Metamec alarm clock with light refurb

[Luxman1050]

Hi all
got this for 20 quid thought was a bargain not working except light. I need to remove the back so I can test the coil and check working components. I have spare coils and internal cogs if they need replacing l. The brass dials on back can you just pull these off or is it pull and unscrew anti clockwise?
Obviously don't want to break them I do remember this type as a kid and just pulling one off and breaking it so don't want to repeat that. No model number but think looking at colour and style prob 60s early 70s.

Any advice most welcome. I've WD40d them should loosen them up a bit.

Couple pics will need a clean but it will look like new once I've finished with it.

[emeritus]

I use petrol lighter fluid for cleaning clock mechanisms. More penetrating than WD 40. Relubricate with the smallest smears of a proper clock oil. Not cheap but a 1oz bottle lasts decades.

[Robsradio]

I can see a couple that have a ‘split’ shaft below the knurl, if they are all split then they will be a push on friction fit, so a careful pull should remove them.
Don’t use WD40 inside the movement, use clock oil and a light grease where applicable.
Nice looking bit of retro though

[Luxman1050]

Cheers guys
I was not using wd40 to oil parts just to penetrate the knobs on back. They did pull off but it was a slow process.
I thought the housing would just pull off nope it's all housed in the main body so have had to remove everything just to see the mechanism which again is attached to the housing.
A part has fallen off probably why it's not working. Was surprised as theres no plastic cogs all metal I assume because it has an alarm and there is a flick switch I think that's to start it up?
Measured coil getting 7.40k ohms which same as my other ones. But this looks like its gonna be hard work getting the mech out not sure where to start my others where just remove back and done.
Pic attached plus to left is part that's fallen of its brass arm with metal contact attached to it. Plus you have which I think is the stopper for turning the alarm on and off pull up and push down. If I was to remove the nuts you can see I think it might just pull out except the arm of the alarm stopper is protruding about 5mm outside casing so that's gonna stop you pulling it out. There also seems to be stoppers at base of casing which the mech sits on.
Not sure how to takle this one!!!!
I'll have a good look and think ew.

[Mike Phelan]

Nice looking clock!

The brass dials on back

Eh? What do you mean by this?
Too late now, but WD40 shouldn't be anywhere a clock!
No grease or oil on the wheels (cogs are for old mangles) just pivots.
The coil seems as though it's intact so a strip and clean should be fine.
Both hands just pull off with a bit of persuasion.

[Luxman1050]

No wd40 is anywhere on mech just knobs on back so could prize them off gently without breaking the shafts.
Coil is fine I think I need to remove that silver plate which will allow me to remove that on /off shaft then whole unit should slip out hopefully. I also need to find out where that part goes that's come off unable to find any pics of this particular metamec mechanism.

[Luxman1050]

okay guys pick your brains all dismantled all in good shape.
Now the bit that came off is on a splined shaft and is the tick on/off I can see where it goes but not sure which way round it's supposed to go.
Pics attached.
pic 1 tick mech and splined shaft
pic to is where it goes does it sit with screw up or down and should that metal bit be to the left or right?
Any ideas?
cheers Chris

[Robsradio]

I would say the screw should face down with the steel part under the centre of the knurled brass bush. I don't have one and have never seen the movement before, but the knurled bush would serve no other reason than to ping the steel part and make a ticking noise. It is not required for the clock to work though, only for a sound effect.

[Luxman1050]

Cheers Rob yeah it seems a simple device and if I cannot set it up right I'll disconnect it. There is a bar to the left which screws up and down to left of knutled cog which is slightly bent towards the cog and its marked as stop tick on back so I was wondering if the metal bit is set beside that and it pushes the spring back and forth. I'll try that in a bit. If that don't work leave it out I think.

[Luxman1050]

Okay guys alls working fine except I've disconnected the tick as to be honest why would you want a ticking on your bedside cabinet? Drive you nuts worse than trying to count sheep.
Anyhow some pics attached of clock cleaned up not fully put together as I'm waiting on some new flex.
I'll post pic of finished product when all put together.
It's nice mix of brass and chrome.
One question is it had an earth strap connected to the nut connecting the light to the main base foot. Is that safe?

Cheers Chris

[julie_m]

Would that earth strap win in a fight with the plug fuse?

That's what it's there for: to ensure the plug fuse blows (leaving everything else plugged into the rest of the same ring circuit OK) if a live wire comes adrift inside the clock or the lamp housing and touches the metalwork.

I guess the ticking might be beneficial to someone used to wind-up alarm clocks.

[Luxman1050]

Ha ha ha I like that phrase but a valid point.
Anyhow she's all working, cleaned, relubed, metal work polished and re wired with the earth attached in case I lose the fight ha ha.
Still has original Osram 25 watt bulb as seen still working and what surprised me was the facia is actually domed glass as opposed to plastic.
The alarm works well and will definitely wake you up possibly with mild heart attack ha ha.

Very happy with result going from an old bit of grubby looking not working clock to something which will now sit on my bedside cabinet without the click!!!!

Anybody have any idea of model or date?

All internals are metal no plastic whatsoever as I was told on here different thread plastic was not used in Metemec clock mechanisms until 1950s?

Cheers Chris

Modern safety standards don't allow exposed single insulated mains cable. Safe enough in my mind though.

[Luxman1050]

I agree.
Blood- pain in the ars- The alarm is out of synch with the time not quite sure how I re sync that.
Any ideas anyone?
I suppose I would have to say set alarm at 3 when it goes off switch it off then take main clock hands off and set them at 3. Would that work?

Never thought of that when putting arms back on.

Oh the joy of repair and restoration.

[Mike Phelan]

Originally Posted by cdm1christopher

I agree.
Blood- pain in the ars- The alarm is out of synch with the time not quite sure how I re sync that.
Any ideas anyone?
I suppose I would have to say set alarm at 3 when it goes off switch it off then take main clock hands off and set them at 3. Would that work?

Never thought of that when putting arms back on.

Oh the joy of repair and restoration.

That is indeed the best way to set the alarm hand, Christopher. Best do in at a specific hour so the minute and hour hands coincide.
Removable arms, eh? Interesting!

[Luxman1050]

Thanks for backing up my thoughts. All done only took 15 minutes as I had to take it all apart.
What's interesting about push on dials Mike?
The alarm hand has a very long shaft on it and will only press down fully when you've allocated what seems to be a slot. Otherwise it will not fully depress onto to outer spindle.
Clocks are not my expertise just a sudden interest in electric mechanisms.

Cheers Chris

[Luxman1050]

Forgot to ask why does this mech have a start switch? Just a piece of thin metal on a shaft and as you turn the dial it flicks the flywheel to get it moving. The other mechs just have a is it a worm with plastic arm which stops wheel from going backwards.

[Luxman1050]

I think post can now be closed.