Sony BVM 2016p.

[shoestrring]

Hi all,

First post on the forum. Just I'm looking for some assistance with this 20" monitor which I acquired recently.

This is basically the PAL version of the 1916, similar to the 1911 / 2011p except it has a slightly inferior tube ( 600+ tvl vs 900+ ).

First of all, Composite input B doesn't appear to work, I don't get a picture at all, just a black screen with the 75 ohm terminator connected. Without the terminator I get a some visuals but it appears that the sync signal is completely off. All other inputs work fine ( composite input A and RGB ). No point uploading a picture with input B in use plus terminator because there's absolutely no visible sync at all.

So far I've established that the QA board ( input circuit ) is working, by connecting input B's corresponding hook up cable from the QA board to the BA-1 connector on the BA board and getting a valid picture.

I have a feeling the problem is somewhere on the BA board since all the other channels work fine. Card is in good condition with no obvious signs of physical damage, good thing there aren't any SMD caps.

Does anyone have any experience working on these monitors that may have some idea of where to look before I rip out my scope ?

[Retrotechie]

Hi, so the good news is that you have the original BA board, rather than the one that comes with the SDI kit and has the dreaded smd caps on. The bad news is that the CPU board (HZ) buried in the pull out drawer, does have smd caps, and they are likely to be leaking, especially if the monitor has sat unused for a while.

Regarding the B input make sure it’s nothing silly, like a switch pressed on the pull out drawer (Input B can be configured differently I seem to remember, especially if the SDI kit was installed). The other thing is to leave it on for say 12 hours, and see if the input comes back. If it does, then it would suggest a capacitor. Dry joints weren’t that common on these, but worth have a tap around the boards on the right side.

[shoestrring]

I'll definitely have to make the HZ board a priority then and examine the board, thanks for the tip.

As for Input B, I have programmed the panel inputs and its set up the same as Input A, with the internal sync on + coded, I believe the only other possibilities that could throw me off are D,YUV and RGB. Here's another side shot with the populated cards.

Monitor has roughly 83600 hours on it but there was a tube change mid year in 2001 so hopefully it lasts a few more years.

[shoestrring]

Just had a look underneath the front panel and SMDs haven't leaked just yet, so that's good news. Will need to get to those before they actually do.

There should be plenty of clearance under the HY board for standard radial electrolytics instead of SMDs too.

[shoestrring]

Found a shorted ELNA 47uf 16v cap before one of the inputs to IC1 which handles the switching between the two composite inputs. This was practically the first cap I tested, what are the chances of having such luck on the first pull?

All other caps on input B tested OK and were within tolerance but I replaced them anyway.

I soldered in a Panasonic 50v .47mf cap @ c2 and now I have all inputs working.

This ESR meter has turned out to be quite handy.

[Retrotechie]

Great work ! These caps don’t normally go short (normally high ESR).

Definitely change the ones on the cpu board if you can, as they are known to leak and can result in quite a bit of damage.

[shoestrring]

Especially in a low voltage part of the circuit. No sign of fluid leakage either, probably a dud from the factory.

As for the CPU board I have some 100uF Rubycon and 47uF Nichicon radials on order. There's no need to use SMDs when package size of capacitors in general has decreased significantly over the years.

[Retrotechie]

Originally Posted by shoestrring

Especially in a low voltage part of the circuit. No sign of fluid leakage either, probably a dud from the factory.

As for the CPU board I have some 100uF Rubycon and 47uF Nichicon radials on order. There's no need to use SMDs when package size of capacitors in general has decreased significantly over the years.

I agree, I always try and fit radials where possible, I just find it easier and they tend to be more reliable than the surface mount ones.

[shoestrring]

Got around to recapping the HZ board, 28 caps in all. In that size, I couldn't find anything over 1000 hours but at the 105 temp rating and in that part of the circuit where nothing gets hot, these should last a long time.

It wasn't easy and I made a small mistake which had taken me the most amount of time to track down and fix.

One of the caps I replaced was fairly close to a tiny 0hm jumper at JR5 which I dislodged with the iron in the process and lost the manual control input for the brightness, contrast , phase and chroma with the CRT going into overload.

So if you're going to do this, be very careful and take it slow.


Edit:

Also forgot to mention, 1 cap had started to leak. Luckily not on the PCB but it was visible on the plastic base.

[Retrotechie]

Great work! The caps can be tricky to remove, especially where the leaking electrolyte has reacted with the solder. I have a couple of scrap boards, where the damage is too much (see attached).
These caps were also used on the BKM-2085 SDI kits, which were an option and part of the kit involved replacing the BA video input board, with a BA3 input board, which has the dreaded surface mount caps.

[shoestrring]

That looks long gone but still good enough for donor parts you can salvage for other projects.

I had a look at the power block and EA board, all the main caps still check out ok with low ESR. So I think I'll leave everything as is for now. What surprised me about the 2016p is how easy it is to work on, the power block slides right out underneath for easy access and the EA board folds down like in the later 9" PVM/BVM models.

[agardiner]

Originally Posted by shoestrring

..... In that size, I couldn't find anything over 1000 hours....

On that basis given the hours on this set, the unit has been recapped 83 times!

Great job.