11th Aug 2020, 3:16 pm | #1 |
Triode
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Wigan, Lancashire, UK.
Posts: 32
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"That Wire"
We are all used to reading about "that cap". But very little is said, if anything, about what wire do we choose when replacing worn out wiring. What gauge is usually needed? Is it the same thickness whatever radio you have? Is it single strand fits all, or multi strand or a mixture of both? And when you have figured this out, where do you buy it from?
Given the very limited amount of wire some of us are ever likely to need then that becomes a problem.This may seem a somewhat obvious non-problem to the expert. But believe you me, it is a problem for the novice. People do get embarrassed about asking simple questions to "experts" and then they just don't ask. And then because they don't, they never learn, and that smashed up radio you find in the skip down the road, that belonged to one of them. But after saying all that, i have always found the members on this site to be very obliging, and very helpful no matter what the problem, so thanks for that. |
11th Aug 2020, 3:33 pm | #2 |
Hexode
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Portsmouth, Hampshire, UK.
Posts: 428
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Re: "that wire"
You make some very salient points HoraceBatchelor, which got me to thinking. I count myself as very fortunate as I work in a place that uses vast amounts of all types/gauges of wire, the scrap bins are always awash with the stuff! Usually PTFE/Teflon/silicone rubber coated, HV stuff, heavy current, you name it. When replacing wiring in an old set I usually use the 7/0.2 gauge PTFE for HT but if I can salvage the cotton covering I'll slip the wire inside, the PTFE is rated to 600VDC so, if anything, its a little over the top for most domestic radios. For the filament circuit, if its a series connected set, I'll stick with the 7/0.2 but for the parallel ones I'll use 2.5mm Telfon wire, as I said, I'm lucky as I have free access to basically whatever I want/need. I can understand beginners being rather reticent of asking for advice as it seems such a basic question, far from it. As you have pointed out, the members of the forum are always willing to answer any & all questions, whether you are a beginner or a seasoned veteran.
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The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits. (Einstein) |
11th Aug 2020, 4:55 pm | #3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Re: "That Wire"
Modern wire is so much better than the stuff used in vintage equipment, my favorites are...
Solid core silicone, easy to strip, does not melt, easy to put into place. Solid core PVC, same as above, much cheaper, does melt a little. Solid or stranded PTFE, very expensive, lovely to work with, a pain to lace up. For external connexions, PVC stranded. |
11th Aug 2020, 8:07 pm | #4 |
Rest in Peace
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Basildon, Essex, UK.
Posts: 4,100
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Re: "That Wire"
Its not important, if the wire is in the chassis and unlikely to be flexed or moved about. So long as the wire is suitable from a current point of view and is insulated if it is a long run.
I use old PVC cables stripped from old radios, red, black, and green. I also strip blue and brown from modern 2 wire cables. I save all old wire and cables, if it is PVC it has many years of life left in it and a piece of wire is always useful to have around. Mike |
11th Aug 2020, 8:18 pm | #5 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wiltshire, UK.
Posts: 13,996
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Re: "That Wire"
Since quite a lot of the stuff I do is 'power'-valve based I have issues of both heat and voltage to consider - a couple of 807s and a GZ33 kick out a lot of heat, and there's something like 400VDC to deal with too].
My favourite 'valve circuit' wire is the fibreglass-weave-insulated, stranded stuff. You can often recover this [in a range of colours] from scrap cookers, washing-machines etc - it's rated for 250VAC and I've never had it fail. [Hellermann sleeves are a good way to conceal any 'furriness' of the fibreglass strands where you've stripped the insulation off] |