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Cabinet and Chassis Restoration and Refinishing For help with cabinet or chassis restoration (non-electrical), please leave a message here. |
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25th Dec 2019, 4:54 pm | #21 |
Dekatron
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Location: Sleaford, Lincs. UK.
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Joe is right, I put ali chassis's and the paint tins to the side of my open fire for 30 mins before spraying, then a quick wipe with a tack cloth.
Another tip is to make a spray booth out of a big cardboard box, this can be closed after spraying to stop hairs and other crap getting on the surface. With spray cans spraying from the right distance (and speed) determines what sort of finish you get, it's a good idea to use a good nozzle too, the ones that spray a "flat" spray are good, clean with thinners afterwards. Lastly always start spraying from the side, thing to be sprayed vertical, start at the bottom and move up making sure you've got good coverage; it's a good idea to do a test panel first. Andy.
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25th Dec 2019, 5:29 pm | #22 |
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Don't try for total opacity in one coat. Make your first coat cover everything with a uniform degree of opacity, leave it a while to flash off solvent, spray another similar layer, and keep repeating until you have full opacity. It's a common mistake to try to lay the whole lot down in one pass.
Remember that the solvents are highly inflammable and that you can reach explosive proportions before you notice...qv the recent news article on the smoker who'd used a lot of air freshener in his car before lighting up. It blew the car apart with him in it and damaged windows in nearby buildings. Good ventilation is rather important. David
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28th Dec 2019, 4:49 pm | #23 |
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Scimitar (post #11) and others , I’m following this with interest. If I brush or roller Lechler, do the rugosities or brush-strokes flatten out by themselves?
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Al |
29th Dec 2019, 11:47 am | #24 |
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
I just learned a new word!
I wonder if the etymology has similar origins to rug as in carpet?
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30th Dec 2019, 12:27 am | #25 | |
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Quote:
... as well as more casually to describe variations in texture - and also in some aspects of complexity science.
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Al Last edited by Al (astral highway); 30th Dec 2019 at 12:33 am. |
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30th Dec 2019, 6:47 am | #26 |
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
So etched foil capacitors are all about achieving more capacitance through rugosity.
Useful! I'll write it down in my vocabulary book David
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30th Dec 2019, 11:01 am | #27 | |
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Quote:
How about *rugulose*? The more *rugulose* an etched foil anode, the greater the capacitance .... or should that be ‘the more *rugose*, yet another one starting with rug- These two are just distinguished apart by relative fine-ness or coarseness of wrinkle and don’t express things mathematically. Only rugosity has that capability. Let’s give a big hand to the nuances of Latinate words !
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Al Last edited by Al (astral highway); 30th Dec 2019 at 11:21 am. |
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30th Dec 2019, 11:39 am | #28 | |
Heptode
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Quote:
It is to do with how fast the solvents evaporate. The slower the evaporation, the better the flow out. If it dries too fast, there is not enough time for it to do so. You will see that problem with water based domestic paints. It is unlikely that you will get a perfect surface when brushing or rollering, so expect to flat it back after curing (12 hours ish). I would use 120 grit dry before painting, then 320 grit dry followed by 500 and then 800 but finishing at 500 will do for most non metallic finishes. |
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30th Dec 2019, 12:30 pm | #29 |
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Thank you , Scimitar, this is very helpful. I’ll add ‘flow-out’ to my vocab!
A few more Q’s: 1) what’s the difference between two-part epoxy primer like Lechler and two-part epoxy resin adhesive? 2) can I successfully apply two-part epoxy primer as a finishing coat over cured yacht varnish? (This is for a historic reason, not starting from scratch) 3) And, when I do want a finishing coat, what is a good brand / source of small quantities of finishing coat to brush over the cured Lechler? This is for small areas but with a high aesthetic impact. Heat resistance is ideal.
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Al |
30th Dec 2019, 1:43 pm | #30 | ||
Heptode
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Quote:
Quote:
Anything you like. The epoxy primer is inert and so aerosol car paint or anything else you choose will go on without issue. If you want it classy, I would go to a car paint supplier and get an aerosol made up of a metallic basecoat that you like and an aerosol of 1K lacquer. |
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30th Dec 2019, 1:50 pm | #31 |
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Thank you Scimitar.
On 1), since they’re closely related, can I use the primer as an adhesive in some circumstances ? The Lechler is costly and it’s ideal if I can double up .
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Al |
30th Dec 2019, 2:34 pm | #32 |
Heptode
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Location: Gloucestershire, UK.
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
No, it's too thin.
The Lechlar is about £15 per litre including the hardener when bought as a 2:1 litre. I use Express Paints in the south somewhere. |
30th Dec 2019, 4:22 pm | #33 |
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Nice, that’s very reasonable . Cheers
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Al |
31st Dec 2019, 11:02 pm | #34 |
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
It depends a lot what base metal you are dealing with.
If it is a cast aluminium like metal it can be very difficult to get the new paint to stick well without an etch prime. I use Alodine which is used in the aircraft industry to prepare aluminium part prior to painting and then, for a task like a turntable (say a Garard 301 or similar) I have used enamel spray, VHT is by far the better spray enamel because you can bake it in a domestic oven, 80 to 90 Deg C is fine. And it sticks is very well to the primer and goes rock hard and scratch resistant with a nice gloss finish that looks like a professional paint job. If it's Steel its a whole different ball of wax because you have rust to contend with. If it is not practical to take it to the electroplaters (have all rust removed and zinc plated) I use Fertan organic rust converter. Then directly over that I would use Holts automotive spray lacquer as it sticks very well to the Fertan film on the surface. If you have a look at the small Mullard speaker in the TRF radio I made recently on another thread, it was very rusty, treated with Fertan and sprayed with Holts brown metallic lacquer to restore its finish. |
31st Dec 2019, 11:51 pm | #35 | |
Heptode
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Quote:
It really is a wonder material, if you have no experience of it, I recommend that you test it for yourself. It doesn't contain isocyanates, so no special PPE required, even for spraying. |
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1st Jan 2020, 12:56 am | #36 |
Nonode
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire, UK.
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
I'd endorse the recommendation to use high temprature paint for spraying aluminium. After some experimentation with various paints I stripped and sprayed the Roberts R505 grille shown in the attached photo with PlastiKote Wood Stove. It needed baking to harden the paint but the outcome is close to the original satin finish and the paint adheres really well. The fact that it initially dries soft, but with good adhesion, also helps greatly when peeling off the modellers' masking tape.
Alan |
1st Jan 2020, 2:00 am | #37 |
Octode
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Bristol, UK.
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Not too off-topic for this thread I hope, but can any one give any tips for touching-up the engraved (and then 'picked out' with paint) lettering on a metal panel once it's painted?
Mike |
1st Jan 2020, 10:13 am | #38 | |
Heptode
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Quote:
Back in about 1961 I worked in a laboratory and was testing the physical properties of aerosol cans for pharmaceutical use. One test involved placing the cans in a temperature controlled very hot waterbath. A colleague removed one of the cans to apply a pressure gauge to the nozzle, but accidentally dropped the can. The explosion was deafening, the base flew off the can and hit him in a very sensitive place. It was quite amusing to the others in the lab but the poor chap needed hospital attention.
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2nd Jan 2020, 11:11 am | #39 | ||
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
Quote:
The issue is , as pointed out by others, a paint job is no better than the surface it sits on. Unless the paint is abomanably thick & ugly. For a proper finish it requires the surface is finished to at least the texture seen with 1200 to 2000 grade paper, or either the thick paint masks the scoring from the 120 grade paper or the correct thickness paint shows the scoring from the 120 paper. So you cannot have it both ways. |
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11th Jan 2020, 4:31 pm | #40 |
Dekatron
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Re: Re-spraying record decks.
What do people recommend for stripping paint completely? I used to use methylene chloride type stripper but it is not great for the health or environment and I don’t know if we have less noxious but equally efficient agents at our disposal ?
It was banned by the US Environmental Protection Agency (way out of UK jurisdiction , I know, but it suggests how nasty it is)
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Al |