Rings in glass on CRT in Philips 563A - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

Duke_Nukem · 30th Nov 2007, 8:58 pm

Mid attempting to remove the CRT from the beast, I noticed some very clear white concentric circles in the CRT glass doing a very good impression of cracked glass. It seems to be highlighted by teh light source itself as they weren't visible when I photo'd them with flash but you can see them clearly when I don't use the flash.

What does the team think ? About to go bang ?

Also when trying to remove the gubbins mounted round the CRT neck, it seems to move freely half an inch and then seems to catch. Nothing externally obvious for this, the clamping plate at the back is completely removed revealing the rubber bit is in good knick and not turned to gloop so that shouldn't be sticking. Should I just yank on it harder ?

TTFN,
Jon

Steve_P · 30th Nov 2007, 10:06 pm

Put it by the fire for a bit? I can't see what those white lines are, but don't yank too hard. You never know. Try pushing it one way slightly and then pulling. It sounds like there's something in the way.

Top left of second picture - what is that? And at the bottom there.

Cheers,

Steve P.

Duke_Nukem · 1st Dec 2007, 12:24 am

Top left is a bulb + holder for the radio tuning scale, at the bottom is a can which I think is something to do with the radio section thogh to be honest I havenet looked (it is bolted to chassis, it is in teh way, right now that's all I need to know).

The manual I have is for teh 383, which is minus the radio - all the extra metalwork for the 563 means CRT can't be removed before you remove the chassis. To remove the chassis the manual tells you to remove the CRT. Grrr ...

Anyhow, main concern is those rings on the CRT, the first pic still doesn't pic out how clear and sharp they are.

I dismantled a D16T equivalent, tube is same but no noticable rings (it also took only 25 minds to strip from complete D16T look-alike to seperate pile of bits - took over an hour to get nowhere with the Philips - gone right off Philips!).

TTFN,
Jon

Heatercathodeshort · 1st Dec 2007, 8:51 am

Hello Jon,
Its gonna go pop! 10-9-8-7-6.... Don't worry too much about the rings on the bowl of the MW22-7 crt. I am pretty certain that these tubes were hand blown and the turning process with the molten glass would produce the rings. Believe me if the tube was cracked it would have gone down to air after all these years. I have never known a Mullard 9" tube to self implode.
Service manuals were produced from brand new chassis with everything loose and no melted wax to cause sticking problems with scan coils etc. The general rule when changing tubes was to run the set for a few hours before pulling it to bits. This tended to soften the wax and the scan coil insulating rings etc.
As Steve says it needs to warmed up over a long period to ease removal. Don't play a hairdryer on it or subject it to a sudden increase in temperature as this may stress the old glass. Try to warm it by placing it close to a radiator for several hours so that the whole receiver becomes warm. You may find that some insulating washers or spacers around the neck have become siezed with the decades. Regards, John.

Duke_Nukem · 1st Dec 2007, 9:45 am

The second photo really doesn't show the rings well they are very well defined. However this is with the set illuminated only by the 60W bulb in the kitchen and not directly illuminating the tube. This morning in daylight they are completely undetectable. However I only noticed them last night after starting to take the beast appart.

I'll try leaving the central heating on all day (very environmnentally friendly) and have another go. It's just I'm cautious about how much force to apply and at what time to stop. I'm holding the back of the tube (i.e. near pins) and pulling the assembly which should minimise stress on the tube. Then we'll see if them idiots at Philips really have made the loom connecting the assembly to the chassis 1/2 inch to small for the assembly to clear the back of the tube as that is how it looks.

TTFN,
Jon

30th Nov 2007, 8:58 pm	#1
Duke_Nukem Octode Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Birmingham, West Midlands, UK. Posts: 1,268	Rings in glass on CRT in Philips 563A Mid attempting to remove the CRT from the beast, I noticed some very clear white concentric circles in the CRT glass doing a very good impression of cracked glass. It seems to be highlighted by teh light source itself as they weren't visible when I photo'd them with flash but you can see them clearly when I don't use the flash. What does the team think ? About to go bang ? Also when trying to remove the gubbins mounted round the CRT neck, it seems to move freely half an inch and then seems to catch. Nothing externally obvious for this, the clamping plate at the back is completely removed revealing the rubber bit is in good knick and not turned to gloop so that shouldn't be sticking. Should I just yank on it harder ? TTFN, Jon Attached Thumbnails

30th Nov 2007, 10:06 pm	#2
Steve_P Dekatron Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Bolton, Greater Manchester, UK. Posts: 6,644	Re: CRT in Philips 563A Put it by the fire for a bit? I can't see what those white lines are, but don't yank too hard. You never know. Try pushing it one way slightly and then pulling. It sounds like there's something in the way. Top left of second picture - what is that? And at the bottom there. Cheers, Steve P. __________________ If we've always had it, why is the Car Boot open? You're not sneaking another Old TV in are you...?

1st Dec 2007, 12:24 am	#3
Duke_Nukem Octode Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Birmingham, West Midlands, UK. Posts: 1,268	Re: CRT in Philips 563A Top left is a bulb + holder for the radio tuning scale, at the bottom is a can which I think is something to do with the radio section thogh to be honest I havenet looked (it is bolted to chassis, it is in teh way, right now that's all I need to know). The manual I have is for teh 383, which is minus the radio - all the extra metalwork for the 563 means CRT can't be removed before you remove the chassis. To remove the chassis the manual tells you to remove the CRT. Grrr ... Anyhow, main concern is those rings on the CRT, the first pic still doesn't pic out how clear and sharp they are. I dismantled a D16T equivalent, tube is same but no noticable rings (it also took only 25 minds to strip from complete D16T look-alike to seperate pile of bits - took over an hour to get nowhere with the Philips - gone right off Philips!). TTFN, Jon

1st Dec 2007, 8:51 am	#4
Heatercathodeshort Dekatron Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Warnham, West Sussex. 10 miles south of DORKING. Posts: 9,147	Re: CRT in Philips 563A Hello Jon, Its gonna go pop! 10-9-8-7-6.... Don't worry too much about the rings on the bowl of the MW22-7 crt. I am pretty certain that these tubes were hand blown and the turning process with the molten glass would produce the rings. Believe me if the tube was cracked it would have gone down to air after all these years. I have never known a Mullard 9" tube to self implode. Service manuals were produced from brand new chassis with everything loose and no melted wax to cause sticking problems with scan coils etc. The general rule when changing tubes was to run the set for a few hours before pulling it to bits. This tended to soften the wax and the scan coil insulating rings etc. As Steve says it needs to warmed up over a long period to ease removal. Don't play a hairdryer on it or subject it to a sudden increase in temperature as this may stress the old glass. Try to warm it by placing it close to a radiator for several hours so that the whole receiver becomes warm. You may find that some insulating washers or spacers around the neck have become siezed with the decades. Regards, John.

1st Dec 2007, 9:45 am	#5
Duke_Nukem Octode Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Birmingham, West Midlands, UK. Posts: 1,268	Re: CRT in Philips 563A The second photo really doesn't show the rings well they are very well defined. However this is with the set illuminated only by the 60W bulb in the kitchen and not directly illuminating the tube. This morning in daylight they are completely undetectable. However I only noticed them last night after starting to take the beast appart. I'll try leaving the central heating on all day (very environmnentally friendly) and have another go. It's just I'm cautious about how much force to apply and at what time to stop. I'm holding the back of the tube (i.e. near pins) and pulling the assembly which should minimise stress on the tube. Then we'll see if them idiots at Philips really have made the loom connecting the assembly to the chassis 1/2 inch to small for the assembly to clear the back of the tube as that is how it looks. TTFN, Jon