Pye V110

[bionicmerlin]

Just looking for advice on this set. My Nan had one of these so I. Quite keen to get this working.
I have had the overwind on the Lopt drying up for about a week by passing current through it.
On powering up I got a raster on the top half of the screen. After a few mins I had a couple capacitors bubbling away. I thought it best to change them first.
The one I’m confused on is C93 on the lopt. In the Pye service manual it says it’s .05 MF at 750 volt . The old one is a bit grubby but it looks like it’s .1 MF . It’s not easy to replace as I had to take the Lopt out so I want to get it right . It also shows .05 in the red book . Do I go by the manual.?

Thanks Andy

[bionicmerlin]

Just a slight update I have found there is a V310F that is the fringe area version and C93 is Infact .1 MF capacitor so maybe it dosnt make much difference. Andy

[Sideband]

Originally Posted by bionicmerlin

Just a slight update I have found there is a V310F that is the fringe area version and C93 is Infact .1 MF capacitor so maybe it dosnt make much difference. Andy

C93 is the boost reservoir cap. 0.1uF would be OK and it probably isn't that critical....actually I think .05 would be on the low side for a boost cap. Make sure you use a good quality 1000V component.....there are a lot of high-voltage spikes present hence the voltage rating.

[Lloyd 1985]

I’ve got one of these sets too, it threw an interesting fault at me not long ago, which made me think the LOPT was knackered! It would fire up seemingly normally, but would have a fold over in the centre of the raster, Which would get worse and suddenly the line would collapse totally. I then found that the collapse could be made to happen by connecting a signal, and that it would come back to life when the signal was removed! I tried changing all the caps in the line stage one by one, quite a few had already been changed, and replacing them made no difference at all. Eventually I found what was causing it, it was a small block containing 2 diodes, I can’t remember the component number, but it’s a funny little beige/brown trapezoidal block with 4 legs on the line output panel. Just thought I’d mention it in case you also come across the same fault!

Regards
Lloyd

[FERNSEH]

Historic set. The first TV set in the UK to employ the 110degree CRT. December 1958. The first "slimline" TV set.

DFWB.

[bionicmerlin]

Thanks for the information everyone. I got a new .1 MF 1000v cap soldered in ready to try . I’m sure I will have some more problems later on I will want advice on. Andy

[bionicmerlin]

Just a update. Tv working not to bad. Hade quite a few issues but by replacing the usual parts got there in the end. Some of the caps under the lower chassis was not easy to get to.. its working on the original rectifier.
Giving a steady voltage.
The dropper bodge probably has to stay as I don’t have a better solution. The bottom power panel was missing so I made one out of a old radio back. The only Very minor thing is every now and then I Get a slight picture jitter. I can’t find anything loose so maybe it will cure its self.
The picture is Infact better than in the picture with plenty of brightness and contrast. Andy

[ms660]

Serviced lots those back in the day, incremental tuner, popular with outside service techs. for loan sets for obvious reasons.

Lawrence.

[bionicmerlin]

I was surprised how much I had to turn the gain down on my input source when setting it up. Thinking it must be a good set in a fringe area.
Having said that when my Nan had one of this sets. She was in a bad area and even had a battery amplifier hanging on the back. One of those that took a PP4 battery Andy

[mark pirate]

These were good sets, I got one from a jumble sale back in the mid 70's, all it needed was a replacement frame output valve, the picture was excellent with an indoor aerial.


Mark