Sony BVM-20E1E Help

[sfxer_crt]

Hi,
I hope this is the correct forum for this.

I have a BVM-20E1E, fairly low hours (25k)

Recently pulled out of storage to play some games on it.

Have been using it for probably 30-40 hours since storage and today it wont turn on

I think its the power board.
While it was working and when it was powered but in standby I could see a small white led through the side panel on the psu. All there is now is a small red one (also on the psu board but in a different place).

Other than this small red led visable thorugh the side panel there is no sign of life at all.

Anyone have any ideas or know of anyone who knows these psu's to look at a repair?

Have pulled the psu board out and inspected and to my reasonably untrained eye (have repaired a few console boards, so not completly shooting in the dark) there is no sign of any bad caps.

Any help would be gratefully received, having a bad few weeks with these things, my 20" pvm stopped displaying a picture just before I got the BVM out of storage and now this one has given up too!
Was just getting into my ancient games during this lockdown which was a great way of passing the time. been meaning to get them out for years.

Many thanks,
Mark

[red16v]

Worked on these and it's variants back in the day. Generally very reliable, and all the faults I sorted out (and that included the PSU) were generally due to bad caps.

If I was still at work and a monitor came into the workshop as you describe I would blanket change all the caps on the PSU board before anything else.

Manual here:

https://archive.org/details/sony_BVM...ge/n7/mode/2up

[sfxer_crt]

Thanks very much for the advice and link.
I’ll get the service manual.

I am confident in soldering so could attempt myself.
Where is a good place to get the caps?

Otherwise, Would you be interested in taking on the psu repair if I could ship it to you? I presume not!

Thanks again,
Mark

[red16v]

You can get the capacitors from RS Components. Irrespective of the temperature ratings on the caps (you need only change the electrolytics) make sure any replacements you buy are rated at 105 degrees - these monitors run hot.

Perhaps if you make list and put it on here some kind soul may be prepared to help you out. I do not have the eyesight for close PCB work anymore I'm afraid, but again someone else here might be prepared to undertake this for you if you are not confident.

[sfxer_crt]

Thanks again, much appreciated

[Retrotechie]

I have worked on these monitors also.
Whilst the monitors are now 25 years since first launched and capacitors will be aged, blanket changing is a lot of work. Your monitor is quite low hours and chances are, it wasn’t mounted in a rack. The 14” ones were normally mounted in racks and ran much hotter, suffering from dried up capacitors.

Also, it could be another board that’s faulty, causing the PSU to shut down. Is there any squealing ? Any whoosh of EHT ?
Sometimes the failure mode can be indicated by the sequence of LEDs on the front ie overload blinking 0.5s, standby on, although Sony never published what these meant !
This is where it’s handy to have another monitor to swap boards into, but your PVM has no compatible parts unfortunately.

[sfxer_crt]

Thanks Retrotechie,

There is no sound or lights on the front or the controller at all.

The only light is the small red LED in the PSU visible through the side of the case.

I would love another one to test with but alas as you say my PVM (20M2E) is no use for this.

[Retrotechie]

If you are really stuck, I could test your power supply in my monitor.

[Retrotechie]

Did you have any luck getting this running ?