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Vintage Radio (domestic) Domestic vintage radio (wireless) receivers only.

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Old 24th Aug 2008, 10:38 pm   #21
captain_70s
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Default Re: Pye 15a problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by PJL View Post

C2 and C20 are 0.01uF that isolate the pick-up from mains and should be replaced with Y2 types or preferably remove them altogether. As well as not being particularly safe, as soon as you connect it to an earthed device it is going to hum like mad.
If they can be removed why are they in there anyway...

And what does C28 do in the set...

As far as I can see the wires seem to be in suprisingly good condition although it is probably best to change them anyway.
Looks can be deceiving.
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Old 24th Aug 2008, 10:55 pm   #22
Steve_P
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Default Re: Pye 15a problem

C28 is a mains filter cap. It should be replaced with an X2 cap as these are built in such a way as to fail open circuit.

I'm afraid I just cut it out....

C2 is best left where it is as it affects the earthing of the set. If C20 is removed, the set won't accept a pick up. No real problem in removing this.

Cheers,

Steve P.
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Old 27th Aug 2008, 1:54 am   #23
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Default Re: Pye 15a problem

Firstly I will say thank you very much everyone for all of your help.

Where would be a good place to find these replacment parts, and how simillar will a x2 capacitor be cosmeticaly to the original.
The ones I found seems to be rectangular rather than cone shaped as the original is.
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Old 27th Aug 2008, 9:22 am   #24
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Default Re: Pye 15a problem

Well the BVWS do some parts, you can get parts at meets, or click here - http://www.vintage-radio.com/contacts/links.html .

I use Past Times Radio, but not related, etc.

Cheers,

Steve P.
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Old 27th Aug 2008, 10:21 am   #25
Nickthedentist
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Default Re: Pye 15a problem

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Originally Posted by captain_70s View Post
...how simillar will a x2 capacitor be cosmeticaly to the original?
As you've noticed, they all seem to be rectangular now, with radial (as opposed to axial) leadouts.

What I tend to do is disconnect both ends of the old component, and either remove it or leave it in place "for originality" if it's held to the chassis with a metal clip as they sometimes are. Then, I simply solder the new component to the switched L and N terminals of the on/off switch.

See here (the filter cap is the blue component): https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...7&d=1200063483

Nick.

Last edited by Nickthedentist; 27th Aug 2008 at 10:26 am.
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