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Components and Circuits For discussions about component types, alternatives and availability, circuit configurations and modifications etc. Discussions here should be of a general nature and not about specific sets. |
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#1 |
Hexode
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Stourbridge, West Midlands, UK.
Posts: 434
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Hello ,having just restored a DAC90A for a relative who lives 'out in the sticks', iI returned the set to them,and whilst I was there,decided to check the mains input voltage as they are quite a way from the nearest town, it measured in at 231 volts! so I set the voltage tapping at 230V in the back of the set as I had set it to 250V because where I live, the mains measures at 253V!
What is the supply voltage where you are and are wide differences like those above commonplace in the UK? ![]() |
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#2 | |
Dekatron
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oxfordshire, UK.
Posts: 4,285
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Mrs GJ was (ahem) 'a few decades ago' a student sponsored by the then Central Electricity Generating Board. She spent a summer working for them and got to learn some of the ins-and-outs of the system's operation. She once told me that demand variations were dealt with by a combination of letting the voltage drift and letting the frequency drift. The relative importance of the two varied from country to country and in the UK we worked hard to keep the frequency steady which meant we let the voltage flap about quite a bit. The French, for example, tended to do the opposite. A lot may have changed since then. But this is a pretty fundamental issue and I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the practice now is the same as it's always been. That would explain the poor standard of voltage stability that I, for one, have to live with. Cheers, GJ |
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#3 |
Rest in Peace
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Matlock, Derbyshire, UK.
Posts: 1,378
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I made a note of the required voltage some time ago, whether it still applies I know not.
230V +10% -6% i.e. 216.2V to 253V I never did understand why dropping the frequency drops the power, certainly fluorescent lights will consume more. Trevor |
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#4 |
Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Oxford, UK
Posts: 27,160
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Rural housing can be at the end of a long low voltage circuit. They often don't have mains gas supplies, and when everybody turns their ovens and washing machines on in the evening the voltage can drop quite low. I once stayed in a remote cottage in Sussex and the lighting would dim dramatically when the oven thermostat switched.
It's usually best to set mains selectors to 240V in the UK unless you have a very good reason to do otherwise. |
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#5 |
Octode
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Dundee, UK.
Posts: 1,769
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What it should be: The Electricity Supply Quality and Continuity Regulations 2002, (http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2002/2665/made)
Paragraph 27: (2) Unless otherwise agreed in writing between the distributor, the supplier and the consumer (and if necessary between the distributor and any other distributor likely to be affected) the frequency declared pursuant to paragraph (1) shall be 50 hertz and the voltage declared in respect of a low voltage supply shall be 230 volts between the phase and neutral conductors at the supply terminals. (3) For the purposes of this regulation, unless otherwise agreed in writing by those persons specified in paragraph (2), the permitted variations are— (a)a variation not exceeding 1 per cent above or below the declared frequency; (b)in the case of a low voltage supply, a variation not exceeding 10 per cent above or 6 per cent below the declared voltage at the declared frequency; If your mains supply is outside these limits you would have a good case for a complaint to the supplier. PMM |
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#6 |
Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Oxford, UK
Posts: 27,160
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Well, yes, but that's not much help if your prized valve radio has been knackered because you set the voltage tapping to 230V and the supply goes to 255V in the afternoon when everybody turns their appliances off.
Life is much easier in urban areas where the voltage varies very little. |
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#7 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Surrey, UK.
Posts: 4,330
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Tedious as it sounds, it is worth keeping an eye on trends with a respectable AC meter and setting voltage selection, the variation might seem trivial but some consequences can be disproportionate. It's not at all unusual for output valve screen grid to be fed more or less directly from the main HT rail, i.e. from low source resistance. As HT goes up, so does screen volts- therefore likely anode current. More volts x more milliamps= rather more heat, and many output valves run a bit on the edge at the best of times. Also, high quality radios may have shunt regulators- say we have a 150V stabiliser designed to be fed with 250V HT, i.e. 100V across its feed resistor. HT unfortunately is actually 270V- that's 20% more current through the feed resistor, more heat and more for the stabiliser to cope with.
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#8 |
Pentode
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sandviken, Sweden
Posts: 229
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Does it hurt a radio, tv or similar electronics to be under-run regarding voltage? I am talking reasonable deviation, such as ten volts approx.
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#9 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wombwell, Nr. Barnsley, South Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 53
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There is a unit which is available now to regulate the voltage to your house supply. I have one fitted, and it's set to 230v. It's called a V-Phase unit, and here is a link to their site http://www.vphase.co.uk/
As well as a stabilised power supply; the idea is that it will save electricity by only using 230v instead of 240-250v I've had mine for about a year now, and there is no need for seperate stabilised power supplies for computer equipment, or anything else which might be sensitive to voltage spikes. I hope this has been of some help. Regards Ralph. |
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#10 | |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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#11 |
Heptode
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Willand, Devon, UK.
Posts: 995
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It's 220V out not 230V, though I see this can be changed by buying optional jumpers. I've never seen one installed, they are designed to connect to only some of the circuits. If you are really having problems with voltage variation, automatic variacs are available cheap second hand for connecting small appliances. Most are adjustable internally to set the output voltage you want. I have seen a mains supply to a house at about 262V, the resident of the house complained that light bulbs failed often and certain appliances also had short lives.
Last edited by matthewhouse; 7th Jul 2013 at 10:15 am. |
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#12 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wombwell, Nr. Barnsley, South Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 53
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Mine is set at 230v and supplies everything in the house.
Regards Ralph. |
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#13 |
Pentode
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Braintree Essex UK.
Posts: 205
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If you look at this you will see that it is in fact tweaked around 240 Volts nominal. 230 volts as a perceived UK standard was only adopted because to comply with EU regs . In reality the UK network was designed and set up for 240 volts nominal and all LV transformers supplying customers are set on 240 volts per phase delivered to the customer. In reality if there is very little load the volts go up slightly whilst if heavily loaded they go down. If you are on a long bit of rural damp string you have to add in the resistance as well. Thus the volts will be lower but theoretically still above the 216 volts. I live in rural Lincolnshire and have my own pole transormer. My voltage is nearly always 253 and most modern kit is designed to cope with this.
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#14 | |
Hexode
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Stourbridge, West Midlands, UK.
Posts: 434
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#15 | |
Hexode
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Stourbridge, West Midlands, UK.
Posts: 434
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#16 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Surrey, UK.
Posts: 4,330
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In a way, I'm lucky in that my mains on the edge of London tends between 225-232V (traceable Fluke 83), with an occasional giddy surge towards 235V- all quite benign, really. If it's significantly and consistently above 240V, it could be simply and efficiently "bucked" by 10V or so with an appropriate transformer- it won't correct the range of the variation but it will shift the centre-point. You could have a separate "vintage" feed.
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#17 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wombwell, Nr. Barnsley, South Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 53
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I just checked the voltage on one of my sockets and got a reading of 227v
I used to have the exploding light bulb problem; but not any more. I've now changed all my lights to low energy ones now so that problem shouldn't happen anyway. I was told by the installation electrician that all modern appliances must be able to run correctly on 220v. I have some old appliances, and they seem to be coping o.k. on the lower than 240v supply that they were designed for. My T.V. is an old 21" Matsui 2096R CRT model, and that works perfectly. My radio is an even older Fergusson 388A. Regards Ralph Last edited by ralph2472; 7th Jul 2013 at 3:15 pm. Reason: addition |
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#18 |
Retired Dormant Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Cambridge, UK.
Posts: 97
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Our voltage has always been on the high side - it normally hovers between 248V and 251V.
Once I nearly found this out the hard way, when I used a Uher tape recorder mains adapter that had been set on the voltage dial to the 230V position. After about a minute it had heated up to such an extent it was not possible to hold it. Suffice to say it was promptly disconnected and changed to the 250V setting, with no further problems or heating. I now always make sure where appliances have a mains adjustment setting it is always set at least to 240V!, and on some older appliances where there is an additional setting 0f 250V - set it to that. Out of interest we live only 60 feet away from an electricity substation. Ian. |
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#19 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lynton, N. Devon, UK.
Posts: 6,941
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Probably not. Significantly under-run (20% or more) is a different story though. And the same could apply to reasonably modern electronic equipment too.
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#20 |
Octode
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Grantham, Lincolnshire, UK.
Posts: 1,135
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One thing that doesn't like to be underrun is heating. We have electric heating using a Nightstor boiler, and when the volts drop from 250 to 225 it can't charge overnight. Have wondered about a stabiliser but it does take 80A or so. And we are only about 100' from the 11kV transformer.
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