Heirloom item help please

[Nickthedentist]

Yes, try 6.5V, 0.3A or thereabouts. They should last literally a few years.

[FrankSinatra]

Thanks both I know it's not a necessity to have one but I do like the look

[FrankSinatra]

6.5v did the trick thanks all

[Glowing Bits!]

Have the grid capacitors been dealt with yet? Still no mention of that given how important it is.
No comment on the gray paint, my thoughts will stay behind closed doors.

[FrankSinatra]

Have not done anything with capacitors, have read lots of conflicting opinions on that in what best to do.

[Analogue man]

To change them removes any risk of them damaging other components such damage if it occurs could be very expensive to repair.

[FrankSinatra]

Hello Graham that is some advice I have seen others say don't change if not needed,

[Radio Wrangler]

Originally Posted by FrankSinatra

Have not done anything with capacitors, have read lots of conflicting opinions on that in what best to do.

There are indeed conflicting opinions, but on the advisability of replacing certain capacitors, you will find there is a lot of agreement.

If you don't replace the critical capacitors, then you are risking damage that is expensive and often involves parts which are no longer available.

If you don't replace the non-critical parts, then failure isn't too expensive and only involves easily sourced parts. Inconvenient, but not devastating.

Good quality capacitors are cheap, so if you replace any unnecessarily, then the wastage of money is small.

So you need to find out which are the critical capacitors in order to evade an expensive failure.

In a radio section of a radiogram, or just a plain radio there are a number of capacitors which don't usually give much trouble, but if changed, the set will need realignment to get it back to proper performance. File these as parts which experienced engineer leave alone. It's cheap in parts but expensive in time to replace them and there isn't likely to be any reliability issue with them. Some of these are mica dielectric parts with an overall wax coating. These are usually flat in shape. They are fine, unlike the cylindrical paper 'waxies'

There are certain brands and series of capacitors which are worth replacing on sight if you want the set to be reliable.

Hunts Mouldseals
Paper in wax (Waxies)
Plessey Red and Black electrolytics

are the main ones to be going on with.

Electrolytic capacitors in general are worth a quick test with an ESR meter to see if they are still OK.

There is no one-size-fits-all answer to this issue, but you should now be aware of the factors pulling you in different directions.

David

[FrankSinatra]

Thanks David suppose I'm basking and enjoying it at the moment before I delve back under the hood as it were, I will need to do some research and seek advice on the how to if I attempt it shortly.

[Glowing Bits!]

I agree with David regarding them plastic things, they are usually replaced without even thinking about it, they were common in 1960's equipment and are found to be totally unreliable.

[stevehertz]

Originally Posted by FrankSinatra

Have not done anything with capacitors, have read lots of conflicting opinions on that in what best to do.

You can find conflicting opinions on most things, but that just serves to prove how sometimes people just believe what they want to believe in the face of evidence that tells them otherwise. On here, the salient point being you have the benefit of hundreds of enthusiasts' experience and knowledge collectively amounting to thousands of years.

[FrankSinatra]

Thanks for the advice gents it's much appreciated

[Sideband]

Just a photo of the underside of the chassis where all the components are should tell if the capacitors are a reliable type or not. IF it's full of Mullard mustards you can put the chassis back without doing anything. If it's got Hunts Moldseals or other such horrors then some preventative maintenance is recommended!

To be fair on Hunts, the moldseals were fine in their day but were not envisaged to last some 50 odd years and are way out of their design life. Non-use doesn't play much of a part in their life....they absorb moisture from the air over a period of time and will deteriorate.

[Heatercathodeshort]

If you intend to use this gram rather than have it as a talking piece you need to take the advice given. The coupling capacitors will probably need to be checked for make/changed to prevent expensive and needless damage.
You state nothing on your profile. Have you repaired old equipment before? John.

[FrankSinatra]

Thanks both I will look to get a photo up here for comments, no never done anything like this before John.

[Edward Huggins]

If "you've never done anything like this before", you may find it a struggle to read circuit diagrams and/or identify the components to be changed - let alone safely work where there are dangerous voltages. If it's currently working to your complete satisfaction, then I would leave as it is - OR - get one of our Members in your area (there are some local to you) to take a look.

[FrankSinatra]

Seem to have lost output in the R speaker over the weekend, balance to the left does what it should, slight crackle from right speaker but don't think there is any output.

What would be the best way to test this please?

[FrankSinatra]

Noticed today the left speaker has no machine screw in place but the right does, occasionally static noise in the left but quite clear with the back cover off that only the right speaker has output.

[FrankSinatra]

Schoolboy error but just tried the radio and I get output on bothe speakers, but don't on the gram, tried stereo and mono records. Guess it's something simple that I am not understanding, any help appreciated.

[Edward Huggins]

It's highly liable to be the one (or more) of the 4 cartridge connecting pins. If you take them off (use tweezers and do make a diagram so you know what goes where) and reconnect them, all should be fine. If not you may need a new cartridge.