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30th Oct 2017, 1:47 pm | #41 |
Dekatron
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
So far as I know Titebond hide glue is a hide glue, Titebond, Titebond 11 and Tightbond 111 are pva with different properties:
Titebond, Titebond 11 and Tightbond 111 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CqcES9bRGU Titebond 11 isn't a type 11 version of Titebond hide glue. Lawrence. Last edited by ms660; 30th Oct 2017 at 2:07 pm. |
30th Oct 2017, 2:09 pm | #42 |
Octode
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
Thanks for that. It looks as though that seller has mixed up the information for the various Titebonds. I have sent them an email.
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2nd Nov 2017, 12:18 am | #43 |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
I've now completed my experiments with the type of Gorilla Glue (GG) which I have previously mentioned. For a general adhesive for wood - usually PSE pine or redwood - I have always used PVA. So my experiments were a comparison of those two adhesives. I made two samples of a halving joint, X-shaped, using pine. In summary, my conclusions are as follows:
1. In terms of 'retaining strength' - i.e. how easy / difficult it was to pull the joint apart by hand, PVA won easily; the GG was weak in comparison. Both test samples were left for 48 hours for the respective adhesive to cure, prior to that test. 2. In terms of removing excess glue that has squeezed out of the joint - when the glue has not set, the PVA was easily superior to GG. OTOH, once the glue had set, to remove excess glue, there was no clear advantage of one adhesive over the other. 3. In terms of ease of removing excess glue (prior to it setting) from hand and clothing, PVA was very much the clear winner. 4. In terms of anticipated shelf life (including taking necessary precautions to maximize shelf life). PVA was preferable. This is based on the stated requirement with GG that the remaining air in the bottle must be squeezed out, prior to refitting the cap on the bottle's nozzle. Remarks in above posts (plus those read elsewhere) imply that if that is not done, the GG will self-cure in the bottle, thus rendering remaining adhesive useless. OTOH, yes, PVA will eventually become thick and difficult to use, but over a much longer time period - typically several months: much longer of kept in a container with a tight, well-fitting lid, thus preventing air intrusion. And even if the PVA has become thick, it can have its viscosity easily reduced by the simple expedient of adding tap water and thoroughly mixing it with the thick PVA. I know of no method / product for a similar procedure with GG, but acetone might be successful for that application. (Obviously, acetone is substantially more expensive than tap water!) 5. In terms of cost, £ per cc., PVA is more economical. So for me, I will continue to use PVA for constructional joinery in softwood. Al. Last edited by Skywave; 2nd Nov 2017 at 12:29 am. Reason: Many. Objective: to make post as informative as possible. |
2nd Nov 2017, 10:11 am | #44 |
Dekatron
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
Don't wipe off surplus PVA when gluing if you intend to stain the wood afterwards, best to leave it till it's "just right" then either peel or pare off and finish with a quick light sanding if needed.
Lawrence. |
2nd Nov 2017, 2:44 pm | #45 |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
Thanks for telling us your findings Al. All too often we have long threads that come to no conclusions at all.
B
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2nd Nov 2017, 4:24 pm | #46 | |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
Quote:
Finally, thank you for your comment. Al. |
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2nd Nov 2017, 5:54 pm | #47 |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
What Bazz says - thanks for sharing your findings so meticulously, Al.
Without wishing to contradict you (this doesn't,) the yellow adhesive version of Gorilla Glue is fantastic at joining all sorts of things together that would otherwise be problematic. The frothing property adds volume and gives form in a way that can hold 'difficult' objects. For example, I glued 4 x 1uF metal-canned oil-filled capacitors to a lexan base and together, and I glued the lexan base to wood with a very pleasing bond. The result was really sturdy and the ugliness of the froth wasn't on display as the result was hidden away. It would have taken a small fortune in epoxy resin to achieve the same result.
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2nd Nov 2017, 8:47 pm | #48 |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
....and for so very many things, where would we be without our £1.99 hot-glue guns
B
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3rd Nov 2017, 12:20 pm | #49 |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
Gorilla Glue (the various types); PVA; hot melt glue; Araldite (and its comparables); 'Evostick' (again including similar products); 'Superglue' (cyanoacrylate) and other adhesives mentioned in this thread: we are spoilt for choice! Seems to me that it is a question of choosing the appropriate adhesive for the task in question - and that choice is simply made by recourse to personal experience gathered over time - like so many 'Can I fix this / how does it work?' questions that we face in our hobby.
Al. |
3rd Nov 2017, 12:28 pm | #50 |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
When they manage to produce a glue for polythene, success, that would stick everything.
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3rd Nov 2017, 12:28 pm | #51 |
Tetrode
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
Titebond Hide Glue does steam apart easily
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3rd Nov 2017, 1:46 pm | #52 |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
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3rd Nov 2017, 2:37 pm | #53 |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
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3rd Nov 2017, 6:18 pm | #54 |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
Very true! I can just about remember when the choice (for DIY, at least) was pretty much limited to hide glue, Seccotine or Copydex. Bostick and Evostick were revolutionary when they became available.
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3rd Nov 2017, 8:59 pm | #55 | |
Octode
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
Quote:
John |
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3rd Nov 2017, 10:18 pm | #56 | |
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Re: Gorilla Glue: your experiences & opinions
Quote:
glue here : http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_...ing-System.htm claims to stick to polythene and teflon (== PTFE as far as I know) |
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