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Vintage Computers Any vintage computer systems, calculators, video games etc., but with an emphasis on 1980s and earlier equipment. |
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#321 |
Dekatron
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Derby, UK.
Posts: 7,735
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The ZX81 keyboard was never very highly regarded as a keyboard, and one of the most popular upgrades was a "proper" keyboard.
You can easily build something better with tactile switches and copper-strip breadboard. The ZX cursor keys are 5, 6, 7, 8, 0 (in the same order, left-down-up-right as vi) not 6, 7, 8, 9, 0, and therefore span two half-rows of the matrix. But you should be able to use 4016 / 4066 bilateral switches to simulate keystrokes.
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If I have seen further than others, it is because I was standing on a pile of failed experiments. |
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#322 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Newcastle, Tyne and Wear, UK.
Posts: 11,091
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I stand corrected - I was thinking in any case that by indulging in my usual fetish for optocouplers, the stick could turn on the five opto leds fed from a common supply and through a common return, and the opto outputs could be across any key / row intersection desired, no matter whereabouts in the row / column matrix they might be. Add a bit of switching and you can 'set' the output matrix to match the keys used on a few different games.
I can't remember if the '81 ever came to have a de facto standard joystick, in the way that the 'Kempston' became one of two standards - the other being the Interface 2 standard - on the Spectrum. My 'Other' ZX81, the one which is suffering from weak UHF output, is in a full sized third party 'Dktronics' enclosure / keyboard - in fact I 'rescued' it from a fellow forum member precisely because it had that rather uncommon form factor. It's in really nice condition as well. The modern replica replacement keyboard membranes are apparently a lot better than the originals, in so far as any membrane keypad can ever be good, of course. Last edited by SiriusHardware; 4th May 2020 at 4:20 pm. |
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#323 | |
Hexode
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middlesbrough, North Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 442
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#324 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Newcastle, Tyne and Wear, UK.
Posts: 11,091
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The replacement arrived today, but when I peeled off the original membrane all of the incredibly sticky backing remained on the casing instead of coming off with the old membrane as I rather hoped it would.
I don't want the new membrane to get off to a bumpy start, so I'm going to have to have a think about how to get the old sticky stuff off. IPA barely makes a dent in it. What did you do? |
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#325 | |
Hexode
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middlesbrough, North Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 442
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#326 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Staffordshire Moorlands, UK.
Posts: 5,171
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hair dryer set to high and a used razor blade
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Kevin |
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#327 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Newcastle, Tyne and Wear, UK.
Posts: 11,091
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#328 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worksop, Nottinghamshire, UK.
Posts: 5,536
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That sounds like roley poly glue. Just roll it up into little balls and pick them off.
A cloth dampened with solvent will get any finger marks off before you apply the new keypad. |
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#329 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Newcastle, Tyne and Wear, UK.
Posts: 11,091
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I change button membranes all the time at work and I agree that is how it usually goes, but this one was exceptionally resilient. I had to soak it in IPA and use a brass scruffle pad (normally used for cleaning soldering iron tips) before it would really start to break up so I could remove it in the usual fashion.
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