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General Vintage Technology Discussions For general discussions about vintage radio and other vintage electronics etc. |
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27th Nov 2017, 10:19 pm | #21 |
Pentode
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Poole, Dorset, UK.
Posts: 129
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Re: Workshop lining
Ok on walls - my shed is 150 x 15overlap boards outside, sheet of polythene, then 9mm osb. No insulation and concrete slab floor. if cold, I turn the fan heater on.
Roof is box section steel, which attracts condensation. Best cheap solution for the roof, please. &3 JohnB G8JMB |
28th Nov 2017, 12:40 am | #22 |
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Middlewich, Cheshire, UK. & Winter in the Philippines.
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Re: Workshop lining
Another vote for OSB (Sterling board) with white emulsion on top. Cheap, looks good, very durable. Would only introduce plaster board as another layer if some fire resistance was required, its a pest when fixing things to it, dusty when dry, disgusting when damp.
Most plasterboards are imperial one dimension and metric in the other! |
28th Nov 2017, 12:46 am | #23 |
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Location: Middlewich, Cheshire, UK. & Winter in the Philippines.
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Re: Workshop lining
JohnB, consider too, that you will have condensation inside the box sections as well, rusting inside where you can't see it.
Best long term solution though not easy is polyurethane foam spray covering meticulously applied once the steel is dry inside and out. Anti condensation paint, I think Screwfix do it, may help a bit. |
28th Nov 2017, 10:11 am | #24 |
Octode
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Oxfordshire/Bucks borders, UK.
Posts: 1,604
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Re: Workshop lining
On the steel sections, use red oxide paint.
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28th Nov 2017, 10:41 am | #25 | |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 13,454
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Re: Workshop lining
Quote:
Lawrence. |
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28th Nov 2017, 1:23 pm | #26 |
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Location: Middlewich, Cheshire, UK. & Winter in the Philippines.
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Re: Workshop lining
But you would screw the plasterboard onto the OSB not just the studs these days and the long edges should be across studs anyway. So a stud centre to centre of 2' is then correct if using 4' X 900mm baseboards or 6' X 900mm or even 8' X 1200mm if man enough.
We used to glue a lot of board rather than nail or screw, its faster, neater and causes less damage to adjacent boards. If tape and sponge or skim is used as a finish, the boards should be gapped 3mm all round as well. As an aside, there is a plasterboard product that we used but can't remember its name or maker that is plastic film finished covered on one side, ideal for lining where no other finishing is used, again glue fixed to avoid fixing points showing. |
28th Nov 2017, 3:45 pm | #27 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wiltshire, UK.
Posts: 13,953
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Re: Workshop lining
For the roof, spray-on foam is the best - if thats not an option get Celotex, cut it to size, and fix it to the inside of the roof using "dot-and-dab" with a can of filler foam. Then foam round all the gaps at the edges to prevent ingress of damp.
Not elegant, but it works: I've 'done' a few shipping-containers this way and it makes one hell of a difference - no more "open the door and get an instant rain-shower as the condensation drips off the roof" effect. |
28th Nov 2017, 4:57 pm | #28 | |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 13,454
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Re: Workshop lining
Quote:
Fitting tapered edged plasterboard horizontal (More of a strain to tape, fill and sand horizontally) Vertical joints (Same problems as square edge unless you fit cover strips) Remember tapered edge is only tapered on the two side edges, top and bottom aren't tapered, they are the finished board thickness. If a flat finish is required for non tapered joints then those edges can be rebated with a slight taper, just enough so's the outer surface of the scrim will be about 2mm below the paper/plaster line, clean of as much dust as possible without making any more, prime the exposed plaster with diluted PVA and just as it starts to goes off slap the scrim tape on then the first coat of filler (It's an art) Fixing boards vertically and finishing off...Much easier all round. I've done horizontal board fixing but only the inner skin of a double skin jobs such as sound blocker (blue) or fire blocker (red) outer skin board was always vertical. Lawrence. |
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28th Nov 2017, 7:08 pm | #29 | |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 13,454
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Re: Workshop lining
Quote:
Lawrence. |
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29th Nov 2017, 12:34 am | #30 |
Nonode
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worcestershire, UK.
Posts: 2,039
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Re: Workshop lining
Evening everyone and many, many thanks for all your input.
Perhaps it would help if I post some photos of where I am with this! - however it will have to be tomorrow as my phone is on charge & that's where all my pics have been saved Best wishes Guy
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"What a depressingly stupid machine." [Marvin: HHGTTG] |
30th Nov 2017, 5:38 pm | #31 | |
Octode
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Oxfordshire/Bucks borders, UK.
Posts: 1,604
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Re: Workshop lining
Quote:
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30th Nov 2017, 9:42 pm | #32 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Evesham, Worcestershire, UK.
Posts: 4,241
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Re: Workshop lining
Wicks currently have it for £24.99 (falling to £21.99 if you buy 3).
But of course, price is but one factor, and not necessarily the more important one Looking forward to seeing the pictures, Guy |
30th Nov 2017, 10:32 pm | #33 |
Octode
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Oxfordshire/Bucks borders, UK.
Posts: 1,604
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Re: Workshop lining
Price has gone up then since I did my roof!
I've got a garage to re roof and a den to build too yet! |
1st Dec 2017, 12:02 am | #34 | |
Pentode
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Poole, Dorset, UK.
Posts: 129
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Re: Workshop lining
Quote:
73 JohnB |
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1st Dec 2017, 1:08 am | #35 | ||
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Re: Workshop lining
Quote:
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1st Dec 2017, 9:13 am | #36 |
Dekatron
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cornwall, UK.
Posts: 13,454
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Re: Workshop lining
Never come across it, only plasterboard I've fixed to suspended ceiling rails was plasterboard laths on one job and full sheets of sound blocker on another.
Lawrence. |
3rd Dec 2017, 3:49 pm | #37 |
Nonode
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Coulsdon, London, UK.
Posts: 2,152
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Re: Workshop lining
The original poster does not say if the workshop is a timber shed, brick outhouse or damp cellar.
If it has brick walls, have you considered fitting insulated plasterboard stuck onto the brick using adhesive foam. If you want heavy duty weight bearing shelves you may need to fit wooden battens to the wall and remove the foam in that area. Same with wall sockets and conduit. Foil backed material may turn your shed into a Faraday cage and stop radio signals getting in. |
7th Dec 2017, 2:00 pm | #38 |
Nonode
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worcestershire, UK.
Posts: 2,039
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Re: Workshop lining
Apologies for the delay in following up on my original post.
Just to summarise: The shed is 10'x6', bought via shedmonkey.com and is their 'hipex' (high apex) product. It's built from 12mm tongue & groove boarding. This has been treated with two applications of 'Barrettine' solvent-based wood preserver and allowed to dry before assembly. The base is formed of 24 'Ecodeck' plastic interlocking tiles which have been infilled with 100mm gravel; although the area concerned is brick-paved, I wanted to raise the overall height of the base structure off the ground to minimise the risk of early deterioration due to rainfall 'splashback'. This gravel base has in turn been treated with three drenchings of 'Pathclear' to discourage weed growth (unlikely as that might be in almost total darkness) as well as two powderings with ant-powder. There are gaps between the base bearer timbers through which I could get a pressurised weedkiller lance in the future but throughout the project, my consideration has been in terms of a low-maintenance, 'fit once and forget until such time as I fall off my twig' solution. The current status is as follows: Internal ceilings & walls have had damp-proof membrane applied followed by wood-fibre board insulation then covered with every-day bubble wrap to minimise 'fibre fall-out' (the green dust from it is evil and gets everywhere if/when disturbed by cutting/stapling). Original T&G floor has had DPM/wood-fibre insulation applied followed by 18mm MDF covered with a premium-priced off-cut of kitchen floor-grade 'lino' just to make it easy to keep clean (and find/pick up those tiny little screws that when dropped always seem to bounce/somersault three times, each time sounding as though they've landed close by - yet on the last bounce, they fly off into a random area anything up to ten feet away). I will upload pics soon ... I promise! Best wishes Guy
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"What a depressingly stupid machine." [Marvin: HHGTTG] |
7th Dec 2017, 3:30 pm | #39 |
Nonode
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worcestershire, UK.
Posts: 2,039
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Re: Workshop lining
I've chosen to upload these as zipped folders - each has a sub-folder containing five images and the numbering is sequential so as to keep the date-coding consistent.
First set of five; four more to follow. There's a passing nod to one of my favourite films in there as well and I offer a small Christmas gift of the liquid variety to the first person who identifies it Cheers Guy
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"What a depressingly stupid machine." [Marvin: HHGTTG] Last edited by Nymrod121; 7th Dec 2017 at 3:34 pm. Reason: corrected number of zipped folders |
7th Dec 2017, 3:33 pm | #40 |
Nonode
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Worcestershire, UK.
Posts: 2,039
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Re: Workshop lining
Second set of four.
That's it for now; progress is on hold pending approval by SWMBO of the C.E.P. (Capital Expenditure Proposal) re. plywood linings plus white paint. Cheers Guy
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"What a depressingly stupid machine." [Marvin: HHGTTG] |