Ekco Consort U76 - dial problem

[Silverman166]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bulgaria

I'd enquire with screen printers.

Thanks for that - I've had a look at diy screen printing, and can't really justify the expenditure, I'm afraid.
Not yet found a local source but will pursue it further.

Peter

[Silverman166]

Thanks, David.

I too had a go with some self adhesive matt white 80gsm paper I have in stock, and got what I consider a decent result.
I wondered whether I could 'get away' with just sticking that directly to the outside of the existing glass, after of course cutting the central slot, and am experimenting with lacquering the image to give what could be a suitable finish.
It could be acceptable, but given Lloyd's comments re- glass fixing method, I reckon maybe I'd be able to sandwich the paper between two sheets as you suggested for perhaps an even better result.
Time will tell!

Regards
Peter

[Nickthedentist]

Originally Posted by David G4EBT

The death knell of glass dials was the influx of Japanese radios using black anodised panels with white print, and most UK radio firms stopped using glass dials.

Many 1970s Japanese tuners used edge-lit, screen-printed, Perspex scales, which gave them a very characteristic, futuristic look, quite unlike the homely backlit glass scales people were more used to.

[David G4EBT]

Originally Posted by Silverman166

Thanks, David.

I too had a go with some self adhesive matt white 80gsm paper I have in stock, and got what I consider a decent result.
I wondered whether I could 'get away' with just sticking that directly to the outside of the existing glass, after of course cutting the central slot, and am experimenting with lacquering the image to give what could be a suitable finish.
It could be acceptable, but given Lloyd's comments re- glass fixing method, I reckon maybe I'd be able to sandwich the paper between two sheets as you suggested for perhaps an even better result.
Time will tell!

Regards
Peter

That sounds like an encouraging result Peter!

I think if it was sandwiched between two sheets of 2mm glass it might be more durable, but if you’re happy with it on the top of the existing glass, maybe sprayed with a couple light coats of clear acrylic lacquer, that would be less hassle. You could try that as a first option, and two sheets of glass as a fall-back option.

[Silverman166]

MORE INFO:-

The attached shows that what remains of the original dial does not match the images sent, and indeed those shown on all other images I've so far found on the internet.

It appears to me that the printing has been overheated, leading to ultimate breakdown and subsequent flaking off. (I believe the set may have been bought/used abroad and possibly have been exposed to high temperature/sunlight which may have contributed to the deterioration).

I have now opened the back of the set and found, as expected, many fragments of the original dial, some large many small, but whether I can remove and re-assemble them to give a better idea of the original is much in doubt (I'm not expecting to be able to use them to re-make the original, just to get a little more info!)

I noticed that someone has pencilled in '455 K/cs' adjacent to the Serial No, which incidentally is E08916.

Extremely doubtful, I know, but I'd be interested to hear if it's be possible to obtain an image of the correct dial?

No offence intended to original responders - I've only just received the actual radio, so apologies.

Peter

[cathoderay57]

Looks like it's the export version. There is an image of one from New Zealand on the RadioMuseum website that appears to be the same as yours. Looks like you might have to appeal to Forum overseas members! https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/ultimate_ekco_u76.html#

[Simon Gittins]

Yes, it must be an export version as you can see "KC" by the M for Medium Wave on yours and the uk version would have the wavelength in metres.
The one on Radiomuseum isn't quite the same as the wavebands are marked A, B and C but it may well be the closest you will find if you don't want to use the uk scale.

[Silverman166]

Thanks for that, cathoderay57 - it's much appreciated.
I've had a close look at the RadioMuseum one, but sadly, whilst similar, it's not quite the same, in that theirs has two horizontal clear viewing bars, whereas mine has just the one, and the various dial markings are different.

Do you know of any overseas forums? I've had no luck so far.

Peter

Thanks also Simon Gittins.

[cathoderay57]

As far as I can make out, Ekco sets were exported to New Zealand, Australia, Europe and possibly South Africa. So, unfortunately for you, the world's your oyster . All I can suggest is that you send a few PMs to our overseas members who will doubtless know of, or be in contact with, their local Forums. Otherwise you could search Google for the Forums. In the end you might have to accept that what you have here is the best you're going to get. Best of luck! Jerry P.S. Since your scale appears to show LW, at least you can eliminate the USA.

[David G4EBT]

Originally Posted by Silverman166

Thanks for that, cathoderay57 - it's much appreciated.
I've had a close look at the RadioMuseum one, but sadly, whilst similar, it's not quite the same, in that theirs has two horizontal clear viewing bars, whereas mine has just the one, and the various dial markings are different.

Do you know of any overseas forums? I've had no luck so far.

Peter

Thanks also Simon Gittins.

You could try the New Zealand Vintage Radio Society - from my limited experience they're very helpful:

You can view as a guest:

https://nzvrs.com

I've had a quick look - nothing here:

https://nzvrs.com/dial-images/

Galleries:

https://nzvrs.com/galleries/

You could join and post a thread:

https://nzvrs.freeforums.net

Hope that might help.

[Silverman166]

Thanks for your help and advice, Jerry.

Regards

Peter

[Silverman166]

Many thanks for that David - will have a go!

Regards

Peter

[David G4EBT]

I think it's worth mentioning, that the only difference between the export model & GB seems to be the dial.

In other respects, the coverage of the three bands and internal circuitry appear to be the same as the one made for the British market. That being so, even if a decent scan of the export dial was located and successfully recreated, what you'd have is a dial marked in frequency rather than wavelength, with no station names. Hence, in a UK setting, not very descriptive.

In contrast, were you to recreate and fit a UK dial, it would be marked in wavelength, with station names that existed back in 1948 and for quite some years to come, such as 'BBC Light, Home, Third, Midlands, North, Scotland', and further afield, 'Paris, Hilversum, Munich, Brussels, Prague, Luxembourg' and so on. Of course, on MW and LW those stations are long gone, and there's little on SW, but a British made vintage radio in a British setting would look more authentic and meaningful with the British dial.

That's just my thoughts - it isn't my radio, but if you do intend to restore it to working order, which is going to require quite a lot of work, I think I'd be focusing my energies on that. To that extent, some comments might be helpful:

Before thinking about plugging it in or replacing any components, some continuity tests will reveal whether the radio will become' a 'money pit'.

If you don't already have the datasheets for the radio, you can obtain them as downloads from the top RH of the forum for £1.99 each.

There are two datasheets - the Maker's and the Trader Sheet. They both run to four pages and I'd suggest you get both rather than one or the other. If you do go ahead with the restoration, both sets of data compliment each other. The Ekco data has a clearer circuit and better layout drawings, whereas the Trader Sheet lists the components, and describes the role of each one, such as 'tone corrector, AGC decoupling, negative feedback coupling' etc. Descriptions which will be obvious to more skilled and experienced restorers, but not to everyone. (When/if you get around the restoring the radio, if you mention any component numbers, do state which datasheet you are using because the Maker's and Trader Sheet numbers differ).

Continuity tests:

The datasheets list the resistance of the wound components. Given the cost of replacement or rewinds, it would be with checking at least the following:

Ecko Datasheet numbering:

Output transformer. (L15)
Smoothing choke (L16)
Heater ballast resistor (mains dropper) R22.
Rectifier surge limiter R21.

If the OPT and/or smoothing choke are open circuit, before diving too deeply into the set, you might want to consider the cost of rewind/replacement if you have a restoration budget in mind. Realistically, unless it's going to be put into use, (which - without Bluetooth or a 'Mini-Mod' whatever - will be limited), it might be enough to just improve the set cosmetically rather than to fully restore it to safe working order.

Check the continuity of the two poles of the mains switch on the volume control.
Check the dial light (6.2V 300mA).

Clean the wave-change switch with switch cleaner and check the continuity of the switch wafers.

As to capacitor replacements - as a minimum, the following should be earmarked for replacement:

C40: Mains RF bypass capacitor. (across the mains input, so must be Class X (0.1uF).
C32 & C34: AF coupling capacitors. May allow DC to pass to the grid of the output valve, overdriving it, risking damage to the output transformer, as with the ill-fated Bush DAC90A (same output valve - UL41).
It's a live chassis radio with an earth and aerial socket. Hence, C4, (0.1uF) the earth isolating capacitor, and C1, (0.001 uF), aerial isolating capacitor are safety components which should be replaced.

Electrolytic capacitors:

C39 (8uF) reservoir capacitor, & C38, (32uF) smoothing capacitor are in one can. They might reform, but if not, will need replacing/stuffing.
C36: V4 cathode bypass capacitor, (50uF) will almost certainly need replacement. (IE: 47uF 25V).

The IF frequency is either 455 or 460kHz, based on whether there's a 'N' or 'S' printed on the back cover and next to the serial number. These alternative IFs were for the north or south of the UK - not between the UK/Export models. How quaint. (N = 650kHz, S = 455kHz). Peter says his has 455 pencilled on.

Valves: At least check the continuity of the heaters of the five valves, which can be done with them in situ.

Hope these wordy notes might be of interest and use.

[Silverman166]

Thanks so much for this most informative post, David.

Having consulted my sister-in-law, I've decided to stick with the UK version of the dial and just do a cosmetic overhaul.

However, since starting the thread, unbelievably another complete radio, with intact UK dial, has fortunately been found and purchased.

It has been a most interesting journey, and I'm so grateful to all who have responded.

It is truly enlightening to know that so many people are willing to share their expertise with others of lesser knowledge.

Thanks again to all concerned.

Peter

[David G4EBT]

Thanks for reading the post Peter.

What a stroke of luck coming across a UK version with an intact dial!

Realistically, you’ll gather from my notes that even a basic restoration would involve quite a lot of work, and not a little expense, albeit not much more complex than say a Bush DAC90A, which many have restored as their first set, even though in some respects, it’s not an ideal choice.