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Hints, Tips and Solutions (Do NOT post requests for help here) If you have any useful general hints and tips for vintage technology repair and restoration, please share them here. PLEASE DO NOT POST REQUESTS FOR HELP HERE!

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Old 13th Jun 2013, 8:59 am   #1
wireful3
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Default Replacing screws.

When replacing a screw (or nut) in inaccessible places I have found suitable sized heat shrink sleeving useful. With a screw it can secure the screw firmly to the end of the driver so that a jungle of wires and components can be negotiated easier than with fingers. It can even been used alone to give some flexibility.

With a nut it makes a flexible box spanner to get the nut started. This is helpful when the screw is easily accessible at the top of the chassis but the nut though visible is under a bird's nest of components.

I usually find the sleeving can be pulled off when secure but on occasions it might need the sleeve wall cutting to release it.
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Old 14th Jun 2013, 12:45 pm   #2
Herald1360
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

Hellermann sleeves are good for this sort of thing, too, with the advantage of reusability.
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Old 14th Jun 2013, 1:15 pm   #3
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

...and judging by their nickname (which I learned on these boards), the pliers used to apply them also have multitudinous uses...
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Old 15th Jun 2013, 12:27 am   #4
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

Careful now. That post was moderated

Anyway, you don't need them to poke a suitable sized sleeve over the end of a screwdriver and screwhead.

The sleeves are also useful for removing the little T13/4 bulbs from illuminated switches.
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Old 20th Jun 2013, 11:30 am   #5
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

I tip given to me by Skywave is to put a blob of old capacitor wax on the end of the screwdriver. I've found this very effective.

- Joe
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Old 20th Jun 2013, 1:44 pm   #6
emeritus
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

I have used Plasticene for this purpose. A dab of Plasticene on the end of a piece of wire can also be used for retrieving screws, washers etc. that have fallen into the innards, but nowadays I use a small piece of Duct tape, adhesive side out, secured to the end of a piece of wire or whatever for retrieving fallen fasteners.
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Old 23rd Jun 2013, 10:36 am   #7
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePillenwerfer View Post
I tip given to me by Skywave is to put a blob of old capacitor wax on the end of the screwdriver. I've found this very effective.

- Joe
It also works on the end of a finger for refitting awkward 4BA nuts!
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Old 8th Jul 2013, 4:14 am   #8
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

A blob of "BluTack" on the end of a chopstick works well. Also I use another blob of BluTack to keep those pesky straws attached to my spray can of switch cleaner, IPA or whatever.
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Old 8th Jul 2013, 8:02 am   #9
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

My contribution for starting a nut in an awkward place is to use an old screwdriver ground down pushed in the end of the nut one thread in so it is a tight fit ,this enables the nut to be placed in the most inaccessible of places
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Old 9th Jul 2013, 5:12 am   #10
G4XWDJim
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

No one seems to have mentioned split wedge screwdrivers which are perfect for fitting slot headed screws in awkward places. I've had one for many years and find it invaluable.

Google split wedge screwdrivers to find pictures and descriptions.

I'll post a picture of mine if anyone requires it.

Jim
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Old 9th Jul 2013, 7:41 am   #11
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

I sometimes put a small film of evostik on the reverse face of a nut and use it to hold the thing on the tip of a finger. It works well and the rubbery stuff rubs off easily. Not as much reach as a screwdriver, but the tactile feedback makes locating the right place and feeling for the start of a thread possible.

David
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Old 9th Jul 2013, 9:00 am   #12
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

Slide the nut over a Steadfast (terminal) screwdriver or whatever, then hold it in position below the driver handle. Place the blade of the screwdriver over the bolt or stud to take the nut, then let the nut slide down the driver onto the thread.

Keep the driver in place so the nut doesn't come off, then spin it on gently with another pointy thing.

Of course, this is a gravity method. If you are reaching up and you've no gooey stuff to hand but have a socket, coil some solder or moist paper up and fill the socket with it so the nut sits flush with the socket end before offering it to the thread.
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Old 9th Jul 2013, 9:19 pm   #13
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

Quote:
Originally Posted by G4XWDJim View Post
No one seems to have mentioned split wedge screwdrivers which are perfect for fitting slot headed screws in awkward places. I've had one for many years and find it invaluable...

I have those in two sizes and a different kind for crosshead screws. Couldn't do without them for replacing screws in the depths of a radio..ask Sean!
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Old 12th Jul 2013, 6:31 pm   #14
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

When fitting a screw that has a washer or 2 to go on as well I often wrap some solder around the screw and it holds the washers in place and you can wrap the solder around the shaft of the screwdriver as well. Because solder is so pliable it holds it all really securely. Once the screw is screwed in a few turns you simply unwind the solder. This works much more securely than glue or blu tack etc plus it holds the washers in place too.
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Old 12th Jul 2013, 7:03 pm   #15
60 oldjohn
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

I swipe my screwdriver over a magnet I have attached to the wall behind my bench to magnetise the screwdriver. I know magnetic screwdrivers are available. I use capacitor wax in the slot for the brass screws.
John.
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Old 12th Jul 2013, 9:33 pm   #16
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Default Re: Replacing screws.

We used the split bladed driver in our old engineer's toolkit
I think it was branded "screwstart" - SO useful
I wouldn't be without my original one, but I think it's sourced from the USA

I also have a thin version which is useful for 6/8ba jobs , end operated

There is a version for pozidrive screws and a similar looking one for starting nuts ( with a stepped end )
This I find invaluable, but it doesn't always hold tight to 6BA nuts, which, under the blade tension often 'ping' off into the dark recesses of the workshop
Then it's time to reach for the bluetack

I've also occasionally used forceps on nuts with some success

Andy
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