Metamec Alarm Clock

[Francesca2161]

Hello, I'm new here, trying to find out if there is anyway I can get my old Metamec alarm clock fixed before I just sell it for spare parts, or just complete forget about it!

It appears to be a 1960's clock, it powers up and lights up (the dial lights up in pink), and it keeps time for about a half hour and then the arms stick. The alarm button at the back is stuck at OFF. There is a knob that allows you to switch the ticking off, which works, and the knob to set the alarm also works. I've had my local horologist have a look at it but he said he wouldn't bother with it as it's too fiddly, given the nylon parts. I thought that maybe there might be someone else who would like to fix it that has experience of these sorts of clocks, and if so can someone let me know where I might find them? Seems a shame to not get it working again as it's quite a lovely looking vintage clock, and the casing is in mint condition. Just thought I'd ask here before I decide what to do! I've attached pics, thanks!

[Nicklyons2]

Firstly, I would check to see if the problem is at the movement end of the clock or the display end. By this I mean is the actual elctrical movement or the following gear train sticking or faulty OR is there a problem with the 'hands'. If you set the clock going does it, for example, always stick with the minute hand at quarter past etc, OR does it always run for about half an hour and then stop whatever the position of the hands.

If it's movement end problems; dried up oil, grease and general 'gunk' (ciggy smoke if applicable) are the usual causes of them 'running out of steam'. If you feel confident in taking the clock case off (unplugged from supply) have a look at the metalwork and using using a cotton bud soaked in the old type lighter fuel or very thin oil, 'swab' some of the larger parts and see how much dirt comes off; if there's a lot it's 99% certain that's the cause. Be careful not to leave any cotton threads in the movement.

If it always sticks at a particular time, check the hands don't scrape together, check the larger cogs driver the hands directly haven't got dirt in the teeth or missing teeth. There are some variations in the movements in 1960s/70s electric clocks and more plastic parts were introduced the later they got but most Metamecs I've seen were very largely still metal movements; I think your clock-maker was a bit disparaging, I'm glad he's busy enough to be able to turn down a bit of (for him) very easy work.

[Francesca2161]

Thanks so much for your advice! I'm fairly sure that the minute arm is not stopping in the same place each time - I think it's random, however I'm going to put that to the test and watch more closely this time. Then I will attempt to open it up and have a look and do what you say.

Yes my local clock maker is a bit of a purist when it comes to antique clocks - he's not interested in anything later than pre or early 20th Century. He seems to think all mid-century clocks are a load of rubbish and to be chucked when they go wrong! He just couldn't get his head around why I wouldn't just go out and buy a new alarm clock!

I will report back here later with progress! Thanks again.

[Francesca2161]

Well I had a look at it operating and the arm's stopping is definitely random. In fact this time they just stopped after about 5 minutes instead of a half hour like before. I tried to open up the clock, I took the two back screws out, but I could not see how to open it! It seems sealed except for the clear cover over the face, and that doesn't budge. When I took the screws out this definitely resulted in the insides moving about loosely, but I couldn't open it up. Maybe it's just made in a way that it is permanently sealed? Anyway would you or anyone else be able to fix it for me if I sent it to you and paid you? m I allowed to ask that sort of thing here? I would really like to fix it if poss! Thanks!

[Mike Phelan]

Francesca,

A few comments, not necessarily in any order.

The movement won't be sealed.

You probably need to remove the hands before you can get the movement out.

Even if you cannot repair it, the clock is still worth something if intact, but selling it for spares will get you nothing!

Plastic wheels are sometimes a bit of a problem but if no-one's been "at it" it's probably just in need of a service (dismantle, clean and lubricate). Such things need doing every five or ten years, but never get it.
The kiss of death is squirting things like WD40 into them .

[Francesca2161]

Any ideas on how I might find someone who can service it? I'm afraid of trying to prise it open and mess about with it - I'm sure to muck it up! If not then I'll just try and find another clockmaker near where I live...

[Mike Phelan]

Francesca, you've a PM on way.

[Mike Phelan]

As clocks tend to find their way to me, this one was no exception!

On connecting the clock to the mains, it made a few small noises, but nothing else. There was something rattling around inside.

It dates from the 1970s at a guess. There’s a neon bulb inside the case which gives some faint illumination on the dial when it’s in a darkened room.

Time to open it up. You squeeze the Plexiglas front to obtain access to the innards. At this point it was impossible to get the minute hand off so I swung the dial around so I could remove the screws holding the dial plate on the case, plus the screws on the back.

The minute hand came off after getting better access to it. This, and all the knobs, are pressed on quite tightly.

The loose thing rattling round was the anti-reverse device which prevents the motor running backwards when you apply mains to it. 50% chance of that! Fortunately it wasn’t broken (see pic.)

It would attempt to run but there was a lot of dried grease on the rotor worm and the rotor itself wasn’t spinning freely.

All the wheels are of the plastic sort; it’s a good job none of these were worn or damaged.

A complete dismantle and a wash in IPA, followed by reassembling and lubricating pivots had it all running nicely.
Though some of the pivots are all plastic I do lubricate them with turret clock oil even though they weren’t oiled in manufacture.

For interest, always keep the rotor well away from any ferrous bits on the bench and clean it before cleaning the rest with new solvent for the same reason.

The ARD (anti-reverse device) is clipped on the first wheel (pic). If the motor starts correctly the ARD is pushed away from the rotor as the wheel rotates. If it starts backward the converse happened; the long end of the ARD is pushed against the rotor. The rotor has two protrusions and one of them hits the ARD; as the latter is flexible the rotor rebounds, spinning it the correct way.