Restoration novice. Philips B3G63A.

[Sideband]

Don't expect earth-shattering volume from this. It is quite normal for a radio of this type to distort when turned up really loud. The output transformer is not particularly large (neither is the speaker) and will overload. That said, you should have around 3 watts of audio which is LOUD before you get severe distortion. I used to have one of these...it sounded good and was more than loud enough for the average room before distortion set in. It's only a single-ended EL84 and wasn't ever designed as Hi fi.

[LyntonP]

Originally Posted by Nuvistor

Well done, nearly there, find the bad connection then just the distortion.

The small FM chassis is supported on four bolts which have rubber grommets. Not sure why because the top of the FM chassis has thin copper strips which make contact with the main chassis. The grommets have perished so maybe the board is hanging too low and the copper strips are not making a good connection. I will make some new grommets and clean the connecting surfaces in order to make good contact.
The FM tuning string definitely needs replacing as it is slipping badly. I do have (don't ask why) some post mortem string! It is a little thinner than the current string but it does not stretch and is impossible to snap without scissors or a knife. I may give this a go since the Philips manual shows the exact lengths needed.
Also today I was given a signal generator from another member on this forum. No whistles or bells but would be ok for an AM alignment.
Not sure which direction to take with the distortion problem but I will continue to check resistor values etc.
Thanks to everyone for all the help
Lynton

P.S. Are we allowed to mention suppliers? I had superb service from a company in London, but not sure if I can mention their name?

[LyntonP]

Gave the cabinet a good wash and polish, made new grommets for the FM board, and was refitting the FM pointer when the drive cord snapped! Replaced it with the aforementioned postmortem string and it works a treat!
Put it all back in the cabinet until the festive madness is all over.
I think that there had been a previous problem with the FM drive since the tuning wheel on the variable capacitor was slipping. All tightened up now. After Christmas the chassis needs a good scrub and I have been looking for Ajax scouring powder but none to be found? What do other members use for this process?
The valve sockets need a good clean too but having read the thread on this subject on the forum I am still a little unsure of the best method?

[Sideband]

It isn't a good idea to squirt switchcleaner into valve sockets. It tends to attract dust which is counter-productive. The better method is to remove the valves and apply switchcleaner to the pins...only a dribble around the pins....some people like to squirt an amount of cleaner into a small lid like a bottle top and then either dip the pins in that or apply with a cocktail stick or matchstick. Either way you do it, once the pins are wet just re-insert the valve and waggle it gently. That should be more than sufficient to clean a crackly holder.

[Nuvistor]

How dirty is the chassis, unless very dirty I have tended to leave. Post a couple of photos may help with advice, unless the chassis is rusty I would use anything abrasive.
.

[DonaldStott]

I always like to clean the chassis whenever possible - even though it's going back in the case it's gives me a feeling of a job well done.

Others will disagree of course and see this as unnecessary, time consuming and not contributing to the renovation/restoration.

I tend to use Autosol Metal Polish which is widely available from the usual sources.

[LyntonP]

Originally Posted by DonaldStott

I always like to clean the chassis whenever possible - even though it's going back in the case it's gives me a feeling of a job well done.
I tend to use Autosol Metal Polish which is widely available from the usual sources.

I have Autosol and brasso etc but I saw a video on Utube using Vim and the results were outstanding. Just can’t find any?

Originally Posted by Nuvistor

How dirty is the chassis, unless very dirty I have tended to leave. Post a couple of photos may help with advice, unless the chassis is rusty I would use anything abrasive.

Photo of chassis
Lynton

[LyntonP]

The top of the FM board is quite rusty. The Americans use Naval Jelly but I don’t think we have that over here.

Originally Posted by Sideband

It isn't a good idea to squirt switchcleaner into valve sockets. It tends to attract dust which is counter-productive. The better method is to remove the valves and apply switchcleaner to the pins...only a dribble around the pins....some people like to squirt an amount of cleaner into a small lid like a bottle top and then either dip the pins in that or apply with a cocktail stick or matchstick. Either way you do it, once the pins are wet just re-insert the valve and waggle it gently. That should be more than sufficient to clean a crackly holder.

Great advice. I think this is the way to go.
Lynton

[Nuvistor]

Solvent (IPA?) and cotton buds on the dirty parts of the chassis to get rid of the grime. Various treatments for the rust, a quick U.K. web search reveals a few.

Whatever solvent or rust remover, keep it away from the electronics, could melt plastic, damage components.

[Nuvistor]

What make of valve holders are they? McMurdo ones are know for the socket inserts breaking, the inserts are shaped like tuning fork and the legs break.

Hopefully they are not and cleaning will suffice.

[Ambientnoise]

I am fairly sure that “naval jelly” is a phosphoric acid based converter such as Jenolite. One tip which I saw here was to treat surface rust by rubbing in a light wax or oil with a nylon scourer, then buffing off.

[Aerodyne]

If rust is at all advanced, a stronger abrasive than vim will be needed. Vim is/was an abrasive based upon pumice powder, I believe.Pumice is a natural abrasive made from a form of volcanic rock. It can be obtained is varying grit grades (I believe!) and is sold by artists suppliers and furniture restorers suppliers.
I used to use it wet -water, of course - as an apprentice in the printing trade, cleaning and degreasing printing plates before electroplating them.

I too understand that Naval Jelly is much the same as Jenolite. phosphoric acid is a method of chemically converting rust. Doesn't work by abrasion, but can be aided by using wire wool as an applicator. Stout thick rubber gloves recommended as it isn't nice to have fine strands of acid coated wire wool under the skin of the fingertips.

Tony

[LyntonP]

Thought you may like to see a couple of photos of the radio back in its case.
Lynton

[crackle]

Very nice.

Mike

[Nuvistor]

Looks good, sit back and enjoy using the radio.

[Aerodyne]

Smart looking receiver, Lynton. Looks like you've started a new hobby which may prove long lasting.

Tony

[LyntonP]

Managed to find some time to work on the radio today. Made an fm dipole for FM, and connected the G5RV up for medium and long wave. Cleaned the valve pins, and removed some more of the dust from the chassis. None of the valves now crackle when wiggled around so at least that was successful. Fm tunes fine across the scale but there is a problem with LW and MW. If I tune upwards on long wave just as I reach Radio 4 around 1500 meters the radio goes silent. If I switch to MW it does exactly the same thing at the same tuning needle position? The tuning capacitor looks ok but I gave it a gentle clean with some air in case of any trapped dust. This had no effect. I tuned slightly into the ‘dead’ section and gently tapped a few areas of the radio. Tapping the underside of the switches resulted in a slight crackle. So I cleaned the switches again so that tapping them does not produce any noise. However the set is still dead when tuned above the aforementioned wavelength. It is still fine on other parts of the bands. Any suggestions?
Lynton

[Nuvistor]

Does the set work with the capacitor vanes open, I.e lowest capacity and the fault appears when it gets to a partially closed position, if so then it does appear to be the vanes shorting.

[cathoderay57]

Disconnect from mains. Temporarily unsolder the wires from the 2 stator sections of the tuning capacitor (the rotors are usually connected to chassis so you don't need to disconnect those). Then put a multimeter continuity tester (preferably one with the beeper) with one probe on the stator contact and the other on chassis (one section of the tuning capacitor at a time). As you rotate the tuning dial you should hear the beep and thus find the point where the vanes are shorting. It is fiddly but you should be able to carefully bend the offending vanes to remove the short. Good eyesight and a bright lamp will help. Cheers, Jerry

[LyntonP]

Originally Posted by Nuvistor

Does the set work with the capacitor vanes open, I.e lowest capacity and the fault appears when it gets to a partially closed position, if so then it does appear to be the vanes shorting.

The fault occurs when the plates are partially meshed.

I cannot see any touching of the plates but the gaps are so small that even with a light behind the vanes nothing is obvious. Bit cold in the shed tonight, so I will investigate tomorrow.
Lynton