Advance A.F sig gen type H1

[vampyretim]

Hi,

I've needed a proper signal generator for a long time and decided to buy one on eBay. It's an Advance H1. I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for but thought that I would take a chance on this one. I really wanted one for servicing hi fi amplifiers and didn't particularly want a valve powered signal generator.

Anyway I wanted to know what kind of output cable would be used with one of these?

Does anyone have any experience with this model or similar?

The sine wave seems okay and the frequency isn't too far out. Does anyone recommend that I recap it?

Many thanks.

[Skywave]

I believe that the output socket is a Belling-Lee T.V. aerial type - although in yours, looking at the photo, it may have been changed to something else.
As for a suitable cable, a length of 75 Ω coax. should suffice, since the highest freq. for the sine wave output is 50 kHz and 25 kHz (approx.) for the 1:1 square wave (if that is fitted: it was an option.)
There are not a lot of capacitors in there, so I would replace the electrolytics and other ones in the range 0.01 to 0.5 uF with new. Also check the values of the various resistors: chances are many will require replacement.

Al.

[Station X]

My own Advance signal generator, albeit an RF one, uses a 1960's car radio type socket and plug.

I cut one end off an aerial extension cable and fitted croc clips.

[Silicon]

The inside view of the connector does look like a Belling Lee TV connector but the outside view reminds me of a MUSA connector.

Replacing low value electrolytics with polypropylene film capacitors may produce a better waveform.

[Bazz4CQJ]

My own experience with older, Advance RF sig gens has been to leave them alone rather than re-cap and I've not had any problems. I have done some re-capping in a Taylor sig gen, which used some Hunts Mouldseal caps, which are not present in yours.

I'm pretty sure we had a H1 at school, which we used to play with in the radio club, hooking it up with a scope - "play" being the operative word .

B

[chriswood1900]

Tim
It looks to be in good condition and other have set probably best left alone as the sign wave looks OK and if its like that on all ranges without signs of hum it should be fine. The output looks like a TV aerial socket Bellling Lee 75ohm so it should be easy to make up a cable using some good audio coax from that to a phono for audio input, impedance matching is rarely important at audio frequencies unless you want to calibrate the output.
Chris

[Diabolical Artificer]

I have a H1 which didn't work when I got it, it needed a new 6SN7, I also replaced a few electrolytics. I fitted mine with a BNC too and replaced a few resistors in the amplitude range switch. When i got a counter I tweeked mine to get it nearer to what's on the dial.

A few things to note when testing amps with these, first the THD specs aren't brilliant*, when you switch to sq wave it's twice the amplitude of the sine and lastly the amplitude range switch gives you odd values instead of 1v, 2v 5v for instance. i found this a pain when testing audio transformers; it's nice to put 1v in, instead of 1.23v, makes things simple.

That said I use my all the time, it's good for a quick sweep test, simply switch ranges, monitor the OP of the DUT on a scope, if the OP amplitude stays the same, frequency response is flat. also my H1 is bullet proof, since fixing it I've had no trouble at all, it just works.

* If you want a very low THD sinewave I have a simple circuit using a TL072 opamp, I use mine for very low THD+N measurements.

If you want a cable to fit your H1 without changing to BNC, pm me, should have one somewhere.

Andy.

[vampyretim]

Thanks for all of your replies.

I've posted a better picture of it.

Please let me know your thoughts.

[ms660]

https://www.cricklewoodelectronics.c...dard-Plug.html

Lawrence.

[Diabolical Artificer]

I have a box of those if you want one Tim, yours for the postage.

Andy.