Soldered joints

[Gordon]

Hi Everyone,

I have a confession to make.
I was replacing some perished stranded wire, in a particularly difficult place, things were getting hot because the wire was looped through a tagstrip and would not free itself. So I cut the wire off at the tagstrip and 'lay' the new wire onto the tagstrip and soldered it.

Is there anyone else going to own up to the occassional 'lay joint' ?

Gordon.

P.S. Will I be banned from the BVWS?

[Nickthedentist]

Hi Gordon, you're not alone!

If you can remove all of the wire relatrively straightfowardly, then do. It makes for a neater looking end result.

But if the original wire is so tangled up with the tag that, even with the help of desoldering braid and a sucker, you would end up damaging something by trying to remove it, then doing what you've done is the sensible option The results can look very neat indeed if you do it skillfully.

Well that's the way I see it anyway.

Nick.

[Paul Stenning]

I often cut the original wire from the tag and solder the replacement on top when replacing components etc. Not only is it quicker but it also minimises the risk of damage to other components, tag, etc from the heat and stress of desoldering. With care the result looks tidy enough - and probably tidier than the result of unwrapping and rewrapping several wires.

If this needs to be a confession then I am guilty as charged. But since the aim is to replace the defective parts and wires with the minimum damage and disturbance to the rest of the set, I think I have a valid defence!

[Photo_Tube]

I do it as well, it doesnt look too bad if you're careful , I got the tip to do this from Paul's website.

[JoshWard]

Do it all the time! This reminds me I have got to re-wire a DAC10 tomorrow! Josh.

[YC-156]

What I usually do is removing as much solder as possible using a solder sucker. Then a fine, high quality wire nipper usually allows me to cut, pry and pull the offending wire pieces off the solder tag bit by bit. Of course there can be tight spots, where there is simply no room to manouver. As long as you remember that solder isn't glue, you should be OK.

Frank N.

[Station X]

I was taught to treat solder as an insulator. That's fine when constructing something new, but more difficult when confronted with a tag having half a dozen wires soldered to it. I generally do a proper unsoldering/wire removal job where possible. However sometimes I snip a component's lead close to the component and solder a new component across the wire ends. It can be made to look neat, if not original. I suppose it depends on whether you're repairing a set or restoring it. Everyone has their own individual standards, which may vary from set to set. For post WW2 sets I don't worry too much about what it looks like below the chassis, but for pre-war sets I try to preserve the original appearance, even inserting new components inside old ones.

Graham.

Graham.

[evingar]

Hi Folks

I don't like doing "lay joints" on vintage equipment, and if possible will avoid them - I was also taught that a joint should be physically sound and non intermittent even before the solder is applied (modern surface mount technology of course makes a complete mockery of this notion!).

However, as has been mentioned above, if the joint is inaccessible, necessitating de-assembling other wires and components to gain good access. Or alternatively, movement of wires and components is likely to have a undesirable effect on performance, (in high frequency areas) then I have been know to "take the path of least resistance" and “commit” a lay joint.

[jay_oldstuff]

I usualy preferm to remove all the solder with my sloder sucker and basicaly do what YC-156 does another method i use is to cut the dud componient out leaving 1/2" if wire conected to the tag then conect the new componient wire to that wather using a little coil of wire or i form a little huck in each wire huck them toghether squeez the huck together and then solder.
of course there is always the times where acsess is dificult not a problem but you must ensure the wire you are conectiong is clean and tined first so to insure a good joint.
this is just my personal preference though

Jay

[ged_drinkwater]

I must confess to doing things the hard way, i.e., removing the old solder, then unwrapping the component lead(s), with the aid of a small screw driver and pointed-nose pliers! This can take a lot of time and patience, but is not as tricky or risky as it may seem. The secret is to remove the solder in stages, using a good, fast-acting, solder braid (such as Servisol Soldamop), pausing for a few seconds each time to allow the tag, and associated components, to cool. The iron should be rated at 25W and have a reasonable size of bit (my old Antex fits the bill here).

When the solder has been removed, and the lead(s) unwrapped, I gently scrape away any hardened flux deposits or tarnished areas. I've found that subsequent cleaning of the tag with a cotton bud, dipped in isopropyl alcohol, further helps the resoldering process.

So, out of habit, this is my way of doing things. I certainly don't mean to criticize the other (somewhat speedier) techniques which have been described, and which, if applied with care, doubtless achieve the same end, i.e., neat looking and electrically sound joints.

Ged

[JHGibson]

There is no reason to wrap a joint before soldering it, a lay joint has adequate strength. Tektronix builds their equipment using 100% lay joints and their equipment is not known for soldered joint problems.
John.

[stephanie]

For me, it all depends on how many components are tied to a particular terminal, the fragility of the terminal....and also the accessibility.

If it's a common tie point for multiple paper caps, then I try to clean the lug off as much as possible. If it's a tube socket, I try to fuss as little as I can. I'm not keen on having to replace a tube socket if I don't absolutely POSITIVELY need to.

What I try doing sometimes is wrapping the new component lead around the stump of the old lead. Try not blobbing the solder on and it should be OK.