How to cut holes for speakers?

[Radio Wrangler]

Care is certainly needed. most routers also have switches which stay on, so loss of grip leaves a roaring power tool on the loose. You have to be organised about how you set-up and use it. My big router is about a three horsepower job and it did the kitchen work mounted in a table. It's also logged up a few kilometres of tongue-and-grooving extra heavy floor boards.

For the speaker hole a small quarter-inch collet machine is fine and is a lot easier to handle as well as a lot cheaper.

For a jig-saw I also have some tight radius blades which have an almost triangular cross-section, narrowing to the back for tight turns. They are less stable on straight cuts, though.

David

[Diabolical Artificer]

Router is best as others have said.

Jigsaw, but with the right blade. I've always found cutting small diameter or to honest any holes with a jigsaw difficult. It's hard to get a really accurate hole. Plywood is a *** to cut at the best of times.

Before we had routers, jigsaws etc, I used to cut holes with a drill, by drilling lots of holes around the circumferance, then joining them up. Clean off the rubbish with a chisel and use sand/wet/dry paper on a former of the right diameter to clean and smooth the hole. This method can be time consuming, but you get a very neat finish. I still use this method to cut holes for odd shaped holes, say for rectangular switches.

Andy

[mhennessy]

My first thought was also to use a router, but didn't suggest it initially on the assumption you didn't want to spend too much on tools. But now, I'll add my voice to the "buy a router" crowd

If it helps, I have a step by step guide to this with pictures on this page - about half way down: http://www.markhennessy.co.uk/audax/construction.htm

That project was my first real use of the router, and no major hiccups occurred. My router is only 1/4", 900W, but I spent a bit more to get a Bosch "blue", as it felt a bit safer and easier to control than the cheap ones (back then, soft-start wasn't standard!). Adjustments are easier and more repeatable on the more expensive models, but cheaper models are a lot better than they used to be, and if you start with one, you can always upgrade later and mount the cheap one in a table (lots of DIY designs out there).

For the cutters, I use a mixture of cheap and premium models. I buy the cheap ones in the sales, and regard them as disposable - plus you can experiment with the decorative types. After a while, you realise that you only need a small handful for most use, so then you can buy a small number of the nice types from the recognised names.

The secret to routing is making jigs - there are numerous good books and websites out there. It's a great tool - just remember your eye and ear protection!

All the best,

Mark

[yesnaby]

Hello,

Finished at last!

As I only had a jigsaw, I used that. But I cannot say I was happy with the accuracy of the holes. In this case it does not matter as they are all covered by trims.

(I had to include speakers as there was no easy way to couple the sat nav to the car's internal speakers. The other speaker is at the back. The dimensions of the box were critical as the sat nav had to be high enough to be read and the box small enough to fit in the passenger footwell. Probably it would be best to restrain it somehow ....)

Michael

[yesnaby]

Hello,

Very late update on this.

I found the cabinet was far too big, back to square one! Now making smaller cabinet with smaller speakers.

So, what would be best for cutting 62 mm diameter holes through Formica-covered 10 mm plywood? I've seen the usual circular serrated 'hole saws' but also Forstner bits in this size.

Any tips appreciated.

Michael

[yesnaby]

Hello again,

Having re-read all the posts, perhaps I should 'take the plunge' and get a router!

Michael

[Oldcodger]

I'd say if you can get a hole saw in the size,use it, but I've cut curves with a jig saw using a bit of string as guide. Can't see why it wouldn't do for a circle.

[mhennessy]

I'd say that with a hole of that size, a bit of string would be rather imprecise. You'd be better off doing it freehand, frankly. At least the loudspeaker here is front-mounted, I believe, which hides a multitude of sins.

If you're thinking about using a hole saw, they exist at that size, but by definition, they are a bit of a "one trick pony". It's not so bad if you can get one as part of a set that contains lots of other useful sizes - I have a few, and quite like them for "DIY-grade" jobs. A router will give much better results once you've sorted the jig, and will have so many other potential uses in the future. But the upfront cost is higher...

[G4XWDJim]

Hole saws work well providing that once you've drilled the pilot hole, usually 1\4" you swap the drill for a piece of plain 1\4" diameter steel rod which becomes a much more accurate and wobble free bearing for the cutter.

Jim

[David G4EBT]

Originally Posted by yesnaby

Having re-read all the posts, perhaps I should 'take the plunge' and get a router!

A cheap DIY router is fine for such jobs.

If ever you need to cut a hole through thick timber or to rout out a deep slot for a housing, it's kinder on the router do it in more than one pass. Whatever the routing task, whenever you can, it's much better to make a simple jig because routers can be fearsome tools used freehand, though of course that can't be avoided when putting a bead on the edge of a panel say.

A circle cutting jig for cutting circles of varying diameters can be simply and quickly made. There are lots of videos on youtube - the one at the link below for example, (if you can tolerate the southern drawl!. No need to sit through the whole thing to get an idea of what's involved). If you only want a circle jig for a one-off job, you can just make it for specific diameters, or you can make one that's adjustable for other future projects:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSf4eMgGHWo

[yesnaby]

Hello,

I now have my first router (Bosch 1400) and have been playing with it!

Eventually I'm going to try making Ron Fox's small circle cutting guide as mentioned in post #11. I have some 10 mm thick perspex. But the guide has a 6 mm steel rod inserted into the perspex, just wondering if a tight fit would hold it or is there some other way to fix it securely?

All this is very new to me ....

Michael

[Radio Wrangler]

Trend published some how-to booklets about routers. They are pretty much the main manufacturer of good quality router cutters and their publications are good, clear, and helpful.

There are many router use videos on youtube though the quality varies from a master at work down to just plain lethal.

There will probably be a circle attachment available for your machine if you don't want to make one.

epoxy adhesive would fix a rod into a hole drilled in perspex. Superglues can set before you've got the thing pushed home.

One ploy with your first router is to buy a cheap boxed set of chinese cutters. They won't last terribly long, but they'll do most jobs. If you wear any out, then those are the ones you use a lot, so replace them with professional quality ones.

DIY sheds will sell you Bosch branded cutters but they are a bit expensive. Find out where your local tradesmen go to buy their tools. Trend is the top brand. Good but you pay for it. Freud is another brand you'll come across and I've found them to be fully satisfactory and better priced. Bosch's own stuff is usually good and might be better priced in soe tools shops than in the DIT sheds.

If you're building boxes like the one shown and then veneering them, then a veneer/laminate cutter witha guide bearing will make you wonder how you lived without one.

David

[maninashed]

For 62mm, and similar small sizes, use a hole saw, much cheaper and easier than a router, and you don't need a template. Starrett are a quality product. Contractors use them for fitting ceiling downlighters etc, (similar size) and I'd like to see someone routering a ceiling!
Bill

[yesnaby]

Hello,

Yes, I was very tempted by a 62 mm hole saw, but I did not fancy it in my hand-held drill! I don't have a drill stand (that is next on the list ...). But as I also have to cut a 7x4 inch hole I thought a router would be better. At the moment this project is held up by the problem of finding small pieces of Formica in a dark wood colour.

Thanks.

Michael

[mike_newcomb]

Hi Guys, it seems to me all you youngsters immediately think Power Tools.

Whereas us Oldies remember days before electricity.

We still use this tool today, with a Hand Brace, and have cut many speaker holes with it:-

http://www.****.co.uk/itm/Adjustable...-/200899278201

For a tidy hole, either clamp sheet to be cut on top of a thicker piece of wood, or start at the rear, go in a little, then complete hole from the front.

Regards - Mike

[yesnaby]

Mike,

The link did not work, but it made my day being called a youngster! (Still remember chalk on slate at infants school.)

Michael

[mike_newcomb]

Hi Michael, substitute the **** with the name of a well known online auction and the link will work.

For historical reasons this site does not like reference to the online auction, due to problems in the past.

I too remember the chalk and individual slate boards. In the Winter we tried to sit nearest the coal fire, otherwise our hands shook so much we could not write. Those were the days!

Regards - Mike

[Nickthedentist]

But you ARE allowed to say eBay - you don't have to use euphemisms!

A good (electric) jigsaw is what I'd use. You can get excellent results very rapidly without much practice.

Nick.

[AC/HL]

A reminder if needed: https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...ad.php?t=36144

[mole42uk]

Originally Posted by Radio Wrangler

Routers are life-changing tools. You find all sorts of things you couldn't do before. I started with the speakers and wound up making a full kitchen... all the stile and rail doors included.

Now you're just showing off.

I went to B&Q for my kitchen. But I did assemble it properly.