Sony KV-25X1U Battered PCB

[IKC2E51R8]

Hi All

After battling Covid the last 10 days i had a suprize this morning when the childhood trinitron arrived from the UK this morning. I had hope it survived unscathed as it looked that way from the outside so plugged in and Nothing.

no lights no degause - nothing.

Opened it up to the horror of a sever crack under the flyback (its a bit more than a crack in that its almost completly seperated from the rest of the chassis)

then I find another hairline crack beside the A-Board which goes through some very fine traces.

Then I notice the crack from the flyback spreads all the way through to the vertical deflection.

at first before I seen the extent of the damage i was going to just repair the damage at the flyback, now Im not so sure if this board is salvagable.

I've posted in the Wanted section for a replacment BE-3D chassis on the off chance by some miracle a member on here will have one to spare.

Thoughts? should I dive in and give it a go? Ive spent a fair bit to get it here and the only reason I can think it sustained the damage was UPS may have been too rough with it even though from what I could tell it was very well packaged.

[Welsh Anorak]

Oh dear - that does look very bad. Of course nothing's impossible, but is it worth all the trouble to find out the bad drop has resulted in a displaced CRT shadowmask?
Have you any chance of insurance with the courier? Very often you'll find that TVs aren't covered but it's worth a go to get some of your money back.
.

[IKC2E51R8]

Originally Posted by Welsh Anorak

Oh dear - that does look very bad. Of course nothing's impossible, but is it worth all the trouble to find out the bad drop has resulted in a displaced CRT shadowmask?
Have you any chance of insurance with the courier? Very often you'll find that TVs aren't covered but it's worth a go to get some of your money back.
.

Id imagine the Tube is ok, it really doesnt seem like its been hurled about so much that it would displace the aperture grill. The courier only covers it for loss not damage cause its a restricted item.

My own fault for using UPS when i should have used shiply, the last time I used shiply for a philips set id never seen a tv arrived in the exact condition it left the sellers home. I'll be using shiply to bring the 51K5 and 59P7 over for safety.

RE the sony, i think i'll give it a go at repairing the board, i'll do it in stages though because its a lot of work and wont wanna loose patience with it and get sloppy.

I spent many many hours in front of this same model TV when at my Nannys every weekend so I'd love to get it going again for nostalgias sake

[Heatercathodeshort]

I would have a go at repairing that PC.
Many years ago I had a BUSH 14" colour portable in for repair that had been dropped. The line output transformer was smashed off the PC board and there was a lot more damage than your example. Luckily your print, like the BUSH is thick and widely spaced so I would imagine the repair should be a straightforward one.
The customer was not insured so I suggested I gave it a go. This is what I did.
First of all I removed the LOPT from the piece of board that was still attached to the base of the LOPT. I then lined up the several broken sections just to test it was complete thus having a chance of the sections lining up OK. I then used Araldite to glue the PC together and luckily the sections 'clicked' together.
I left it overnight then scraped away the solder resist with a fibre pen. With that finished I soldered tinned copper wire overlapping the cracks in the print by about a quarter to half an inch. The LOPT was refitted and the chassis powered up. 100% success! A couple of coats of RadioSpares insulation varnish and the BUSH 6004 [actually a SABA chassis] was soak tested for a few days.
I had shown the customer the before and after repair and to be honest he could not believe I had managed to repair it. It worked for many years after that!

The problem with the SONY is the delicate internals of the Trinitron tube. It doesn't take much to bend the vertical internal wires that form beam landing giving a rainbow effect to the picture. If it has had a heavy bash, this may well of happened. Just a suggestion. John.

[gallowfields]

i would have a go at doing that you have nothing to lose [just your time and material] but as said prevoiusly the crt may have shadowmask damage ?i repaired lots with worse cracks and found that the best way on the very fine print is to trace back to a suitable connection point and use thin flexible wire to another point at the other side of the break obviously on the thicker print single strand solid wire to give a bit of strength

[IKC2E51R8]

Im definatly going to try repair it, ive repaired similar damage before on a Philips set and that was loaded with pesky SMD components making it very difficult but thankfully Sony steered clear of that with this chassis.

I've found a supplier that has a complete Chassis assembly available to order from Sony apperantly, so if it doesnt work out there is another option

[Maarten]

Aswo seems to have the D board assembly available as special order (though they might tell you it's not available anymore from Sony once you actually order it) for the low low price of less than 300 euro before taxes. I think that could be the chassis.

Of course that's not worthwhile, especially as the impressive amount of precision machined metal in the tube has a realistic chance of being bent (tolerances are much less than a millimeter, but sometimes it's possible to mangle the electron beam in such a way that it will actually still produce an acceptable image using magnets and permalloy strips - been there and done that, I think it was a 25" model as well back in the day they were still worth a couple of hours of work to repair).

It would be better anyway to find another set or a used board, though many shops threw them out or exported them (CRT sets, especially Japanese brands, were quite wanted in Africa 10 to 20 years ago).

[simpsons]

Unless you have a particular reason to have a 25" 4:3 aspect ratio Sony and even if you don't, such sets are being given away on Facebook Marketplace and elsewhere because of their physical size.

I had a 32" Sony which had a heart transplant to include dynamic focus, an additional sub woofer using the front speakers as mid range, cutting large chunks of plastic from the back to make it all fit etc. etc; the set was a death trap to the unknowing. Thank goodness it was remote controlled.

I have a Sony 4:3 chassis in the loft which I am sure is complete and over the weekend will check it out and it's yours if it is suitable.

Chris

[Graham G3ZVT]

I've successfully repaired worse PCB damage. The sheer angle of the detached piece will help when you glue it back.

I do however worry about the Trinitron's aperture grille, experience had shown they don't survive the sort of G forces this set has been subjected to.
If it comes to that, finding a cheap non-working set with the same CRT might be easier than another chassis. A local "Collect in person" listing would be good!

[IKC2E51R8]

Originally Posted by simpsons

Unless you have a particular reason to have a 25" 4:3 aspect ratio Sony and even if you don't, such sets are being given away on Facebook Marketplace and elsewhere because of their physical size.

I have a Sony 4:3 chassis in the loft which I am sure is complete and over the weekend will check it out and it's yours if it is suitable.

Chris

For reasons of Nostalgia that why I want it, spent a lot of my early teens years in front of the same model set.

if you could check your chassis and if its a BE-3D I'd love to have it.

[IKC2E51R8]

Originally Posted by rambo1152

I've successfully repaired worse PCB damage. The sheer angle of the detached piece will help when you glue it back.

I do however worry about the Trinitron's aperture grille, experience had shown they don't survive the sort of G forces this set has been subjected to.
If it comes to that, finding a cheap non-working set with the same CRT might be easier than another chassis. A local "Collect in person" listing would be good!

I've begun attempting to repair it and so far so good, its not nearly as difficult as Philips thanks to having no SMD components, however now that I'm getting into it, I'm seeing all the different breaks that i didnt even notice yesterday, all fixable i think but it's a lot.

I'm using wires kindly donated by a Vestel AK20 set that had a smashed tube so if this Sony ever works again could it technically be classed as a
Sony-Vestel

I too have my worries about the tube but considering the rest of the cabinet is in immaculate condition and the tube didnt get to shift about during transport (independant from the cabinet) it might be OK. Main reason I wanna get the board going again even just to tell if the tube is good and then I could focus on a replacement Chassis should one ever appear, though this model seems rare (at least in Ireland) I've seen a few of them on eBay UK over the last few months, the seller that sold me this one was the only one willing to have it sent abroad

[ben]

About ten years back my inlaws' sony set died (akb blanked the tube, reddish raster). I am pretty sure I kept the chassis. I am also fairly sure the model was the same. Please post some pics of the set so I can check!

[Red to black]

One thing on this particular chassis to note is that it remembers its last trip/error state, ie. if it tripped because of a faulty lopt it will remain in that state even if a new one was fitted!
You have to enter the service mode and clear the error memory/buffer before it would work again! First one I repaired caused considerable problems to say the least! Just a quirk of that chassis.

[IKC2E51R8]

Originally Posted by ben

About ten years back my inlaws' sony set died (akb blanked the tube, reddish raster). I am pretty sure I kept the chassis. I am also fairly sure the model was the same. Please post some pics of the set so I can check!

Hi Ben

Here's the pics of it from the eBay listing, cant get pics of the set now as im mid way through working on it and isnt really accessible to turn it to take a decent photo.

Its a KV-25X1U - Any of the sets with the same chassis should do fine, BE-3D.

[IKC2E51R8]

Originally Posted by Red to black

One thing on this particular chassis to note is that it remembers its last trip/error state, ie. if it tripped because of a faulty lopt it will remain in that state even if a new one was fitted!
You have to enter the service mode and clear the error memory/buffer before it would work again! First one I repaired caused considerable problems to say the least! Just a quirk of that chassis.

It might not be an issue because i dont think most of the power even made it to the processor on the A board. The cracks im working on right now are the pins for the A-Board onto the main board, theres a crack severing nearly every connection line. beginning to doubt if this particular chassis will ever work again.

[IKC2E51R8]

So far ive got 13 wires attached remaking the connections for the broken traces -Not including where the main break is at the flyback

[IKC2E51R8]

Originally Posted by Maarten

Aswo seems to have the D board assembly available as special order (though they might tell you it's not available anymore from Sony once you actually order it) for the low low price of less than 300 euro before taxes. I think that could be the chassis.

Ive found it 'Available' on Spares2Repair.co.uk also so perhaps it is still available to order. I dont have access to ASWO as its trade only and I dont have a trade account. I wouldnt pay that much for it anyway though, madness.

[IKC2E51R8]

Ok, so I've made progress, I think I have everything wired up with perhaps on or two bits missing. The set comes on and accepts commands from the front because the LED responds when theyre being touched. Now there is no picture at all, there is thermal tube noise and the flyback is working, the heaters are lit the usual orange glow, there seems to be no deflection at all happening so im thinking either I missed one of the connections or one of the connections came loose as i was mounting the board back into its holder

[John123]

Feed a signal in and then try advancing the Screen/ G2 control on the flyback. It may have also taken a knock.

[IKC2E51R8]

Originally Posted by John123

Feed a signal in and then try advancing the Screen/ G2 control on the flyback. It may have also taken a knock.

Screen control on this is on the neck board, tried adjusting and nothing.

Coil L804 beside the Horizontal Driver transformer is getting warm after its been on for a couple mins, i think one or more of the connections have come loose around the flyback area either that or I missed one of the connections