Philips N4306 recorder

[hillmanie]

Thanks for keeping me informed. Belts are on the way but I've today bought from local engineering supplier a couple of metres of rubberite o-ring 'cord', just in case. Mark up is 500% over internet prices but convenience is worth it.
TT

[hillmanie]

Originally Posted by dazzlevision

I suggest you post a few photos of the top of the deck, with cover off and of the underneath, when removed from cabinet, to show the PCB.

The saga of the N4306 belts continues sporadically as I lose heart and abandon it where it lies, the chassis now naked as an ash tree in March leering at me, daring me to resume. In the meantime I have several tempting projects waiting, nice ones based on the Collaro Studio deck and others in the Ferguson/Marconiphone/ Ultra piano key family. I dare not open up one for fear that I never get back to the Philips, - bin beckoning - all except one Ferg which promises a simple enough journey, the recorder being dead. For it at the moment I've only got as far as replacing the fuse, plugtop and a foot of the power cord. When I find where the ends are connected to the transformer and motor I'll be able to test the continuity of the cable and onward
However, armed with the help and N4306 overdeck long belt diagram kindly supplied me here, I have at long last cleaned off all the old liquified belt, this only after many angrifying 'finds' lurking in hidden nooks and places.
Now to next belt issue. I see that the flywheel belt is lying loose down under and although not broken or melted it must have had some reason for so doing and fortunately there is a new one in the set from Italy. Difficulty is that I haven't the dexterity of a monkey so I conclude that the component PCB has to be removed. I have uploaded a couple of pics of this to My Album to help with my request here. Not great but maybe better with enlargement. JPGs I think. Have removed the three small fixing screws and haven't found one hiding among the soldered points, as previous unhappy experience has taught me. Screws out and the board is still rock tight to the chassis. A PCB is not a thing to be prised a lot with a screwdriver so I limited my lifting test to a gentle finger. Now for the help - the only thing I can see that may be holding it is solder. There are two solder mounds very smooth that look like no attached components and I wonder if they don't conceal something holding the board to the chassis? One is at top Left and one around the six o'clock area. If so I'll dis-engage what I find under the solder holding it and re-solder after I replace the underdeck belt (s ?) and the PCB
Will be grateful as always
TT...

[Ted Kendall]

There is almost certainly a slide switch on the board connected to the deck keys - look carefully and be gentle with it, as it is easily damaged. You may have to disengage the deck linkage to get the board out, although I'm not sure this is actually necessary to change the belt.

[hillmanie]

Originally Posted by Ted Kendall

There is almost certainly a slide switch on the board connected to the deck keys - look carefully and be gentle with it, as it is easily damaged. You may have to disengage the deck linkage to get the board out, although I'm not sure this is actually necessary to change the belt.

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Fast, fast ! reply - thanks. Holding off on my reply while I pull together several pieces of info from these and other pages when I'l be in a better position to explain myself
TT

[ben]

What belt are you replacing exactly?

You shouldn't need to remove that board. The thing it blocks is the the circlip holding on the supply spool table. If you have some long nose pliers you can remove it, with some trial and error, and then be able to replace the rubber clutch sections within the spooltable. Search the forum as this has been covered.

You will probably need to replace the take up belt, and clean the area of goo. Again, requiring unclipping the spool table from below to gain access.

[hillmanie]

Originally Posted by ben

What belt are you replacing exactly?

You shouldn't need to remove that board ...

Many thanks. Will reply with better facts shortly
Rgds

Tony T

[hillmanie]

Hi
Am probably replacing all belts. There are 3 in the new set, two of the smaller size one of which obviously the tape counter. I've already tried out the longest belt in the set in accord with the very good pictures of the run layout that you and a couple other folk have supplied. This belt is off again as it picked up a smidgin of goo from a hidden nook and all has been cleaned again. I fully understand that the pulleys can be removed without disturbing the PCB but by a better man than I, has too many miles on the clock of un-dexterous arthritic hands. That's why I need to be able to come in over any workpiece rather than from the side. Otherwise I can't even see the run of the dislodged capstan belt in there much less to reattach it. The pulley shafts have as you say circlips or a variation of those. I have a proper circlip pliers from my engine DIY days but don't think that's as good as a very slim long nosed pliers you recommend. Because of all the info here I have double checked that it is indeed an N4306 because the pulleys I think saw should be white, are black. Insignificant of course. Anyway I will as you say, keep at it in the hope that some inspiration will attend my efforts
Regards
Tony T