Pye pre war radio identification

[kevrobert]

Can someone help me identify the model of this Pye radio
and also does anyone have a schematic for it.
This is my first foray into Radio restoration and any help or advice
would be much appreciated.
Sincerely
Kevin

[dave walsh]

It's not beyond hope [perhaps] Kevin and welcome. Internal photos plus an indication of your knowledge level/skill set and safety awareness would progress things. Where did it turn up? Are there any chassis markings? How far do you hope to go with it? Help is at hand plus there is a whole section on restoration available to read on the site.

Dave W

[Boater Sam]

Its a Pye G10, post war, 1949.
Short superhet, 4 valves. Very conventional but has preset push button tuning.

Permanent magnet speaker, mains transformer AC only. Bit safer than an AC/DC chassis for a learner.
Ideal starter set, well done.

Details here,
https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/pye_g10.html

The makers own service sheet is available from the Vintage Radio Service Data on the right at the top of this page, better than a Trader sheet.

You will need to make a lamp limiter before you try to power it up. Simple.

[Boater Sam]

It seems that it may be an energised speaker after all looking at the circuit diagram.
Valves ECH33 EF39 EBL31 AZ31, Triode Heptode frequency changer, Pentode IF amp, Double diode Pentode output, and full wave rectifier. All easily available, the only one amongst them that gives me trouble is the EF39 but there are plenty of equivalents.

[G6Tanuki]

What a fascinatingly-styled radio: I like how the volume/tuning/pushbutton panel could have been the inspiration for car-radio front panel design some 40 years later!

[Andrewausfa]

Sort of like a Bush PB83 without the Teleflic. It's nice.

Andrew

[Trifocaltrev]

It looks very much like a pre-war Pye PS to me, I have the PSB Battery version. Check it out on Paul's disc.

Regards
Trevor.

[Wellington]

I think Trevor's onto something - the attractive cabinet (with its two horizontal stripes and curved top edge) is more ornate than that of the G10.

I would go for a PP/AC or a PP/B.

There's a picture here.

Whatever it is, it looks like a nice set, Kevin. I don't know your skill level, but there are some good tips here.

[Boater Sam]

You could be right, we will need the valve lineup to determine which it is. Kevin, hold fire on buying the circuit diagram, I may be misleading you. Now I see the G10 is much plainer.

[Trifocaltrev]

It could also be the PS or PSB the schematics for the PS are available from this site if it is the mains version and I have the PSB schematics if it is the battery version.

Regards
Trevor.

[kevrobert]

Many thanks for all your replies. I've attached a photo of the Chassis.
My electrical knowledge is really with cars and domestic wiring so its going to be a steep learning curve, but one I am looking forward to.
I've just ordered myself a book on vintage radio restoration. I am aware that the chassis becomes live and the lack of earth on these older
appliances. So far I have removed the chassis, freed off the push buttons sadly two missing, and started cleaning. I have a fair bit of rewiring to do above the chassis, as heat has taken its toll. I plan to swap out the capacitors for polypropylene versions once I determine the types. The audio transformer a T28 looks quite black, can I swap it out for new audio transformer and are they fairly universal? To me the mains transformer looks pretty tired also, so advice would be great. One step at a time I guess. Look forward to your replies, Kevin

[Trifocaltrev]

Looking at the valves, it is either a PP or PS which are almost identical. The chassis should not be live on this set as it is an AC only set with a mains transformer.

Live chassis are normally only found on AC/DC universal sets where if the polarity is incorrect the chassis can indeed become live.

Regards
Trevor.

[Boater Sam]

Most parts like transformers, tuning capacitor, mechanicals are specific to this radio.
No new replacements of the originals are available. Either used parts, not easy to source or re-wound or repaired parts are the only ways.
Valves are easy, its just a case of finding them.

[dave walsh]

Although only a basic four valve set Kevin, the push button frame adds sophistication but shouldn't make it too difficult. Plenty of help from people with great skills here [not me sadly]. If the cabinet is restored you may have something stylish and well worth the effort. Don't be put off by the transformers at this stage, which often function despite appearances [like me sometimes]. As Sam said, it wont be a live chassis job which is a bonus. Those designs use a dropper resistance chain with valve heaters in series etc, saving on the cost of the major component in a set but it can be more risky. Usually the only earth requirement with either type of set, relates to the radio frequency circuits at the front end [along with the aerial-nothing to do with a mains earth.

You will probaly be advised to remove the valves and note their details, then you can check the Mains TR windings and smoothing capacitors before getting anywhere near applying mains power. Apart from your book, the "good tips" referred to earlier, by Wellington, are actually a very comprehensive guide to restoration that will gave you the basics and a platform for further questions. The basic rule is be systematic and don't change components at random and especially not wholesale. That way lies confusion. Plenty of general cleaning first as well. It's interesting that, given what you said about your experience, car radio design was mentioned in post 5*.

Dave