSU crate may have been used in several models but I can’t remember which after all this time (sorry).

Edited to add, I see now the Sony part number is written on the inductor itself and that it is used in other places on the board, although in my personal experience it was only L4 that failed.

[coops375]

BVM operational! (I think)

PSU successfully repaired with the following:

- tracks cleaned near capacitor leak
- 4 capacitors removed and replaced with stand-offs
- L4 inductor tested (fine) bridged with small wire to track as drilled out whole cut the connection.
- Drilled out burnt area

I plan to replace the other electrolytic capacitors and clean the whole PCB in the coming weeks, as the PCB tracks are black in places with contaminants. (this I will do myself)

When powered up the OVER LOAD light comes on briefly then goes off. The Manual light then stays on. Is this a concern?

There is also a small line visible when powered up with nothing plugged in.

I tried a couple of the switches, such as the cross-hatch switch but nothing is displayed on the screen. Is there a button combination needed or is this also faulty? There is a green PAL light displayed so it's receiving power.

[coops375]

Cross hatch switch is working. However, when the buttons on the front R, G, B are all pushed in no image is shown. To show the image I've had to only select one or two colours.

****************/jg0xLz (image shows Sega megadrive plugged in with Sonic)

The image is also crazy bad, with sync all over the place.

[coops375]

Sync issue fixed. Didn't have the sync cable plugged in.

****************/ih0KYK

Issue with picture not showing when all rbg buttons pushed remains.

[coops375]

Update - colours are fine. You don't push the buttons in, you leave them out. I guess I was a little excited that it actually powered up and just started pushing buttons.

Picture isn't centered or full screen so just have to work on those things.

[red16v]

Well done on sorting out the PSU. The answer to your questions (the 'manual' button' etc & picture size not being quite correct' are all answered in the first few pages of the manual that you were pointed at earlier in the thread.

Given it's age and the fact that the psu had 'the' standard fault, its likely your monitor will have other standard faults (It probably wouldn't auto white balance if you got your hands on a probe) - but these will not affect your enjoyment of the monitor. Again, well done on getting the psu working - do change those other capacitors.

[Refugee]

Some of these monitors are under-scanned by default.
I have a later PVM model that I have been using for testing DVD players.
The screen size is clearly the displayed picture size and not the tube envelope size like we see on domestic sets.
I have never taken the back off it and have settled tor a manual downloaded from the web to see what is inside it.

[mhennessy]

Most - virtually all - broadcast monitors have an underscan/overscan switch. This one is no exception.

Depending on where it is used, the operator might well need to check what people at home are likely to see - especially for graphics, etc. Some monitors have an option to turn on "safe area" markers for that purpose. Some people just put tape on the screen...

Outside of broadcast, the underscan/overscan switch can be reused as a 4:3 or 16:9 switch if the monitor is old enough to not come with that facility already. The height and width is usually separately adjustable in each mode, and there's often enough range on the presets to get the height down sufficiently for 16:9 working (if not, it's usually easy to change a resistor value to achieve that).

Underscan is becoming moot in these non-CRT days, of course...

[coops375]

Loaded up 240p test suite running on a nintendo wii. (says it's 240p when it's running not 480i like it does in the settings on the will so figured it was okay)

Test grid lines are as wonky as they come

I've read parts of the manual and tweaked the convergence as well as a few other things, but nothing impacts the straightness of the lines.

It doesn't impact a game too much but thought i'd try to get it at least accurate.
Does this indicate a problem with the monitor, due to it's age and not something that can be fixed?

Also is it just the one 75 ohm BNC termination connector I need? (don't have one yet so I guess that could be screwing with the image.)

****************/fp5WyU

[mhennessy]

A grade 1 monitor is like a test instrument.

That means that it will do nothing at all to hide imperfections in the input signal. Unlike a domestic TV set, for example, which will be designed to cope with weak signal conditions and timebase instability (from domestic VCRs, for example).

When I first started working in broadcast, I remember being surprised at how intolerant broadcast monitors were. But I quickly realised that they had to be; broadcasters needed to be alerted to problems long before people at home noticed them.

So while I can't be 100% certain from this distance, I would suspect that the problems you're seeing are with the source, not the monitor. But if you had the same symptoms from more than one source, then yes, I might start to consider that the monitor might be the common factor.

Every input must be terminated with 75 ohms. With this specific monitor, that means you have to provide the termination manually, for every signal. So if you are sending the monitor a composite signal, one termination is fine. But for RGB, you'll need 4 terminators.

[coops375]

That's another 3 terminators I need then

To eliminate problems with input signals I've used the test grid that's built into the BVM.

This time, no wonky lines with everything looking much better.

I can setup the convergence to a level that I'm happy with, the only think I'm not sure about is the location of the test gird. For example should the full test grid be visible, as the left side pattern doesn't have the same layout as the right.
****************/gpVNOU

Oh, also I think I read in the manual that it's best to wait 20-30 mins after the monitor has been powered on for any modifications.

I'm thinking about dismantling it too so I can remove some of the dust/grime that's inside. I'll be asking someone to discharge it for me first though.

[julie_m]

Originally Posted by coops375

That's another 3 terminators I need then

Yes, but you can make them yourself You just need a BNC plug and a 75Ω resistor. Metal film will be fine, as it is only required to work up to a few MHz. Crimp or solder the resistor to the pin, leaving the lead between them as short as possible but keeping the other lead to use as a handle. Offer the pin into the plug body and fill the interior space with epoxy resin or hot melt adhesive. When set, bend the other lead of the resistor down and solder it to the outside of the plug.

Of course, if someone is selling packs of 10 online cheaply enough, there's no reason to make your own.

Originally Posted by coops375

Oh, also I think I read in the manual that it's best to wait 20-30 mins after the monitor has been powered on for any modifications.

That is sensible advice; component values can be affected by temperature, and it might take 20 minutes or so for the set to reach thermal equilibrium with its surroundings. Once heat is being removed by the surrounding air as fast as it is being supplied by the electronics, the temperature will remain stable; and therefore, so will the circuit parameters. If you set an adjustment right with the monitor cold, then thermal drift might cause it to be wrong in the opposite direction than before when the monitor warms up.

Originally Posted by coops375

I'm thinking about dismantling it too so I can remove some of the dust/grime that's inside. I'll be asking someone to discharge it for me first though.

Both good ideas. Cleaning rarely hurts a set, and can help psychologically with thinking of it as "all finished and ready". And be sure to watch how they discharge it, so you have an idea how to go about it yourself in future if you ever need to (or, absit omen, how not to do it )

[red16v]

Originally Posted by coops375

I'm thinking about dismantling it too so I can remove some of the dust/grime that's inside. I'll be asking someone to discharge it for me first though.

We used to use compressed air, if you decide to go down that route make sure you do it outside and wear a protective mask.

[coops375]

Couple of pics from the PSU repair. ( a little rough but seems to do the job)

****************/csqQyU
****************/iuiOk9
****************/cHbXdU

He advised that I should get PCB lacquer for the copper traces.

[juansolo]

I thought I'd chime in as I'm both local and am having am currently having a fettle of the same model BVM. On power up the top of the screen wobbles for a short period of time until it warms up. It appears the sync is a little unstable for a time also while cold. It settles after a time and gives a phenomenal picture once it has settled.

So we decided to pull the caps and once again, the yellow ones in the PSU have leaked (see attached photo). I'll also pull the diode packs with the corroded legs and clean/replace those while I'm at it.

Also it's just up the road in Emley, bob me a PM if you fancy popping over to check it out. It's being used with a load of consoles, so probably the sort of thing you'd be interested in.

[juansolo]

It's back together now and it hasn't sorted the wobble out. The symptoms are really odd. On first power up the screen shakes, however if you pull the drawer half out it stops. Also after 15mins or so, the shake disappears regardless of the drawer being in or out. The picture otherwise is perfect.