Akai 1710 Valved Reel to Reel.

[Twinkletoes]

Thanks all.
As Glyn said...one thing at a time.
In retrospect I don't have the knowledge for analogue recording nor the money needed nor the space for it all.
I do however absorb all the advice given above.
I have ordered a new digital multi track recorder which will also enable me to send recordings to you tube and family.
This little machine will do over and above what I need.
I will keep the Akai for prosperity, nostalgia and a reminder of past times.
I will fit the supplied speakers and that will do me for the time being.
I do not want to spend too much time getting engrossed with fine details and buying more equipment that if knackered, I will not be able to fix.
I am wary of valve equipment.
In 1961 my father was electrocuted fixing a valve juke box for friends. I lost him at age 10.
If I get too involved in this I will lose track ( pardon the pun) of the whole aim...
To record the music I play.

[Twinkletoes]

I have now wired up and connected the two external speakers. One does not work.
I have opened it all up and cleaned the jack plug contacts and given them a spray with electrolube.
Someone mentioned it could be C8 at fault?
I do not have a schematic for the 1710 so at a bit of a loss
Also.....yes....and " Behold" the large Cap next to the motor ( C3) has spewed its innards.
It is a 2 Micro Farads 240V.
There are two red wires at the bottom of it and two yellow or white wires at the top.
I take it it is a polarised Cap yes?
Red is pos?
What modern replacement would do?
Anything between what Farads and what voltage?
Does this cap make any difference to the sound?
Thanks Gentlemen in advance.
I could not just leave it inoperative so here I am " Hooked" ahem!!!

[Twinkletoes]

Addendum...
I have looked again at the large Cap attached to the motor and previously asked had it to do with the sound.
I have now traced the wires to a switch at the top of the machine that sets the speed so I am guessing this Cap stabilises the speeds and has nothing to do with the sound whereas C8 " does " have something to do with the sound direction to the speakers?..
I am guessing so please correct me.
Thanks.

[Uncle Bulgaria]

Some pictures would be helpful. Click 'Go Advanced' if you're using 'Quick Reply' and upload up to five. They'll be resized for you to save hosting space and bandwidth.

A service manual is available at Elektrotanya. There are several versions so you can search for your model if this one doesn't cut the mustard.

[Twinkletoes]

This is the capacitor in question.

[Twinkletoes]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bulgaria

Some pictures would be helpful. Click 'Go Advanced' if you're using 'Quick Reply' and upload up to five. They'll be resized for you to save hosting space and bandwidth.

A service manual is available at Elektrotanya. There are several versions so you can search for your model if this one doesn't cut the mustard.

Many thanks.
I am having a challenge to download it what with the pesky advertisements. TV

[Twinkletoes]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bulgaria

Some pictures would be helpful. Click 'Go Advanced' if you're using 'Quick Reply' and upload up to five. They'll be resized for you to save hosting space and bandwidth.

A service manual is available at Elektrotanya. There are several versions so you can search for your model if this one doesn't cut the mustard.

Many thanks.
I am having a challenge to download it what with the pesky advertisements.

[DMcMahon]

It is the motor run capacitor, it is non polarised and nothing to do with the sound.

David

[Twinkletoes]

Originally Posted by DMcMahon

It is the motor run capacitor, it is non polarised and nothing to do with the sound.

David

Thanks David.
I think I figured it out in the end that it is to do with the motor run.
I managed to get a new one this arvo.
Its smaller but the value is the same.
I soldered it on and presto...no bangs but it works.
The cleaning of the jack plug contacts inside the machine did the trick.
Both speakers work now.
It is marginally better but not exciting.
The book shelf speakers are little larger than the on board ones.
They are also not so top quality.
What size of speaker would be better?
I am wondering if the on board speakers were taken out and mounted in a solid cabinet would that make an improvement?
I guess....as has already been said....its not a top notch machine anyway and perhaps I am expecting too much.
The tapes are also old and I do not know how the material on them was recorded.
There are lots of governing factors I think.
But it does work now!

[DMcMahon]

Originally Posted by Twinkletoes

I am wondering if the on board speakers were taken out and mounted in a solid cabinet would that make an improvement?

Only way to know for sure is to try it but I consider unlikely to make much difference.

David

[DMcMahon]

Originally Posted by Twinkletoes

This is the capacitor in question.

Just a question of interest.

Your photos appear to only show the 2uF run capacitor, does your machine not have the 0.5uF (also a metal clad MP capacitor) additional run capacitor ?

Presumably your machine does not have the 50/60 cycles mains frequency changeover switch ?

David

[Whaam68]

The service manual with lots of pics and a schematic is available to download for free on hifi engine if you register.
I have a 1710 and you’d be better running it into the tape input of an integrated hifi amp with the speakers connected to that. The onboard amp is very low power. I recall mine sounded quite nice but it’s been a while since I used it.

[DMcMahon]

Originally Posted by DMcMahon

Your photos appear to only show the 2uF run capacitor, does your machine not have the 0.5uF (also a metal clad MP capacitor) additional run capacitor ?

David

I think I can see the 0.5uF Motor Run capacitor in top left of first photo at Post 25.

David

[saxmaniac]

I have one of these and as it's only going to be used on 50Hz, just used a 2.5uF motor capacitor instead of the 2uF and separate 0.5 uF. The 50/60hz switch simply adds these together. I found all other capacitors were such good quality they didn't need replacing. It's vital to clean old grease from everything that moves and re lubricate. This will take away some of the load on those fragile cams

[DMcMahon]

Originally Posted by Twinkletoes

Addendum...
I have looked again at the large Cap attached to the motor and previously asked had it to do with the sound.
I have now traced the wires to a switch at the top of the machine that sets the speed so I am guessing this Cap stabilises the speeds and has nothing to do with the sound whereas C8 " does " have something to do with the sound direction to the speakers?..
I am guessing so please correct me.

Thanks.

I referenced C8 in Post # 8, there are two C8's, one for the left channel and one for the right channel.

Note the 2uF motor run capacitor on the schematics I have seen is C20 and the 0.5uF motor run capacitor is C21. In Post 22 above you say the 2uF is C3 so you maybe are looking at a different version of the schematic, if so then C8 may also be a different number on your schematic.

David

[DMcMahon]

As I referenced in post 9, the schematic in the 1710W Service Manual identifies the capacitor I described as C8, is shown as C2.

Also in the 1710W manual the 2uF motor run capacitor is C602 and the 0.5uF is C601.

David