Basic test equipment to start with.

[Skywave]

Fault-finding: like any detective work, you have to search for all the clues. That search usually involves taking measurements, but don't overlook the 'test equipment' you were born with: eye-sight, hearing, sense of touch (e.g. temperature, vibration, etc.). Occasionally, even your sense of smell can be indicative. And finally, experience - which usually has been learnt 'the hard way' - something that money can't buy.

Al.

[The Philpott]

I know the list could be endless, but if we're talking about electronics, a can of freeze spray to cool down and improve the performance of a defective component can help with tricky troubleshooting.
Dave

[majoconz]

To add to what Skywave said - Scroggies "Foundations of Wireless" was our text book back in 1963/4/5 when studying for a Marine Radio Officers ticket. To fix anything on a ship with nothing much more than an "Avominor", the service manuals and a locker of basic spares was the aim and it was drummed into us - "Tis better to know what your test equipment cannot do than to not know what it can do"

[avocollector]

One thing I did not notice (apologies if it's there) but when you buy your multimeter get a cheapo one and use that initially - I don't know how many I've repaired that someone tried to measure mains voltage with the meter on resistance setting and thereby released the magic smoke!!

It can always happen even to the experienced of course but later on after a few months (like picking up the soldering iron by the wrong end when it's on) far less frequently

[threeseven]

Don't want to cover ground already covered above. However, I will recommend a good, well priced, well made and safe DMM, the Brymen BM235. You won't need anything better for some time. The trick with DMM's is the quality of input protection, the really cheapo one's have almost useless circuitry in this area so are susceptable to sending up smoke signals when used on higher voltages, fuses are also an issue, again, cheapo one's have useless glass types which can and do explode, which will at a minimum destroy the meter. The Brymen has a well designed and made input section and proper HRC fuses. Oh yes, whilst the test leads that are supplied with the Brymen are ok, they are PVC covered, so go for some silicone leads which will not melt when the soldering iron attacks them, I would recommend Probe Master, but Brymen do an upgrade silicone lead set too, which is very good and well priced. An analogue meter is also useful and I concur with all the recommendations for the Avo 8, very useful for old valve stuff as it was the meter used originall for all the voltage readings seen in service info. A modern DMM will give higher readings due to their significantly higher input resistance.

[kellys_eye]

I learned about radio (reception and transmission) when training as a radio operator (merchant marine) and we learned to fault find using:

an AVO,
a signal injector (built during training) and
a simple diode probe (again built during training)

The oscilloscope was barely mentioned and only came into more common use when we moved on to radar servicing and more so when they went 'digital'.

Fault finding was more 'technique' than tools (although you couldn't get far without the tools of course!).

[David Simpson]

Nick, a VMARS chum of mine tells me that there is a small, but keen band of Amateur Radio enthusiasts on the IOM. Some with a leaning towards vintage radio & electronics. Might be worth your while to find out where they meet up, and get advice & possible mentoring. ARS's often hold practical electronics training sessions for aspiring members.
My main advice is still to take a trip to Golborne, and you may well meet up with some of the knowledgable stalwarts who are advising you in this thread. By concenus, the advice has been to definitely acquire a decent AVO8 MK3 or close sibling. The cut-out trip facility is a great boon to novice users of test eq. By all means, purchase a basic "Solon" type soldering iron & get to know it's limitations, whilst developing your soldering skills. Get your hands on a wrecked radio chassis & practice on de-soldering & soldering tag strips, valve holders,etc. & using good old 60/40 flux-cored solder. More modern "lead-free" soldered circuitry is a different ball-game, and this Forum is awash with advice in previous threads over the years. Then - consider splashing out on a decent soldering station with all the advantages of temp. control & digital display, and interchangeable bits.

Regards, David