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Vintage Telephony and Telecomms Vintage Telephones, Telephony and Telecomms Equipment |
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15th Aug 2014, 9:24 am | #1 |
Pentode
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Bury, Greater Manchester, UK.
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Another telephone issue this time a 328
I recently bought an ivory 328 which has cleaned up nicely.
It has been given a new braided flex to connect to the line. I followed the instructions on the useful website which so many people on here recommend in connecting the phone, but the phone has no dialling tone, and when dialling in the phone will not pick up, it just keep ringing. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I can do to solve this? I did wonder whether it has something to do with the earpiece to begin with, but then once the phone rang I thought maybe not. I have a 330 which works perfectly so did think I could if needed try the handset from this phone to see if it fixes the problem - just to rule things out before purchasing parts. Thanks once again Steve |
15th Aug 2014, 10:49 am | #2 |
Dekatron
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Location: Penrith, Cumbria, UK.
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
What is the function of the push-buttons?
Could you forget about any extra switchery and configure it as a 332 instrument to start with and see if it works like that? Strap terminals T1 to T2, T11 to T12, remove links T8 to T9 and T10 to T11 and connect a standard BT plug and lead to the following places: Red (pin 5 on your plug) to T8. Blue (pin 4 on your plug) to T11 / T12. White (pin 2 on your plug) to T1 / T2. Use a known, working BT plug and lead if possible. Have you checked the cores in your braided cable for continuity and are sure the appropriate cores lead to to the appropriate pins on the plug? Do this and report back.
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Regds, Russell W. B. G4YLI. |
17th Aug 2014, 4:06 pm | #3 |
Pentode
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
Thank you Russell,
I have had to go away, and will have a look at this when I get back home. Thank you once again for your advice. Steve |
17th Aug 2014, 8:45 pm | #4 |
Dekatron
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
You're welcome. It's just a starting point, that's all. Whilst you're on, make sure your handset is connected to the terminal block correctly:
White (mic) to T4; Red (mic and receiver common) to T5; Green (receiver) to T6. Once you've done this, it'll be possible to solve any problem(s). There may be more than one!
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Regds, Russell W. B. G4YLI. |
30th Aug 2014, 1:45 pm | #5 |
Pentode
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
Finally home, and have change the wiring to be like a 332. It does the same thing, it rings, and continues to ring when the receiver is picked up!
I shall disconnect the other 332 later and have another try using the handset from this phone and see if that helps. Steve |
30th Aug 2014, 6:40 pm | #6 |
Dekatron
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
It sounds like the cradle switch rather than the handset. Are the plungers jamming and not letting the contacts close? Are the correct plungers fitted for the chassis? There are two types: with rollers and without rollers. You'll need to lift out the chassis by releasing the three screws and check that the switch is working.
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Regds, Russell W. B. G4YLI. |
30th Aug 2014, 9:45 pm | #7 |
Pentode
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
Hi again Russell
Ha, we're getting somewhere. I got the chassis out and found that one of the wires had snapped off the switch just at the solder point. This was re-joined, after which I had a bit of sound from the handset. I re-configured back to the original set up which made no difference, but after removing the 3.3k resistor I now have a faint dialling tone. Is there anything I should be trying? I am thinking I should try removing the metal diaphragm and re fitting, and failing that I'm thinking whether to do the handset swap. Steve |
31st Aug 2014, 10:53 pm | #8 |
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
Does the ringing now stop when you pick up the handset?
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Regds, Russell W. B. G4YLI. |
1st Sep 2014, 2:30 pm | #9 |
Dekatron
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
I'm puzzled as to why removing the 3.3K resistor has made any difference to the audibilty of the dial tone. By "removed", do you mean left open-cicuit or replaced with a link? Are you sure everything is wired correctly? If removing the resistor and leaving the bell out-of-circuit improves the dial tone, it implies that either the bell or the capacitor in series with it is faulty (presumably short-circuit).
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1st Sep 2014, 3:10 pm | #10 |
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
Hi, yes, the phone can now be answered and the bell stops, I can also dial out, but everything is so faint!
Dave, I took out the resistor and replaced it with one of the links- sorry , I should have made that clearer. Would it be worth trying without the link? I have checked and couple checked wiring and the wires themselves, and it all appears to be right. Russell, you asked about the operation of the buttons on top. They are supposedly for the bell - on/off, but now I am beginning to find my feet With the wiring, it appears that the connection block for these switches isn't even wired. I presume this to have always been the case, as the phone looks to have been un-touched for an incredibly long time. |
1st Sep 2014, 4:39 pm | #11 | ||
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
Quote:
Quote:
Would it be possible to post a picture of the wiring as it stands? That way others can check to see whether there is anything you've missed. This simply means that the bell is always on (or off, except that you say it rings). If you wish to use the "bell on/off" button, simply connect the appropriate pair of wires in place of one of the links in the bell circuit. There are presumably three wires coming out of the bell on/off switch - one which connects to one of the other two with the button up and to the other when the button is down. If you use the latter, the ringer will only be on with the button down.
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1st Sep 2014, 5:35 pm | #12 |
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
Link / bell confusion notwithstanding, are your 'dial off-normal' contacts on the dial permanently shorted? They should only close when the dial is rotated off-rest. There are two sets of DON contacts and a set of impulse contacts.
While you have the dial out for a look, can you short together terminals 2 and 3 on the dial terminal block on the top of the chassis? This will make the telephone look like a Central Battery one and if the fault is on the DON contacts, should work at normal volume.
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Regds, Russell W. B. G4YLI. |
1st Sep 2014, 6:15 pm | #13 |
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
My apologies! That should be terminals 4 and 5 linked on the dial terminal block when the dial is removed. This sets it up as a CB telephone, rather than an auto one, and so will eliminate dial off-normal problems. Leave all other dial terminals on the dial block disconnected.
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Regds, Russell W. B. G4YLI. |
2nd Sep 2014, 2:57 pm | #14 |
Pentode
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
Hi again, and thanks for the ideas.mi have checked the dial contacts, and they are open when the dial is at rest. I also shorted terminals4,5 on the dial block to see if this made a difference. Although I got some very loud clear crackling the dial tone still remained quiet.
I took all the wiring and links off and re wired again following the details above and the details on Britishtelephones web pages. It is connected as T1, T2 then T8,T9 then T10,T11,T12 are linked. The line cord is then connected as white to T1/2, red to T8/9 and blue to T10/11/12, this is using an original style cloth flex which goes to a junction box where it then has a modern flex attached with the modern BT socket. The colours on the modern flex are joined to the same colour of the cloth flex. I have tried to attach photos, but I'm working on my iPad at the moment and seem unable to get them to download....modern technology! |
2nd Sep 2014, 3:30 pm | #15 |
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Re: Another telephone issue this time a 328
Can you try connecting the links and line cord as in post #2?
Is the side-tone loud, or even audible, in the receiver when you blow into the mic? Do the terminals at the telephone end of your combined line-cords tally with the pins on the BT plug (as mentioned in post #2)? Can you get at the four capacitor terminals and ensure that they aren't shorted anywhere? If you're handy with a soldering iron, could you disconnect one of the RF suppression capacitor terminals (the 0.1uF side of the four-terminal capacitor) and see if that makes a difference? Whilst you have a wire off one of the 0.1uF capacitor legs, could you put your multimeter - on Ohms - across it and check that it reads infinity on the highest range? A shorted 0.1uF cap. would make the loop as it sits across the microphone. Can you check all connections on the induction coil for whiskers, dry joints, etc...? The d.c. resistances of the coil winding are shown on the cct diagram here.. If you remove the handset wires at the terminal block, ensure the dial is at rest and keep the handset on-hook, you should be able to check these values with your multimeter. Worth a look...
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