Cutting aluminium chassis with a Dremel

[ms660]

I agree, also you can usually clamp a straight edge to the job if it's a straight cut to act as a guide for the jigsaw's sole plate.

Lawrence.

[dseymo1]

I must be doing something wrong.
Despite the soleplate following a straightedge, I find that the blade still wanders.
What's the trick?

[Steve_Bell]

I tried a diamond cutting wheel on a scrap piece of aluminium but was unimpressed with the results.

I just used a fine toothed blade in a coping saw in the end.

[mole42uk]

Originally Posted by dseymo1

What's the trick?

Possibly pushing the blade into the work. You really just have to gently push the saw enough to allow it to keep up with the cut, not the other way around.

Alternatively you could have a slightly off sharp blade, or not coarse enough (too many tpi) or the blade isn't fixed properly in the saw.

[ms660]

Also some metal cutting jigsaws have a shorter stroke:

http://www.bosch-professional.com/gb...l-26175-ocs-p/

Lawrence.

[David G4EBT]

We have to work with the tools that we've got, but I think that in general, pendulum action jigsaws - whatever the material that they're cutting, work better than basic ones. The pendulum action helps sawdust/metal swarf clear from the blade, and aluminium is the very devil for clogging the teeth saws and files. This (promo) video explains the importance and benefits of pendulum action:

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/the-import...-have-it-a1119

This video by the 'Ultimate Handyman' website shows how to cut sheet metal (steel in this case) with a jigsaw and gives some useful tips, but though steel is much harder than aluminium, it does cut better as unlike aluminium, steel doesn't 'pick up' on the teeth:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWpHzf1I0BI

Personally, for cutting holes of any size I always drill a series of holes adjacent to each other all the way round the perimeter, close to the cutting line, then I remove the scrap and use files to clean up the edges. For cutting sheet, I used a hand hacksaw.

Good luck in your endeavours.

[Variometer]

I used to cut aluminium sheet by simply scoring each side with a scalpel and then bending it slightly from side to side until metal fatigue broke it.
Nowadays, I invariably cut it with a small hobby bandsaw. At first, I feared it might blunt the blade, but it seems to have little effect, and I even think it improves the blade. After I gained confidence, I began cutting sheet brass with the bandsaw as well. I always wear goggles when cutting, but have never had any problems with it jamming or throwing slivers of metal out!
Bob

[elanman99]

Originally Posted by dseymo1

What's the trick?

To get a straight line when following a fence the first thing you need is a good quality jigsaw, next, a good quality blade with teeth that cut equally on both sides. Thirdly go slowly and don't force the blade. I have used an early Bosch pendulum Jigsaw for over 30 years and cut every thickness of all materials know to man! (lopped branches about 5" diameter! 6mm thick SS, 10mm thick aluminium etc)

One tip if you want to preserve a painted or anodised finish is to do all the marking out on a piece of hardboard or thick cardboard, thin (3mm) MDF is perfect. There are two (three really) massive advantages to sandwiching a sacrificial template, firstly the sawdust is a brilliantly effective 'lubricant' and stops the teeth clogging especially on aluminium but it works well on steel and even plastic. Secondly swarf does not get under the jigsaw soleplate and then hammered by vibration into the work surface, that applies even if you are cutting from the side that only you might see. Lastly wood or whatever is easier to do the marking out on.

Ian


a Two things I do when cutting metal with a jigsaw