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Old 15th Apr 2015, 9:29 pm   #1
Phil G4SPZ
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bewdley, Worcestershire, UK.
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Default Swan D01 Teasmade success

A friend brought his Teasmade round today for me to look at. The problem was intermittent contact on the left-hand 'Set/Tea Now' switch. He'd partially dismantled the machine and injected some switch cleaner, but to no avail.

On the bench - er, sorry, the garden table - I investigated how to dismantle the unit sufficiently to extract the PCB and switches for closer attention. Swan used 'Torx' screws to hold the base on, presumably to deter the average owner from getting inside. I can now understand why... Once the base is off, to proceed any further you need to take off the clock hands, which makes it necessary to remove the clear front Perspex cover. This is secured by six tabs, of which two are inaccessible, but the trick is to release the visible four from the rear, then gently lift up the free end of the Perspex cover and very carefully, using a small screwdriver, prise the remaining two tabs undone from the front. Surprisingly, I managed to do this without breaking them.

Once the cover is off, set the clock and alarm hands to 12.00 then remove the hands. Then remove the dial panel, hidden beneath which will be found the single screw securing the clock back panel. Once this screw is removed, the back panel comes away and a central tab can be released, allowing the PCB and switches to be lifted out. Pull off the six connectors, making a note of what goes where, and the PCB comes free to be worked on.

With care, the switch rocker can be pulled away after gently prising the sides of the switch housing apart to release the rocker pivot, taking care that the spring-loaded plunger does not fly away. The SPDT centre-off switch itself consists of a V-shaped rocker which pivots on a central V-shaped contact. I used Greygate 'Paste Polishing No.5' (a.k.a.'Bake-O-Bryte') applied sparingly using a cotton bud to all the contact surfaces. Reassembly is straightforward. Although not actually giving trouble at the time, I treated the second switch to a similar overhaul.

On careful examination of the print side of the PCB, I wasn't happy with the quality of the soldered joints between board and switch contacts, so I re-soldered them all, just in case.

Once the Teasmade was reassembled it worked perfectly, so I celebrated with a cuppa!

My only previous experience with Teasmades was on my own Goblin 855, which is electrically so simple that I do wonder why Swan felt it necessary in the mid-1980s to design-in a PCB complete with on-board 24 volt PSU, two relays and at least two ICs to do essentially the same job as a couple of microswitches did for Goblin!

Phil
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