UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Powered By Google Custom Search Vintage Radio and TV Service Data

Go Back   UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum > Specific Vintage Equipment > Other Vintage Household Electrical or Electromechanical Items

Notices

Other Vintage Household Electrical or Electromechanical Items For discussions about other vintage (over 25 years old) electrical and electromechanical household items. See the sticky thread for details.

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools
Old 28th Feb 2016, 10:50 am   #61
CambridgeWorks
Nonode
 
CambridgeWorks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Spalding, Peterborough, Cambridgeshire, UK.
Posts: 2,851
Default Re: 1930's (?) GM Frigidaire

I used to be in domestic refrigeration nearly 40 years ago, but no longer am.
I am surprised nobody has mentioned the f-gas regulations, some information here:
https://www.gov.uk/guidance/qualific...ntaining-f-gas
Even leak testing needs a person to have a certificate!
One earlier reply mentioned having some gas of their own. I would certainly look into the legality of this if I were them.
On a more positive note, I offer the following for consideration.
Yes, the fridge is so old it would have originally been a belt driven compressor. The current unit looks 1950s I think. R12 is now banned!
The condenser (looks like a radiator) does appear to have 2 "wings" fitted to guide airflow from a fan. A fan was normal and allowed units to run at maximum capacity and efficiency. If the fan failed, the condenser and compressor soon overheated and refrigeration virtually stopped. I must say though, this was always fitted on multiple tube row type condensers. I do not recall seeing a single row like in the picture. In reality, it would probably be a bit less efficient at dissipating heat than the flat grid type seen on modern refrigerators.
Without getting too technical, just remember, a refrigerator does not "add" cold, it removes heat. This heat then needs dissipating into surrounding ambient air, hence the condenser. More efficient condenser cooling (eg fan) results in more efficient cooling.
Electrically, I would be very wary of build quality, especially parts accessible to potential users of this refrigerator. Earthing may not be too good (or even non- existent) around the thermostat.
A thermal overload was used on all the sealed compressors I ever saw, dating back to early 60s. Early types being "klixon" or similar thermal type.
This comprised a bi-metal strip with a small wire heating element behind. The element and switch contacts being in series. This was placed in close contact with the compressor and wired in series with the "common" motor terminal. The 2 other sealed terminals being start and run winding. There is also a current operated relay in series with the run winding.
Upon switch on, the compressor is stalled and draws a high current through this relay. This then energizes and applies voltage to the start winding, starting rotation. As rotation increases, the run winding current reduces and the relay releases, disconnecting the start winding. As someone said, make sure you have a large plug fuse because of the high start current. 13A is what I recommend.
IF everything is working ok, the condenser will get hot, the ice box cool. There will probably be a hissing or gurgling noise from the ice box. The suction pressure will be quite low, probably around 10psi. The discharge pressure may be around 150psi. Discharge pipe goes to the condenser and will be hot when working. The pressures depend on temperature. (Charts available via google).
If the refrigerator is switched off and on again within say less than 1 or 2 minutes, the compressor may stall due to the residual high head pressure. It will buzz a few seconds and then a "click" should be heard as the klixon device operates. This can happen several times before normal running continues. We called it "short cycling". It is essential the compressor has full mains voltage available!
Gas leaks are usually accompanied by a slight trace of oil wetting around the leak. If it drips it is a considerable leak! If you can hear it, it is major!
I have seen leaks with a tiny oil smear around a brazed joint that take possibly 1 or 2 years to discharge gas sufficient to cause a problem.

I hope this information is of use to you and wish you well with this project. However, if there is an operation problem, it may be prohibitive to rectify due to the now banned R12 refrigerant.
Kind regards, Rob
__________________
Apprehension creeping like a tube train up your spine - Cymbaline. Film More soundtrack - Pink Floyd
CambridgeWorks is online now  
Old 28th Feb 2016, 4:23 pm   #62
AC/HL
Dekatron
 
AC/HL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Heckmondwike, West Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 9,637
Default Re: 1930's (?) GM Frigidaire

Quote:
Originally Posted by robinshack View Post
I used to be in domestic refrigeration nearly 40 years ago, but no longer am. I am surprised nobody has mentioned the f-gas regulations
It's not really our subject, just a general interest in all things vintage. It's always useful to get a knowledgeable viewpoint on more specialised items.
AC/HL is offline  
Closed Thread

Thread Tools



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:04 am.


All information and advice on this forum is subject to the WARNING AND DISCLAIMER located at https://www.vintage-radio.net/rules.html.
Failure to heed this warning may result in death or serious injury to yourself and/or others.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright ©2002 - 2023, Paul Stenning.