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Old 27th Jun 2006, 8:57 pm   #1
Steve G4WCS
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Default Dark paint for plywood ends and speaker apertures ?

Im after recommendations for a paint to recover the painted unveneered ends and speaker aperture on a woodie.
Any (preferably brush on) recommendations ?

Also a couple of small pieces of veneer have chipped off, is it better to stopper these, or let in a small piece of new veneer, and what is a good glue ?
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Old 27th Jun 2006, 10:16 pm   #2
Radio_Dave
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Default Re: dark paint for plywood ends and speaker apertures ?

Hi Steve,

I never pass my local model shop without buying a tin of 'Humbrol Gloss 10'. It's a good colour brown to start with but I fine tune the colour by adding red, black or both. I have quite a collection of 'modified' tins now . I wet the surrounding veneer with white spirit to give me an idea of what the mixed paint should look like. Use masking tape to give nice straight lines between the plywood end grain and veneer.

For small pieces of missing venner I use a suitably coloured wood filler. When dried and sanded I have a selection of, ordinary, brown felt tip pens which I use to, firstly, adjust the colour of the filler and then to, lightly, draw lines to match the grin of the wood. Rub/smudge with you finger before it dries you'll be surprised how well it can turn out

David
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Old 27th Jun 2006, 11:53 pm   #3
Panrock
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Default Re: dark paint for plywood ends and speaker apertures ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve.collier2
Im after recommendations for a paint to recover the painted unveneered ends and speaker aperture on a woodie.
Any (preferably brush on) recommendations ?
This depends on the shade of the cabinet. I keep a stock of the following car aerosols handy: Russett Brown, Clove Brown, Cafe Noire, Brazil Brown, Maple... I use masking tape etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve.collier2
Also a couple of small pieces of veneer have chipped off, is it better to stopper these, or let in a small piece of new veneer, and what is a good glue ?
I've developed my own practice here and others may not agree. Superglue binds veneer edges very well (make sure it goes in as far as the 'lift' extends then press down firmly with a plastic object to squeeze the surplus out).

Either small pieces of veneer (get the shade and grain alignment right) or plastic wood (dodge in the grain with woodstain and a brush) can work well as patches, and there's no harm in supergluing around here too, to strengthen and seal the junction. Indeed, this can be essential - otherwise problems can appear in the finish over the transition weeks later. Mind the vapours don't get into your eyes! Sanding back is of course then essential before any finish goes on.

For concealing and merging in the repaired section there are various dodges - the simplest is to use walnut toner, use of which is often necessary to recreate the correct cabinet colour anyway.

I personally don't recommend brown felt tip pens for anything other than tiny dust-speck--sized 'spotting' repairs (where they are indeed useful). Otherwise their markings look completely 'wrong', not merging with the finish underneath and changing how they look in different lights.

Steve
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Old 30th Jun 2006, 1:33 pm   #4
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Default Re: dark paint for plywood ends and speaker apertures ?

I go along with both the Humbrol and Halfords acrylic paint methods. One thing that was not said is they are both OK under cellulose lacquer. Certainly the acrylic is for several types and the Humbrol is fine under Mohawk (all I use now).

But do test on an old piece of wood first!
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Old 5th Jul 2006, 12:29 pm   #5
sparkie
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Default Re: dark paint for plywood ends and speaker apertures ?

I've usually used dark brown (with a bit of black in to darken) poster paint then cellulose or french polish over, depending on the age and original finish of the cabinet. You can get it ready mixed in tiny glass pots from art/model shops. It has the advantage over enamel etc that you can just wipe any surplus off easily with a damp rag. I've got sets I did 20 years ago and there's never been a problem with using it under a finish.

Replacing veneer - I always let in small pieces of (if possible) old veneer of the same wood. Any old scrap sets - leave them out in the rain for a while to delaminate, strip off as much veneer as you can, then put it between two boards with a car battery or two on top to flatten it. Old radiogram lids are especially good for this!!

Superglue - fine, I use it for tiny bits of veneer too. My preferred woodworking glue is Evo - the white stuff in a green plastic bottle, again because it's water soluble and easy to work with.....Steve
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Old 7th Jul 2006, 9:10 pm   #6
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Default Re: dark paint for plywood ends and speaker apertures ?

Radio Dave that is bad practice mixing paint in the tin and not what artists do! My wife is a good amateur and has a china pallet that I use. Its just a circular dish, with lots of petal shaped sections that slope from the edge to the centre. Can hold quite a lot of paint in each one. I understand they are not expensive from art shops.

What you do is transfer the base colour into one, then a little of your tinting colours into others and maybe some thinner in another. Coffee stirrers picked up in fast food places are useful for this. Then you just mix tint into the base until you have the right shade. Result is that you dont end up with lots of tins of paint of indeterminate colour.
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