Vintage Computer & Vintage Owner Need Help with CD/DVD Drives & Media

[camtechman]

My 12 year old Dell Dimension 4500 is on it's last legs, as am I and so is my wallet ! but we're persisting in trying to keep it going.

For the last year or so, I've had problems burning audio CD's, at first the problem was intermittent but eventually it became permanent. The CD-R/RW unit was an Hitachi-LG, which was originally supplied with the computer from new (I have since found out that I was fortunate it had lasted as long as it did !)

Through the Freecycle organisation and some kind members I obtained several replacement/equivalent (?) models; Teac, Toshiba & also an LG Multi DVD/CD.

The Toshiba worked well at first but after a few months, it started to develop it's own series of problems and is now completely dead.

So, perhaps I'll try the other two units, the Teac & the LG combi DVD/CD one.

However, here's the problem: I've noticed that the shorting link on the rear connector panel of these two is in a different position than the originally suppplied Hitachi-LG & the Toshiba (which is postioned at the far left) See Pic 1,

Whilst the Teac is in the middle & the LG is on the right See pics 2 & 3.

Can anyone offer some help or advice please as to which position is correct for using the drive for just CD Playback/Recording etc.

Many thanks

[Nickthedentist]

Hi Tony,

Have a look to see if anything else is connected on the same ribbon cable, or whether it just goes back to the motherboard with no other drives connected.

If there are no other devices on the same cable, go for MA or CS.

If there is something else, have a look at its jumper to see whether it's set for MAster, SLave, or Cable Select. If Master, choose Slave. If CS, choose CS.

You will not do any damage by getting it wrong. Take note of the original configuration so you can get back to square one if your machine fails to boot etc.

Nick.

EDIT: Try CS (cable select) first, as that's what your original drive was set for.

[camtechman]

Many thanks Nick, I'll gve the "Edit" CS suggestion a try first.

The problem with getting stuff on Freecycle (Freegle) is you never know if the items you're given are faulty in the first place !

Here's hoping.

[paulsherwin]

Set the master/slave jumper to whatever position the original was set to.

The trouble with getting this sort of hardware from Freecycle / car boots etc. is that it's likely to have become unreliable and been replaced many years ago. It will then have sat on a shelf gathering dust until the owner decided to have a clearout. By this stage even the owner probably can't remember if it's faulty or not.

These drives aren't expensive new, though you could also look for a complete system unit on Freecycle containing a burner. This will be less likely to be faulty and the complete unit may be faster than the one you're using now.

[Nickthedentist]

Originally Posted by paulsherwin

The trouble with getting this sort of hardware from Freecycle / car boots etc. is that it's likey to have become unreliable and been replaced many years ago. It will then have sat on a shelf gathering dust until the owner decided to have a clearout. By this stage even the owner probably can't remember if it's faulty or not.

True, but a lot are made redundant because of upgrades, e.g I had loads of surplus CD-RW drives at one point, when I'd fitted a few machines with DVD drives. OTOH, a drive that worked when it was pulled won't necessarily work properly after 5 years of sitting in a damp garage, hot windowsill or whatever.

If buying new, go for a well-known brand but their "OEM" version which comes in a plain box with no "free" software etc. They start from about £10, but note that many will not fit older systems because they have a more modern (SATA) connector.

N.

[richrussell]

You can get a refurbished Dell or HP desktop with a fully licensed copy of Windows 7, dual core 2.4GHz CPU, 2GB RAM, DVDRW and 160GB hard disk, plus 2 year warranty for under £100.

Recently I'm finding that a far better option than cobbling together second hand parts that may well fail within a week. I know it's not in the spirit of what we do on this forum, but it saves a load of hassle and you know the kit is modern and reliable.

[mike_newcomb]

Hi Camtechman, to clarify some points:-

You mentioned 3 strap settings. You may encounter a fourth sometime:-
Master with Slave.

The flat (or maybe round) interface cable has 3 sockets, generally one is a different colour, which connects to the motherboard.
The others sockets may be labelled Master or Slave.
Generally the Master socket is in the middle.

Thus when a device is strapped for Cable Select, if it is to be the Master, connect using the middle socket. If a slave, connect with the end socket.

If the device is strapped for Master or Slave, connect to either socket. Although it is considered best for the Master to use the middle one.

I consider it bad practice to mix the CS setting with either of the others on the same cable.

Here may help explain:-

http://www.mikeshardware.com/howtos/...ct_ide_hd.html

Good Luck - Mike

[kellys_eye]

If you have two IDE sockets on the motherboard and are using 'just' a single HDD and separate CD/DVD then cable them both to MA and use separate cables to IDE0 and IDE1.

IIRC you get better data transfer/read rates with the device cabled as a master and on its own channel.

[AC/HL]

As I understand it, the slower of the devices determines the speed of the IDE port, which is why you normally put the CD and HDD on different ports.
As for HDD cables, I have two here which have the master as the end connector, and one with it as the middle one. If you're lucky they're labelled or colour coded. If you get them the wrong way round all that happens is that it won't boot.

[camtechman]

Paul

Originally Posted by paulsherwin

The trouble with getting this sort of hardware from Freecycle / car boots etc. is that it's likely to have become unreliable

Seems to be the case with the Teac version that I got on Freecycle. Started up OK but when a CD was inserted, it buzzed like a trapped bee and would go no further.

I'm not even going to install the LG Combi DVD/CD unit but, in the meantime, I've seen a Brand New NEC CD-R/RW at less than a tenner but, not being that computer savy, I'm not sure if it will be suitable.

Here's the details: NEC NR-9100A (Part No: 2P509) CD-R/RW IDE.
The original unit fitted to my Dell 4500 was: Hitachi - LG GCE-8400B CD-R/RW IDE.
(http://www.amazon.com/NEC-NR-9100A-C.../dp/B003GDVY80)

Would anyone be able to advise if the NEC would be suitable ?

Cheers,

Tony

[Nickthedentist]

That should be fine, Tony, but note you're using Amazon.com which is the American one, so postage might be horrific.

Have a look on www.amazon.co.uk , www.play.com , and www.dabs.com

Do try the other drive though. You don't need to physically screw it in place or put the covers of the machine back on, just set the jumper and plug-in the data and power connectors and leave it dangling (but not so that its case shorts anything on the motherboard). Should take 5 mins max.

Nick.

[paulsherwin]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that your CD burning software may be an OEM version locked to the original drive, and if you change the drive it may refuse to work. Easy enough to test though, and there is free software available if you need it.

If you buy a new drive, just make sure it has an IDE interface (40 pin ribbon connector on the back).

[mike_newcomb]

Hi Camtechman,

suggest using the Add/remove Hardware facility (in Control Panel), to remove the old cd drive, before installing the new one.

Depending on your PC, hopefully it will recognise the new drive without requiring any action on your part.

Good Luck - Mike

[camtechman]

Nick, it's OK, it won't be coming from the US (that link was for the technical information only) and it won't be coming from that company.

Paul, excuse my ignorance but I thought the software is via Windows Media Player (??). I've had a look at my system info and on add/remove progs and I can't see any other CD burning software, not like my friend who uses Nero (?). Where would I get the free testing software?

Mike, I've looked in the add/remove section and can't see anything there.

[camallison]

Tony,

Yesterday I removed an LG GSA-H10N from a dead machine, tested it and it is still performing well. It is yours for the price of postage/shipping.

Spec and review here: http://www.cdrlabs.com/Reviews/lg-gs.../Features.html

Colin

[camtechman]

Colin,

That's kind of you but I already have two Multi DVD/CD writers, an LG one & an Asus one. I'm after just a dediacted CD one. Thanks anyway.

Tony

[mike_newcomb]

Hi Camtechman, this is when a device is not 'Plug and Play.
e.g. when first installed, it would have needed its driver(s) loaded from a CD.
See:-

http://www.ehow.com/how_6394077_remo...indows-xp.html

Under my Windows XP os, it is:-
Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager/
click on + for DVD/CD-ROM Drives lists connected drives/
click on the device/
Action (at top)/Uninstall Driver


Regards - Mike

[camtechman]

Hi All,

Sorry that I've not been back to this thread to reply or to add further updates but I've been busy - explanation as follows:

A couple of days ago, I managed to get hold of my nephew who's the IT Manager at Santander and I spoke to him about the problem and, through a colleague at work he got hold of an actual Hitachi-LG GCE-8400B CD-R/RW IDE unit (as fitted to my computer when new) & it's in full working and tested order and it didn't cost me a penny.

I installed it yesterday and all was fine and it worked in every function BUT, and this eventually turned out to be nothing to do with the 'new' drive, it wouldn't successfully record music to a CD-R disc and I tried several times, each with a new disc and at different recording speeds but it resulted in zero recording.

Fortunately my nephew had the day off today and he popped round to sort out the problem and he brought with him more diagnostic equipment than I'd ever imagined existed.

After sweating over the problem, three cups of tea and a sandwich he called me in and held up the problem........duff CD-R discs...Maxell ones that I'd only received a few days before !!!

To confirm the problem, he recorded some of my music to a Verbatim CD-R & then a TDK CD-R and then onto another new Maxell CD-R and whilst both the Verbatim and the TDK worked well on the PC and my Mini-Stack system, the Maxell failed to work on the PC and the Mini Stack (it displayed "No Disc" with the Maxell) !!!

He's taken some of the 'bad' Maxells & 10 New/Un-used ones for examination & testing and he'll let me know what his team come up with, because they'll need to be returned to the seller that I bought them from.

Go Figure! Is this coincidental bad luck or what ??!!

Ho-Hum, all's well that ends well and I'm happily back to recording muisic onto some of the Verbatim discs that my nephew has provided me with.

(anyone want a stack of surplus 'quality' CD-drives ? )

Tony

[paulsherwin]

It's coincidental bad luck.

Brand names mean nothing in the CD-R world and almost all of them are made in factories in India and China and then badged. Sometimes you just get a bad batch, though my impression is that quality control has improved over the last decade. They certainly don't seem to degrade as much.

I mostly use Verbatims now and haven't had any problems, but that may just be luck. You often see spindles of 50 or 100 on special offer. The five for a pound Signalex ones from Poundland have also been OK when I've tried them.

[brunel]

DVD IDENTIFIER.

Very useful for checking the actual manufacturer

Free download.

http://www.afterdawn.com/software/cd...identifier.cfm