Bush MB60 bezel removal

[60 oldjohn]

The set is tidy except for the brass bezel around the tuning dial which I would like to remove to clean. I suspect it has wire bent over inside the case. Meaning the chassis will have to be removed to straighten them, risking breaking the perspex tuning dial. Is this correct? John.

[Colin]

It's been a while since I did my MB60 but I think you're correct. You will need to remove the dial and then the chassis to gain access. Removing the brass ring is fairly easy but you'll need to take care with the brass wire fittings. I think if you did break one it would be fairly easy to invisibly solder on a replacement.

[Nickthedentist]

I presume you're already aware of the usual methods of removing the perspex dial/knob, i.e. string (avoiding the pointer!) or a modified sink plunger. Minimal breakage risk if you're thoughtful.

Nick.

[Robert Darwent]

Originally Posted by Colin

...Removing the brass ring is fairly easy but you'll need to take care with the brass wire fittings.

You must have been lucky Colin, in my experience its always been quite a struggle!

The metal ring is secured to the plastic case by three flat tags that are twisted a couple of times and then glued over. Its very difficult to untwist them even with very thin nosed pliers because they are in a recess in the plastic. It can be done but only with lots of patience.

However I've found it quite unnecessary to remove the ring to clean it, whether its made of brass as in the MB60/TR82B or chrome as in the TR82C/VTR103.

Just remove the tarnish from it whilst its fixed to the case with Brasso, either the liquid or wadding type. Don't worry about the black residue discolouring the plastic, it will easily come off with more fresh Brasso. In fact its very good for restoring the whole of the plastic case used on these set's. Don't get it on the red rexine though!

Only thing I will mention is, try not to get too much Brasso in the grooves of the grille as it will be difficult to buff up once it has dried and turned to powder. But if you do small sections at a time though you should have no problems.

Take a look at the pictures in my Bush EBM60 restoration thread here: https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...ad.php?t=17503 I cleaned the plastic case and brass ring on this set, which is the export version of the MB60, by exactly the method described.

Regards

[60 oldjohn]

Thank you for all your replies. I think I will take Roberts advice and clean the brass without dismantling. Am I right in thinking the brass on the set is solid and not steel coated with brass, magnet test suggests solid brass. The reason I ask is the brass is deeply pitted, could it be missing patches lacquer and bare brass has taken a real hammering over the years? Is there a solvent that will remove what lacquer is left, from the brass without damaging the plastic case? John

[Robert Darwent]

Hello John

As far as I'm aware the ring is brass all the way through, I don't think you need to worry on that regard even if it is pitted somewhat.

As for removing the old protective lacquer, I've successfully used a jelly type paint stripper brushed on and removed after a few minutes, with no ill effects to the plastic.

However to be on safe side if you try this method, test on a small area of the plastic inside the case first where its out of sight normally, and it wouldn't hurt to mask off with masking tape around the ring to prevent accidental contact with the plastic.

An alternative to paint stripper is Brasso again, but doing it this way does take some time and effort!

Regards

[60 oldjohn]

Thank you Robert, I hope to get time at the weekend, and I will keep you informed. John.

[Colin]

Originally Posted by Nickthedentist

I presume you're already aware of the usual methods of removing the perspex dial/knob, i.e. string (avoiding the pointer!) or a modified sink plunger. Minimal breakage risk if you're thoughtful.

Nick.

Never tried the plunger and I've always found the string method difficult, so I've taken to using a piece of clean cloth or rag.

Slip the cloth under the dial on two opposite sides (avoiding the pointer), grab a fistful of it and pull. It's easy to get a firm grip and the forces seem more evenly distributed around the dial. Never failed me and never broken a dial ... yet!

Colin

[60 oldjohn]

I have bought a tin if Nitromors Paint stripper and tried some inside the MB60, it started attacking the surface in seconds. I think Robert must have been using some different sort of stripper. I noticed yellow tins and green tins of Nitromors, I bought the green. Anyone know if the yellow tins are safe on plasic? John.

[Robert Darwent]

Originally Posted by 60 oldjohn

...I think Robert must have been using some different sort of stripper...

Hi John

The jelly type stripper I use is some of the cheap non-desript stuff commonly available from the pound shops and the like, in fact I think I paid less than a pound for it. The Nitromors you've bought is probably a little too potent!

However providing you are careful and mask off the plastic around the ring, use a small artist's brush to apply the stripper, and just do small areas at a time, it should still be possible to safely remove the old protective lacquer without getting any anywhere else.

Failing this method then Brasso will do the job completely safe, but will take much longer with a great deal more effort required!

Regards

[60 oldjohn]

Hi Robert, It looks like a trip to the pound shop is in order. John.

[Mike Phelan]

Just to be awkward, John, I'd say it's easier just to remove the bezel rather than trying to clean it in situ.

I've done this successfully a few times on Bushes. I used a bit of steel rod that fitted snugly in the recess where the tags are, then slotted the end with a saw-cut.
The tags can be straightened sufficiently to remove the bezel, sometimes with the assistance of some heat from your soldering iron.