Cable and plug for Wartime Civilian Receiver?

[stevehertz]

As I said earlier, just google 5A round pin mains plug, and click on 'images'. There you'll see various plugs of the genre (two and three pin) and also one or two adapters too. Example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-5-Amp-...-/350895124829

[andycapp]

Thanks Steve

[Heatercathodeshort]

Hello Andy,
A 5amp 'Clix' plug as suggested would be very suitable. A simple adaptor, known as a 'shaver adaptor' can be obtained very cheaply to safely connect your wartime receiver to the mains. I presume it has been fully serviced as connecting it without a check over could be dangerous and may cause damage to components. The adaptor is fused at 1 amp and that should be OK but you can substitute a 2amp fuse if after servicing the radio, you suffer from nuisance fuse blowing.
As you can see, mine is connected in true vintage style to a Christmas tree of period adaptors but I would not suggest you go to these lengths. This sort of behaviour is only allowed to be carried out by old television engineers with a resident nurse in attendance.... Regards, John.

[andycapp]

Absolutely love the first pic John, reminds me of National Lampoons Christmas Vacation, cheers

[Herald1360]

Love the Christmas tree- there's nothing wrong with that setup if it's all fed from a 5A fuse!

I'd prefer to see no inners though at the back of the Clix- it looks tidier even if it's not really any safer

[Brigham]

Letting the inners show proves that the colours are correct. It's difficult to obtain red & black flexibles in anything other than black PVC, which is a poor substitute for cotton braid.

My answer is to use modern braided flex, and sleeve the new colours with heat-shrink tubing in red & black. One could possibly be forgiven for allowing just a little amount to show.

[GEC 1972]

The adaptor tree looks great!! I'm in process of changing my radio plugs over to more period items, especially some of the mains/battery portables that have storage locations for the round pin plugs and bayonet adaptors.
One thing I've found with the round or oval profile cable that has the braided covering is to use a 1/2" band of self adhesive heat shrink over the ends, stops the covering sliding back up the cable and looks like the old rubber sleeving they used to put on the ends originally.

[stevehertz]

We're all different. Although I'm quite a stickler for nice original sets in good original condition etc, the mains lead issue does worry me a jot so long as it is safe and sound. To that end I regularly fit plastic sheathed three core cable to sets to upgrade them (added earth where applicable/beneficial) and make them safe by removing tired, cracked, rubber insulated, cotton covered cable. To me, the mains lead is dressed behind the set and not seen anyway, so it's not an issue - again, to me. Also, although replacement pseudo cotton covered cable is available it doesn't really look like the old stuff anyway, so the intention is kinda lost; just like plastic cable it screams 'replacement'. But I totally accept other people's view on the subject, just to say that 'originality' as applied to a vintage wireless set has numerous takes, limits and focus points. For example, some collectors/restorers would happily use the wrong knobs but insist on the 'correct' mains cable. It's interesting how we all differ on the issue.

[boxdoctor]

Andy,
For the sake of originality, if you do decide to fit a 5 amp plug, avoid the "Clix" type with the split pins, as I'm pretty sure they appeared in the early 'fifties. Certainly not before/during the war.
I remember my father "installing" a power point for our radio (Marconi 272) in the 1940's consisting of a length of cloth and rubber-covered cable as described above connected heavens knows where above the ceiling, and brought down in the corner of the chimney-breast. This was terminated in a bayonet bulb holder, and the radio connected to that. Tony.

[Radio_Dave]

This is a public forum and I think it should be mentioned, to those who are unaware, that modern three pin plugs have insulated pins to prevent the chance of electrocution. Older plugs, without insulated pins, can electrocute you if you are not careful while plugging them in.

There'll be some who'll say they were safe in their day, but they weren't and that's why they got replaced. If anything they are even more dangerous in this day and age because of modern earth bonding and other earthed equipment.

David

[Brigham]

Sleeved pins have been around for a long time, and are marginally safer than the ordinary type. Now that the manufacturing process has been perfected, BS 1363 has been amended to incorporate them, on a 'might as well have it as not' basis. They remain optional on BS546 plugs, the benefit presumably not being worth the additional cost of re-tooling.

Anyone thinking that unsleeved pins are in any way 'lethal', or unacceptably 'dangerous' is going to find it difficult to justify plugging-in any piece of equipment of interest to the users of this forum, and can contribute only to the eventual suppression of the hobby on the spurious grounds of 'safety'.

[petertheorgan]

Well said!

[Station X]

Enough said too I think. Please let's not let this thread become a discussion about H&S.

t would clearly not be any sort of 13A 'ring main' type. To fit such a thing would be a great disgrace!

As the 13A system was 'invented' before the end of WW2 it is possible that a civilian set may have had a 13A plug fitted by its new owner.

[Station X]

Two off topic posts deleted. Please stay on topic.

As the title says this thread is about mains cables and plugs for a WTCR.

andycapp. If you're planning to repair this set yourself please start a new thread in this section. Members will be only too willing to give you all the advice you need.

[ex 2 Base]

Regarding 13 amp socket outlet and plugs. The report came out in 1947 BS1363 and the ring circuit controlled by a single 30 amp fuse. At the time voltage was nominal 230 which allowed a 3kw load per socket outlet/plug. Having tested 13 amp sockets on a 3kw resistive load they get very hot after a short time.Ted

[Heatercathodeshort]

The WCV was not released untill very late in the war, 1944 I believe. Most were sold after VE day in 1945 and a large number had to be modified to receive the Light Programme on Long Wave where reception was poor on Medium Wave.
Almost any type of plug would have been fitted that matched a convenient socket including BC lamp adaptors. It's difficult for Forum members who did not carry out house service calls to understand the wiring situation just after the war and well into the 1960's. Most houses were not rewired untill appliances such as washing machines were becoming common place. Sleeved plugs, earth bonding etc was the last thing on peoples minds when their homes could have been blown up at any moment. [Ask my old mum and grandparents..] John.

[andycapp]

Did I do something wrong with my last post and the one before that. I didn't ask for anything only opinions, I put 5 pics up, for opinions. judging by the replies everyone was happy to see and read them. Do tell if I have been out of place, Andy

[AC/HL]

You raised this thread with the title "Cable and plug for Wartime Civilian Receiver". This is what is being discussed.
The posts in question changed the subject to the lettering on the valves, and the general condition of the chassis. These are quite valid points for discussion, but not here.

The Forum is a permanent resource, but is searchable only if discussions relate to the titles. A common comment posted is "I've seen it somewhere on here, but can't find it now"

[G6Tanuki]

I'd be wondering if it would be possible to arrange a modern, safe 3-core double-sheathed mains lead and modern fused plug for real-world use, but also have a dummy cloth-covered-2-core flex-and-classic-plug (or bayonet lampholder-adaptor) - wholly not connected to anything inside the radio or to the pins of the plug - for display purposes?

That would be a convenient acceptance of both requirements.

There's enough space inside the back cover that if you wanted to use the radio purely for display purposes you could coil up the 'real' power-lead and tuck it safely inside where it would not be accessible without use of tools.