HMV veneer - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

fordboy · 25th Apr 2015, 8:53 pm

Hi all,

I have another problem with the HMV 499 that I am currently restoring.

The curved part of the cabinet above the speaker had a large chunk of veneer missing, and the rest of the veneer was split, and only hanging on by a load of PVA glue smothered on by a previous owner. So I took the decision to strip of the old veneer.

I was wondering whether anyone has any tips for a total beginner veneering on a curved part of a cabinet?
I did try some Iron on veneer but I would not stick well towards the top of the cabinet, so I took it off again.

I was thinking of trying some plain walnut veneer, and some hide glue to do the job, but can someone advise how to get the veneer flexible enough to go round such a tight curve on the cabinet?

Cheers,

Liam

SurreyNick · 30th Apr 2015, 2:25 pm

There are several ways to attack this job Liam. Good news is it's not too difficult and there are plenty of good instructional vids on YouTube. Search for 'veneering curved surface' or something like that.

Very importantly don't use a veneer with burrs or knots. These will just split. Use a smooth, close grained veneer. Also choose a thin veneer. The thinner it is the easier it will curve. Your choice of glue is also important. Most restorers use pearl (hide) glue, but you need a glue pot and heater for this.

An old trick is to use Evo-Stick, applying a thin coat to each surface and letting it dry completely. Once dry lay the veneer over the curve and using an iron on a medium heat press down hard and gently work your way around the curve, allowing the veneer under the influence of the heat take the shape. A dry iron is usual, but you can also have a gentle steam which will aid the veneer to curve, but be careful not to apply too much steam or you will spoil the adhesion. Finally stretch several strips of masking tape over the whole job to hold the veneer down, making sure you pay particular attention to the edges.

If the curve is acute you may need to get some curve into the veneer before you start. Use steam to make it pliable and use the curve of the cabinet to form the shape. To hold the curve you can use elastic bands which are just taught enough to hold the curve of the veneer without splitting it as it dries, or tape one edge tight to the cabinet and tape the opposing edge as far as the curve will go comfortably. Take your time developing the curve. You might have to repeat the exercise two or three times.

If you have a steamer large enough you could also put the piece of veneer in it and steam for about two hours, at which point it should be pliable enough to bend right round in one go.

As I say, lots of good guidance on YouTube.

Good luck

Nick

25th Apr 2015, 8:53 pm	#1
fordboy Triode Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Slough, Berkshire, UK. Posts: 10	HMV veneer Hi all, I have another problem with the HMV 499 that I am currently restoring. The curved part of the cabinet above the speaker had a large chunk of veneer missing, and the rest of the veneer was split, and only hanging on by a load of PVA glue smothered on by a previous owner. So I took the decision to strip of the old veneer. I was wondering whether anyone has any tips for a total beginner veneering on a curved part of a cabinet? I did try some Iron on veneer but I would not stick well towards the top of the cabinet, so I took it off again. I was thinking of trying some plain walnut veneer, and some hide glue to do the job, but can someone advise how to get the veneer flexible enough to go round such a tight curve on the cabinet? Cheers, Liam Attached Thumbnails Last edited by AC/HL; 26th Apr 2015 at 4:04 pm. Reason: Image rotated

30th Apr 2015, 2:25 pm	#2
SurreyNick Heptode Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Wigton, Cumbria, UK. Posts: 728	Re: HMV veneer There are several ways to attack this job Liam. Good news is it's not too difficult and there are plenty of good instructional vids on YouTube. Search for 'veneering curved surface' or something like that. Very importantly don't use a veneer with burrs or knots. These will just split. Use a smooth, close grained veneer. Also choose a thin veneer. The thinner it is the easier it will curve. Your choice of glue is also important. Most restorers use pearl (hide) glue, but you need a glue pot and heater for this. An old trick is to use Evo-Stick, applying a thin coat to each surface and letting it dry completely. Once dry lay the veneer over the curve and using an iron on a medium heat press down hard and gently work your way around the curve, allowing the veneer under the influence of the heat take the shape. A dry iron is usual, but you can also have a gentle steam which will aid the veneer to curve, but be careful not to apply too much steam or you will spoil the adhesion. Finally stretch several strips of masking tape over the whole job to hold the veneer down, making sure you pay particular attention to the edges. If the curve is acute you may need to get some curve into the veneer before you start. Use steam to make it pliable and use the curve of the cabinet to form the shape. To hold the curve you can use elastic bands which are just taught enough to hold the curve of the veneer without splitting it as it dries, or tape one edge tight to the cabinet and tape the opposing edge as far as the curve will go comfortably. Take your time developing the curve. You might have to repeat the exercise two or three times. If you have a steamer large enough you could also put the piece of veneer in it and steam for about two hours, at which point it should be pliable enough to bend right round in one go. As I say, lots of good guidance on YouTube. Good luck Nick