Panel Artwork - an easy option

[6SN7WGTB]

I have made dozens of devices over the years which make use of typically Eddystone/Hammond boxes.

They look quite professional in those boxes, but for the fact that I've generally had no panel artwork.

I recently made a Signature Tracer, which has quite a few inputs/outputs and adjustments, and this spurred me to try a new idea, to me anyway.

I created artwork in a drawing programme and printed out in colour. I used a laser but with this technique inkjet would be just as good (if not potentially crisper with best paper etc.).

Then I laminated it and cut it down to have a small (2mm) border (to prevent delaminating) and punched holes where things needed to come out (here the delamination isn't an issue as the switch/pot nut holds the lamination together).

Then a touch of UHU to glue down and the job is done. Nothing irreversible so easy to remove and modify.

Here are a couple of examples. With the one showing an LED indicator, I make the artwork hole say 2mm bigger than the LED so I can punch a hole in the laminated sheet say 1mm bigger and again retain a slight 'edge' of lamination to stop it coming apart.

EDIT: another benefit is that you can add drill guides to a version of the artwork and tape it on - thus being assured that things line up!

[stevehertz]

Fantastic work, very professional, well done!

[Pamphonica]

Nice idea! When I last did fancy front panels I used a colour laser printer onto film with a self-adhesive backing. However, the printed top surface was unprotected so could wear off. I also tried with mirror printing on OHP film so the legends were underneath, but found that the glue showed up in transparent areas.
Your method is crisp and durable and simple - well done.

[wireless_john]

I have always printed mine with whatever printer I had to hand and then covered it with sticky backed clear plastic. Then glued it onto the aluminium. What you're doing is very good though. Given me some new ideas!

John

[sortedradio]

That looks very good! I must give this a try, I need to get a laminator first. What did you use to punch the holes cleanly?

[6SN7WGTB]

Originally Posted by sortedradio

That looks very good! I must give this a try, I need to get a laminator first. What did you use to punch the holes cleanly?

Good Q - I have a 3-10mm punch set which I bought to punch holes in fabric for the missus. Just use a block of hard wood underneath so you get a clean cut.

They're widely available, and usually fairly crap when they arrive as they're a cheap and nasty product.

However, honing them up makes the world of difference and they punch the thin laminate very cleanly.

[Lloyd 1985]

Nice work!

Where I work we make labels for our products on some A5 label paper, it’s a kind of plastic type stuff with the feel of normal paper, it goes through the photocopier, which is just a big laser printer, and then we laminate it by hand with some very tough hard wearing clear stuff, I’ll have to see if I can get any part numbers off it when I go back in the new year!

Regards
Lloyd

[Vintage Engr]

I've also been using this method for a few years now, & as long as the ink is good quality, I've not experienced any problems with fading.

(Unlike the Sifam meter on my Ferrograph RTS2, which has almost completely faded out!).

David.

[markfff]

Nice! Just the excuse I need to buy a laminator

[wireman]

As an alternative, it could be worth trying outdoor laser printer labels. I use the following for adding images and description of tools onto Makita Makpak cases:

https://www.herma.co.uk/office-home/...-film-a4-9534/

[retailer]

I've been making paper artwork for front panels for some years now - I print, give it a light coat of clear varnish and then a few heavier coats before gluing it down, this had worked well and looks perfectly OK, for large front panels I take the file to office works and have them print it for me.

I 'm converting a manual milling machine to CNC and have reached the point where it is operational, the plan for future projects is to engrave front panels.

[Gabe001]

I used a similar technique to make a temporary badge for a transistor black box. The ink has 'flowed' slightly with time so the text edges are no longer crisp, using a standard inkjet printer on photo paper and varnish. I think a laser printer is the best choice.

[6SN7WGTB]

Originally Posted by Gabe001

I used a similar technique to make a temporary badge for a transistor black box. The ink has 'flowed' slightly with time so the text edges are no longer crisp, using a standard inkjet printer on photo paper and varnish. I think a laser printer is the best choice.

I think the solution to this, assuming you don't have a laser, is to use 'matte coated paper'.

I use some old Epson paper of that ilk (at leats 15 years old!) in my inkjet and it is super crisp and doesn't creep/bleed. It's got a fine clay powder coating that I imagine absorbs and 'sets' the ink,

Oddly, of the very many papers I have, it's the best I have found in the LASER for PCB transfer printing! The coating seems to bond well to the PCB through the laminator and also when you wash the pape roff the whole track comes clean off of the paper backing. Sorry, off-topic...

[Gabe001]

My theory, as yet untested, is that the varnish used to protect the ink can actually dissolve the ink to some extent. Unvarnished photo paper prints in frames etc don't seem to have this problem. Still, just a theory. It could well be the photo paper or the ink.

I have done the same with those "click" switch domes under it, that does need a flexible cover, Sellotape works for prototypes.

[retailer]

Originally Posted by Gabe001

My theory, as yet untested, is that the varnish used to protect the ink can actually dissolve the ink to some extent. Unvarnished photo paper prints in frames etc don't seem to have this problem. Still, just a theory. It could well be the photo paper or the ink.

My experience leads me to believe this is correct, that is why the first coat or two is only very light, once they dry then more 'normal' coats can be applied to give some measure of protection, dirty finger prints etc are much easier to clean off.

[Radio1950]

The OP looks good.

I just use a vector drawing application, print on photo paper, and use 2mm Lexan over the cutup.
The artwork on ordinary paper is also a drilling guide
Very durable, changeable, sharp lettering, and non fading.

Two examples attached.

[keland_uk]

A different approach using a 3D printer (well any excuse to buy one )

Early days, Obviously limitations. These are using a .4mm nozzle, using a satin sheet and a .25mm nozzle would give a crisper finish, but take longer...

PETG strings a bit so you can get "birdies" in the face of it....

[markfff]

Originally Posted by keland_uk

A different approach using a 3D printer (well any excuse to buy one )

Looks good!

I use one too, but print on glass so the bottom surface is smooth, and use that as the visible face of the panel. I like how yours have the textured face, how do you do that?

[keland_uk]

Its the textured sheet from Prusa... so not by design on my part, I had hoped the top surface could be used, but even with the "ironing" facility of the prusa its not half as good as printing it upside down.... maybe I need to learn how do some sanding...
I have a satin finish sheet, just haven't had a chance to see how it works. (The Smooth one is a pain because of the PETG Sticking and having to use glue to ensure it comes off)

Utilised a Stainless steel pole wall support for my stereo Microscope by 3D printing an inner for the pole. Obviously not just for Facia's....