Bush TUG34

[HamishBoxer]

Rubber wire will certainly be perished but think looking at the pictures there is lot of PVC or plastic that's just fine.

If it crumbles, it's rubber!

[Heatercathodeshort]

Well there is dedication for you and an inspiration to all the telly restorers. A really nice job.
Now for the difficult bit..
The TUG34 is basically a TUG26 [16" metal cone] with knobs on. I have both manuals and if you would like to scan them I can forward. They are rather large and you may have to resort to a professional A3 scanner.
Please PM with your details if you need them. Regards, John.

[ekcopyephilips]

Great job so far.. I used to have that very Hoover washing machine in my fist remted house, cost me £50

[Stubble]

Howdy

Thanks for the words of encouragement.

If the cabinet hadn’t been so bad I would have gone for first light first, but due to its infestation the cabinet needed looking at first so that I could bring it inside to the kitchen workshop.

All the valves look in fine order none seem to have gone to air and the glass has cleaned up with out removing the markings.

All the wiring is indeed in rubber, the only wires in need of replacing was the four pole cable from mains input to the switch and returning to the dropper and chassis fuse.

Today I have tackled this wiring and the mains switch was not working, so I have stripped down the switch and cleaned the contacts, while doing this I have cleaned the volume pot, what a pig that little spring was to re-fit tested my patience to the max.

I have replaced the wires between the fuse and dropper to the switch with singles and fitted a new mains lead directly to the switch disregarding the old two pin point but leaving them in place for looks and completely isolated, I will have to clamp this new mains lead to the inside of the cabinet on completion.

Tested the new wiring and we now have continuity all the way to the voltage selectors.

John. Yes please and thank you very much I will PM you.

Ekcopyphilips The Hoover is A3110 and one of five vintage washers I have all around the mid seventies to the early eighties.

Lee

[Colourstar]

Wow- Lovely job on the cabinet. Sometimes doing the case first provides that crucial inspiration for the electronic side of the restoration.

I'd agree with Hamishboxer regarding cap replacement. No doubt all the waxies will want changing, but if you do a few at a time you can at least see things (hopefully) improving bit by bit. Let's hope the crt still has something to give.

Anyway, good luck and well rescued!

Steve J

[chompy1]

don't forget to check for shorts across the terminals of the reservoir and smoothing capacitors.

If you've still yet to order replacement capacitors, I strongly recommend Farnell electronics. I would use the yellow LCR cylindrical shaped ones to replace the waxies.
I would go for the one's that have a DC voltage rating of 1000 volts.

I think they also stock aluminium canned reservoir and smoothing capacitors too.

Paul

[Stubble]

I’m now armed and ready to start the fun part; John (Heatercathodeshort) kindly posted the service information manuals which I have scanned and returned to him,
thank you very much John.

It’s a nice circuit and the data has helped me make sense of the layout and the challenge ahead.

Hopefully I will achieve first light some time over the next few days. If first light is achieved with something on the tube I can then check the resistors and order any which require replacement along with the caps, when I start replacing the caps I will work one or two cap’s at a time, starting with the line generator-output stage, this is what I’m most interested in seeing the difference that each component makes to the output on the tube..

Must buy that Aurora I have been saving for too.

[stubbyeddy]

I dont think your to far away from me (Newtown) so you can borrow my Aurora if you like until you get one sorted ect just send me a PM. Good luck and im looking forward to hearing how you get on.

[bobbyball]

What a lovely colour the cabinet has come up.

It reminds me of a Bush RG46 (from the same era I think) that I did up years ago - the cabinet came up the same rich colour. Well done with your progress!

Robert

[Stubble]

Afternoon all

I have achieved first light to a degree.

First thing this morning I re-fitted all the valves, sniped out C36 across the mains switch terminals and also sniped out C35 the hum cancellation cap.

Checked some of the values of the resistors that I could get at while replacing the valves. I can see that R19 2.7k within the line output stage needs changing as it reads 6.80k, R18 270k line generator stage reads 319k and R4 220k frame generator stage reads 180k.

No. Stated Value Measured Reading
R2 10K 11.44K
R3 200 213.8
R4 220K 180K
R7 220K 210K
R8 220K 224.8K
R9 1M 1.109M
R10 1K 1.220K
R11 820 .948K
R13 1.5M 1.5M
R15 39K 43.4K
R15 15K 16.69K
R16 1M 1.281M
R17 68K 76K
R18 270K 319K
R19 2.7K 6.80K
R20 47K 52.3K
R21 470 .542M
R22 22K 2.619K
R23 100 109.8
R24 1K 1.257K
R25 47 47.7
R27 2.2M 2.281M
R28 39K 48K
R29 400 .401K
R30 3K 3.03K
R31 30 31.3
R32 30 30.9

I then connected the green heater chain lead only to the voltage selector and powered up to nothing, wiggled some of the valves and re-applied power to achieve first light in the heater chain, all with a nice gentle even glow including the tube heater, at this point I left them running for about five minutes, some smoke being omitted from R29 and R30 which soon dissipated, what a nice aroma, decades of damp dust burning.

Next I connected the red lead to the voltage selector and applied power, the heaters came up quite quickly and after a few minutes a faint grunt came from the loud speaker which was short lived moments after that a somewhat loud line whistle, after a further two or three mins the EY51 heater started to faintly glow, No signs of life on the tube yet. The line whistle aroused the dog who came bumbling in and started nosing around so I withdrew the power until she disappeared back to her bed.

On re-powering, the same results but this time the EY51 heater never came up, this has been a fantastic result as I relay did not think I would get this far so quickly.

Stubbyeddy, thank you for your offer of the use of you Aurora, I will be ordering one this next week, I’m indeed not that far from you I live at Knighton.

That it for now, ordering the caps some time this next week.

[Stubble]

Up-Date

My new toy arrived yesterday, the aurora but I had to wait till today to get hold of a power supply for it before playtime.

Made a lead to connect the input to the Bush and then check what channel was selected on the TV which was 4

Set the aurora to channel 4 connected it all up and applied power.

I was rewarded with a good clear test tone, twiddled with the ion trap and hay presto first light on the tube.

Line output working along with the EHT, collapsed frame output but
OMG I’m soooo HAPPY…

Middle photo shows the width switch works too.

[mark pirate]

Good work so far, the frame collapse could be due to an o/c blocking tx, seems a common fault, especially if the set was badly stored.

Mark

[GLENZ32]

Great progress so far! You've got the vital organs functioning on that chassis which is promising, now the fun job of replacing all those wax caps begins and fixing that frame fault...
By the way a fantastic job on the cabinet too. Good luck with the rest. Cheers Glen.

[Stubble]

Some more progress today

Started the re-capping in the frame output stage to see if I could get the stage working and the frame opening out for me. I’m grafting the new caps onto the tails of the old, winding the new tails around a steel pin to make a tight spiral which fits over the old tail and solders on nicely.

Success, the raster fills the screen and with the Aurora connected I can just make out the centre circle of the test card, it’s whizzing around the screen at a thousand miles an hour but it’s there.

The controls adjust it to a degree, so I will continue into the Sync stage next week.

No photo the camera died on me.

[Boom]

One day I will be brave enough to tackle one of these PL81 chassis.

Can I just say that the resistor readings you are getting are only valid if one end of the component is disconnected from the circuit.

Other than that , they are probably not as far off they seem. Most are certainly well within tolerance.

[mark pirate]

Good news that the blocking tx is ok, have you checked the resistors yet?
Don't worry about them being spot on, but I have found some that that have gone really high, even doubled in value!

Mark

[Stubble]

Good evening,
Got some very poor photos of what is now on the tube, at the moment the raster won’t lock so I’m hoping that the change of resistor R4 220k which has dropped to 180K and the re-capping in the sync stage will sort that out I will re-cap first and see what happens.

I’ve noticed that the fridge is producing a hum on the speaker when it’s running and if the freezer starts it gets very loud and the line whistle changes, again I’m hopping that this will be rectified with the re-stuffing of C34 60uF HT line reservoir and C33 250uF HT line smoothing both rated 275v dc in one can which is bulging and oozing and also getting quite warm. The replacement caps are 68uF and 270uF at 400v Elect.

I also plan to re-stuff C35 3uF hum cancellation with 3 parallel 1uF class X2 275v ac
Caps.

Dave & Mark, I have checked some of the resistors, just a few are quite a bit out so have spares ready, change caps first and see what happens.

Thanks
Lee

[mark pirate]

Looking good Lee, It is not really necessary to replace the hum cancellation cap, the general consensus is it makes no difference to the set except with it in circuit the set uses more power, I did not refit it to my TV22, it works very happily without it.

Mark

[Sideband]

Originally Posted by Stubble

C33 250uF HT line smoothing both rated 275v dc in one can which is bulging and oozing and also getting quite warm.

I'd replace that next. It will probably bring the HT up and may improve the sync as well.


Rich

[Stubble]

Re-stuffing of C's 33 & 34

I have cut the can where the clamp covers, scraped out the old contents, what a nasty smell of burnt plastic. Drilled out the old solder tags and soldered new tails to the caps and feed them through the holes. Cut some plastic to fit inside the old can to help hold it together, taped closed and fitted back into the chassis.