Repairing an Uher CR 160 - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

benhudson · 24th Jun 2025, 5:28 pm

Hi,

I'm working on a Uher CR 160 (similar to a CR 240 but with Dolby C) which came to me in quite bad condition. I began with some mechanical work including replacing belts, making a new pinch roller and replacing the motor, which had a damaged pulley, for a newer Uher one (and changing R108 to suit).

However I am now having some electronic problems which are beyond me. I have done other mechanical and electronic repairs on a Sony WM-D6C and a couple of Aiwa HS-PC202 portables including full recaps so I'm okay with the nuts and bolts but I am not very good yet at diagnosing mystery problems.

I first tried it with the Uher p/s Z131 (UK power, set to 220V) which seems to have some problems of its own as it supplies 25V, ran hot and blew its 80mA fuse. The voltage range is specified 7-18V so there may have been some overvoltage damage in the main unit (in particular the capacitors on the removable right angle board got hot but I think I unplugged it in time).

Running it on batteries (7.2V from rechargeables), here are some observations which may suggest what to look at next:

1. When batteries are inserted & the power/volume switch is on, the motor runs constantly and the flywheels turn. This happens whether a cassette is inserted or not. When fast forward / rewind is engaged and switch K2 actuated it stops after a moment. This occurred right from the start.

2. I thought switch K1 might be the reason it runs constantly but I checked and it is open when a cassette is absent and closed when one is loaded which seems correct.

3. There are now no lights (incandescent or LED) and the soft switches don't do anything; the relay never energises. I do remember when I very first tried it with the Z131 the lights did come on, and the relay did work to put the pinch roller against the capstan, so I'm not sure what has changed since then. The wire of cassette light 48 is broken but from the schematic this bulb isn't in series with the other two VU bulbs so I don't think that's why the others have gone. The pulse generator bulb doesn't light either but not 100% sure what the expected behaviour of that is. I did at one point break one of the wires from the relay but I repaired it and it looks fine now so it's more as if the entire front panel is out of action.

I would say it seems like there are two problems, either thermal damage or a broken connection somewhere causing the lack of lights / control / relay function and perhaps some short somewhere which is causing the motor to run when it shouldn't, but I'm not sure where to look next. The CR 160 is not very common but most of the parts are shared with the CR 240; I have read through various threads on here but no-one seems to have had a similar problem.

Indy Blue Babe · 3rd Aug 2025, 8:55 pm

Hello Ben,

I have enjoyed restoring and still have

a number of these UHERs from the CR124, 210, 240, 160 and 1600. Still looking for a CR260.

First it's not the best idea to use an old unknown power supply to test an old unknown player as you found out. At the early stage I always use new dry cell batteries.

The CR160 uses some very fragile (thin) hook up wires in the front panel.

From your description it sounds like someone else has been in the player before you and this is where most of the problems start. Removing the front panel can easily damage these wires and cause havoc. There are some electro-mechanical issues that may also be causing problems but my best guess is broken wires.

Where abouts in Brum are you?

benhudson · 4th Aug 2025, 11:55 am

Thanks for your reply - they are neat little units with nice consistent styling so quite attractive to collect, never seen a CR260 before but seems to be an autoreverse version of the CR240? I'm always keeping an eye out for the matching VG840 and Z140 amps too.

The wires from the front panel certainly seem prone to damage and would be much improved if they were just slightly longer! Some of the screws are also in difficult positions very close to the wires. There are definite signs of things being desoldered and when I first got it the tab which moves the head assembly was incorrectly positioned so someone has definitely had a go at it before me. This particular unit is in quite bad cosmetic condition so it would be okay if it ended up being a parts donor for a better looking one but they only come up quite infrequently compared to the CR210/240s. I'll have another look to see if there are any broken wires.

I'm based in north Birmingham.

Uncle Bulgaria · 4th Aug 2025, 1:53 pm

I have several Uhers. Z140/VG840/VG740 stack and a few CR240s, reel-to-reels and a CG362 which shares transport commonalities with the CR models.

If you don't have a service diagram, then I strongly recommend getting the set (genuine originals) from SDS Consult. Their pricelist PDF is towards the bottom of the page. These are invaluable as they are colour coded and infinitely more legible and useful than any scanned PDFs you may have come across online.

The Z131 is the correct PSU for the CR160. It sounds as if you have a problem inside, which is not unusual. There is a rectifier and one or more capacitors inside. If you have a bench power supply you can test the capacitors at working voltage for leakage. I have had one Uher PSU where the transformer insulation has broken down, but in my experience this is uncommon.

On the CR240, the parts around the BD241 on the PSU board (no. 600) inside the Uher is the first port of call as this is required for the Z131 to supply the unit. You need to check the contacts at the back end of the battery compartment are connected - they can fracture and not project beyond the plastic contact plate, thus not making contact with the PSU or batteries. The heat you mention could be from excessive current draw, indicating a short circuit. The ribbon cable between 600 and the main board 1-99 can fracture if stressed. Check continuity.

Check this thread for the correct operation of the banks of switches. With the top off, it's easy to run the machine without a cassette inserted, but you need to make sure the relevant switches are manipulated otherwise the loading mechanism can be a head-scratcher. Several parts have to engage at once, and this is described clearly in the manual.

Welcome to the forum!

24th Jun 2025, 5:28 pm	#1
benhudson Diode Join Date: Jun 2025 Location: Birmingham, West Midland, UK. Posts: 2	Repairing an Uher CR 160 Hi, I'm working on a Uher CR 160 (similar to a CR 240 but with Dolby C) which came to me in quite bad condition. I began with some mechanical work including replacing belts, making a new pinch roller and replacing the motor, which had a damaged pulley, for a newer Uher one (and changing R108 to suit). However I am now having some electronic problems which are beyond me. I have done other mechanical and electronic repairs on a Sony WM-D6C and a couple of Aiwa HS-PC202 portables including full recaps so I'm okay with the nuts and bolts but I am not very good yet at diagnosing mystery problems. I first tried it with the Uher p/s Z131 (UK power, set to 220V) which seems to have some problems of its own as it supplies 25V, ran hot and blew its 80mA fuse. The voltage range is specified 7-18V so there may have been some overvoltage damage in the main unit (in particular the capacitors on the removable right angle board got hot but I think I unplugged it in time). Running it on batteries (7.2V from rechargeables), here are some observations which may suggest what to look at next: 1. When batteries are inserted & the power/volume switch is on, the motor runs constantly and the flywheels turn. This happens whether a cassette is inserted or not. When fast forward / rewind is engaged and switch K2 actuated it stops after a moment. This occurred right from the start. 2. I thought switch K1 might be the reason it runs constantly but I checked and it is open when a cassette is absent and closed when one is loaded which seems correct. 3. There are now no lights (incandescent or LED) and the soft switches don't do anything; the relay never energises. I do remember when I very first tried it with the Z131 the lights did come on, and the relay did work to put the pinch roller against the capstan, so I'm not sure what has changed since then. The wire of cassette light 48 is broken but from the schematic this bulb isn't in series with the other two VU bulbs so I don't think that's why the others have gone. The pulse generator bulb doesn't light either but not 100% sure what the expected behaviour of that is. I did at one point break one of the wires from the relay but I repaired it and it looks fine now so it's more as if the entire front panel is out of action. I would say it seems like there are two problems, either thermal damage or a broken connection somewhere causing the lack of lights / control / relay function and perhaps some short somewhere which is causing the motor to run when it shouldn't, but I'm not sure where to look next. The CR 160 is not very common but most of the parts are shared with the CR 240; I have read through various threads on here but no-one seems to have had a similar problem.

3rd Aug 2025, 8:55 pm	#2
Indy Blue Babe Diode Join Date: Aug 2025 Location: Nottingham, Nottinghamshire, UK. Posts: 1	Re: Repairing an Uher CR 160 Hello Ben, I have enjoyed restoring and still have a number of these UHERs from the CR124, 210, 240, 160 and 1600. Still looking for a CR260. First it's not the best idea to use an old unknown power supply to test an old unknown player as you found out. At the early stage I always use new dry cell batteries. The CR160 uses some very fragile (thin) hook up wires in the front panel. From your description it sounds like someone else has been in the player before you and this is where most of the problems start. Removing the front panel can easily damage these wires and cause havoc. There are some electro-mechanical issues that may also be causing problems but my best guess is broken wires. Where abouts in Brum are you?

4th Aug 2025, 11:55 am	#3
benhudson Diode Join Date: Jun 2025 Location: Birmingham, West Midland, UK. Posts: 2	Re: Repairing an Uher CR 160 Thanks for your reply - they are neat little units with nice consistent styling so quite attractive to collect, never seen a CR260 before but seems to be an autoreverse version of the CR240? I'm always keeping an eye out for the matching VG840 and Z140 amps too. The wires from the front panel certainly seem prone to damage and would be much improved if they were just slightly longer! Some of the screws are also in difficult positions very close to the wires. There are definite signs of things being desoldered and when I first got it the tab which moves the head assembly was incorrectly positioned so someone has definitely had a go at it before me. This particular unit is in quite bad cosmetic condition so it would be okay if it ended up being a parts donor for a better looking one but they only come up quite infrequently compared to the CR210/240s. I'll have another look to see if there are any broken wires. I'm based in north Birmingham.

4th Aug 2025, 1:53 pm	#4
Uncle Bulgaria Dekatron Join Date: May 2016 Location: Cornwall, UK. Posts: 3,000	Re: Repairing an Uher CR 160 I have several Uhers. Z140/VG840/VG740 stack and a few CR240s, reel-to-reels and a CG362 which shares transport commonalities with the CR models. If you don't have a service diagram, then I strongly recommend getting the set (genuine originals) from SDS Consult. Their pricelist PDF is towards the bottom of the page. These are invaluable as they are colour coded and infinitely more legible and useful than any scanned PDFs you may have come across online. The Z131 is the correct PSU for the CR160. It sounds as if you have a problem inside, which is not unusual. There is a rectifier and one or more capacitors inside. If you have a bench power supply you can test the capacitors at working voltage for leakage. I have had one Uher PSU where the transformer insulation has broken down, but in my experience this is uncommon. On the CR240, the parts around the BD241 on the PSU board (no. 600) inside the Uher is the first port of call as this is required for the Z131 to supply the unit. You need to check the contacts at the back end of the battery compartment are connected - they can fracture and not project beyond the plastic contact plate, thus not making contact with the PSU or batteries. The heat you mention could be from excessive current draw, indicating a short circuit. The ribbon cable between 600 and the main board 1-99 can fracture if stressed. Check continuity. Check this thread for the correct operation of the banks of switches. With the top off, it's easy to run the machine without a cassette inserted, but you need to make sure the relevant switches are manipulated otherwise the loading mechanism can be a head-scratcher. Several parts have to engage at once, and this is described clearly in the manual. Welcome to the forum!