Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

Okto1984 · 6th Sep 2014, 10:26 pm

I have two of these sets I use regularly and both have been stuck permanently in the on position for some time now. I can live with that and just use the socket switch, but one of them is now occasionally popping out and turning off. So I should probably replace the switches. I don't want it arcing or anything. Problem is, I got the impression before that it's difficult to do and I'd like some idea what the challenge is? My initial investigations suggest it's simple, so I guess I'm missing something?

The other challenge of course is finding a new switch to fit! I'm hoping to not end up getting another same vintage switch used as I guess it won't last so well if these two are representative of their life span.

Any advice much appreciated.

Studio263 · 7th Sep 2014, 10:32 pm

It is easy enough to do but as you've discovered nothing else really fits and you can't get the "proper" ones any more.

On the plus side, the push button is seperate from the switch and there is plenty of room on the little "shelf" to file away material, drill new holes, make brackets etc to fit whatever you want. I've used the "universal" type switches in these sets many times, it is a bit of a faff to to get them to fit "just right" but it can be done.

Make sure whatever you do is safe and sturdy though.

AC/HL · 8th Sep 2014, 12:22 am

You could try a photo. I have a few orphans, as I suspect do many of us.

Okto1984 · 8th Sep 2014, 6:23 pm

Just realised I meant to type 33xx, not 30xx.

Anyway, thank you both for the suggestions. On this advice I've had a closer look and removed it to investigate. I think the difficult to replace comments from before must have been down to the problems finding replacements, not the actual process of replacing it as taking it out isn't difficult.

I may have found the same style switch new to replace it though. It looks the same shape, has the same connections, is suitable for 250V, and from my measurements I took, appears to be the same dimensions. I'll share what happens when it's here and the product number if it works. The 6A rating is plenty for a TV, but will the inrush current matter? I need at least a 10A fuse in the plug, or it blows.

If this doesn't work out, I'll try a photo or perhaps modifying the sets for a new switch type. I'm not too worried about originality, but the beovision 9000 is in perfect condition though, could have been bought yesterday, so I'm reluctant to do anything that might damage it.

Welsh Anorak · 8th Sep 2014, 9:29 pm

Hi there
If you use a switch designed for a large-screen CRT television, then it will be of the right specification. It's worth ordering a couple to see which one needs the least modification to fit - the Ferguson and Philips/Sony types spring to mind as possibles.
If you give us an idea of the dimensions (I've forgotten!) I'll have a look for you - like most other TV repairers I have a lot of obsolete switches in stock.
Glyn

Studio263 · 9th Sep 2014, 12:10 pm

It it is a Beovision 9000 just short the switch out and use the one that is operated by the door (if it still works and isn't jammed up with fluff), simple!

Okto1984 · 9th Sep 2014, 8:35 pm

Hi Studio263, I didn't realise the sliding door has a second switch, despite owning this TV for many years! I never tried to close it before with the set on as it didn't seem a useful thing to do. It does however still work.

Hi Glyn, you for the kind offer to look in your switch collection. I'm not sure right now if I'll actually need you to though, as I currently have a couple of switches coming in the post, which I hope from the photo and data sheet will be a good match:

http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/c...h-2-pole-onoff

If you're curious however, you can find very detailed measurements in the data sheet under 'downloads', which appear to perfectly match the original switch.

Also, I'm wondering if Toneluck (who make the ones I've ordered) are a good make? My current (broken) switch from the 7802 doesn't have any branding, so no idea who made it. I may discover some more when I look inside the 9000, but it's a bit harder as there is less room inside the case, so I've not tried yet.

ntscuser · 10th Sep 2014, 3:22 am

I notice that switch has a plastic shaft, I assume it is of the push-on, push off type?

Does the original also have a plastic shaft or is it steel?

Also is there a high value resistor wired-in as in my Philips?

Okto1984 · 10th Sep 2014, 2:13 pm

Yes, this switch sits inside the TV case and is pushed by a bigger plastic button on the front. I think it's described as a latching switch. The main thing is that it switches on or off each time you push it, but the shaft always returns to the original position.

The original has a plastic shaft too. It's basically identical looking, with the exception of the markings.

I saw no resistor near the switch when I disassembled it. I also looked in the schematic and there's no resistor nearby. The mains comes straight in to the switch, with the wires soldered on to the switch, then two more go off from the other two terminals to the power supply board. On the board, there's a fuse, an X2 capacitor and then a transformer. The first resistor I encountered was *after* this transformer, so I don't think this is what you're thinking about?

ntscuser · 10th Sep 2014, 6:41 pm

Sounds like a straight swap to me?

Okto1984 · 11th Sep 2014, 5:56 pm

The switches came today, and it was a little more work than I hoped, but not too bad in the end.

They're almost identical to the originals in shape and size - but the mounting holes on the metal panel are slightly wider. However, this required altering the new switch rather than the TV, so all was good. I drilled them out a bit more until they matched the holes in the TV, then installed the switch with some nuts and bolts to make sure it would be firmly attached. The length of the shaft and the distance however is perfect.

The terminals also go through both sides of the switch - which I didn't see from the photo. I clipped off the ones on the bottom as I don't need them and they were in the way. They face a thick plastic board that's internal to the TV, so I feel it's safe enough to have some exposed live parts here. There's plenty more elsewhere inside the set anyway.

I'd prefer the exact switch, but I think these did well enough. They were pretty easy to modify and with bolts they're solidly attached.

6th Sep 2014, 10:26 pm	#1
Okto1984 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Winchester, Hampshire, UK Posts: 288	Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? I have two of these sets I use regularly and both have been stuck permanently in the on position for some time now. I can live with that and just use the socket switch, but one of them is now occasionally popping out and turning off. So I should probably replace the switches. I don't want it arcing or anything. Problem is, I got the impression before that it's difficult to do and I'd like some idea what the challenge is? My initial investigations suggest it's simple, so I guess I'm missing something? The other challenge of course is finding a new switch to fit! I'm hoping to not end up getting another same vintage switch used as I guess it won't last so well if these two are representative of their life span. Any advice much appreciated.

7th Sep 2014, 10:32 pm	#2
Studio263 Octode Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hampshire, UK. Posts: 1,577	Re: Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? It is easy enough to do but as you've discovered nothing else really fits and you can't get the "proper" ones any more. On the plus side, the push button is seperate from the switch and there is plenty of room on the little "shelf" to file away material, drill new holes, make brackets etc to fit whatever you want. I've used the "universal" type switches in these sets many times, it is a bit of a faff to to get them to fit "just right" but it can be done. Make sure whatever you do is safe and sturdy though.

8th Sep 2014, 12:22 am	#3
AC/HL Dekatron Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Heckmondwike, West Yorkshire, UK. Posts: 9,642	Re: Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? You could try a photo. I have a few orphans, as I suspect do many of us.

8th Sep 2014, 6:23 pm	#4
Okto1984 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Winchester, Hampshire, UK Posts: 288	Re: Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? Just realised I meant to type 33xx, not 30xx. Anyway, thank you both for the suggestions. On this advice I've had a closer look and removed it to investigate. I think the difficult to replace comments from before must have been down to the problems finding replacements, not the actual process of replacing it as taking it out isn't difficult. I may have found the same style switch new to replace it though. It looks the same shape, has the same connections, is suitable for 250V, and from my measurements I took, appears to be the same dimensions. I'll share what happens when it's here and the product number if it works. The 6A rating is plenty for a TV, but will the inrush current matter? I need at least a 10A fuse in the plug, or it blows. If this doesn't work out, I'll try a photo or perhaps modifying the sets for a new switch type. I'm not too worried about originality, but the beovision 9000 is in perfect condition though, could have been bought yesterday, so I'm reluctant to do anything that might damage it. Last edited by Okto1984; 8th Sep 2014 at 6:36 pm.

8th Sep 2014, 9:29 pm	#5
Welsh Anorak Dekatron Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: North Wales, UK. Posts: 6,918	Re: Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? Hi there If you use a switch designed for a large-screen CRT television, then it will be of the right specification. It's worth ordering a couple to see which one needs the least modification to fit - the Ferguson and Philips/Sony types spring to mind as possibles. If you give us an idea of the dimensions (I've forgotten!) I'll have a look for you - like most other TV repairers I have a lot of obsolete switches in stock. Glyn

9th Sep 2014, 12:10 pm	#6
Studio263 Octode Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hampshire, UK. Posts: 1,577	Re: Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? It it is a Beovision 9000 just short the switch out and use the one that is operated by the door (if it still works and isn't jammed up with fluff), simple!

9th Sep 2014, 8:35 pm	#7
Okto1984 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Winchester, Hampshire, UK Posts: 288	Re: Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? Hi Studio263, I didn't realise the sliding door has a second switch, despite owning this TV for many years! I never tried to close it before with the set on as it didn't seem a useful thing to do. It does however still work. Hi Glyn, you for the kind offer to look in your switch collection. I'm not sure right now if I'll actually need you to though, as I currently have a couple of switches coming in the post, which I hope from the photo and data sheet will be a good match: http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/c...h-2-pole-onoff If you're curious however, you can find very detailed measurements in the data sheet under 'downloads', which appear to perfectly match the original switch. Also, I'm wondering if Toneluck (who make the ones I've ordered) are a good make? My current (broken) switch from the 7802 doesn't have any branding, so no idea who made it. I may discover some more when I look inside the 9000, but it's a bit harder as there is less room inside the case, so I've not tried yet.

10th Sep 2014, 3:22 am	#8
ntscuser Hexode Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Coventry, West Midlands, UK. Posts: 280	Re: Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? I notice that switch has a plastic shaft, I assume it is of the push-on, push off type? Does the original also have a plastic shaft or is it steel? Also is there a high value resistor wired-in as in my Philips? __________________ Classic TV Show Theme Tunes

10th Sep 2014, 2:13 pm	#9
Okto1984 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Winchester, Hampshire, UK Posts: 288	Re: Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? Yes, this switch sits inside the TV case and is pushed by a bigger plastic button on the front. I think it's described as a latching switch. The main thing is that it switches on or off each time you push it, but the shaft always returns to the original position. The original has a plastic shaft too. It's basically identical looking, with the exception of the markings. I saw no resistor near the switch when I disassembled it. I also looked in the schematic and there's no resistor nearby. The mains comes straight in to the switch, with the wires soldered on to the switch, then two more go off from the other two terminals to the power supply board. On the board, there's a fuse, an X2 capacitor and then a transformer. The first resistor I encountered was after this transformer, so I don't think this is what you're thinking about?

10th Sep 2014, 6:41 pm	#10
ntscuser Hexode Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Coventry, West Midlands, UK. Posts: 280	Re: Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? Sounds like a straight swap to me? __________________ Classic TV Show Theme Tunes

11th Sep 2014, 5:56 pm	#11
Okto1984 Retired Dormant Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Winchester, Hampshire, UK Posts: 288	Re: Beovision 30xx/77xx power switch replacement - is it hard to do? The switches came today, and it was a little more work than I hoped, but not too bad in the end. They're almost identical to the originals in shape and size - but the mounting holes on the metal panel are slightly wider. However, this required altering the new switch rather than the TV, so all was good. I drilled them out a bit more until they matched the holes in the TV, then installed the switch with some nuts and bolts to make sure it would be firmly attached. The length of the shaft and the distance however is perfect. The terminals also go through both sides of the switch - which I didn't see from the photo. I clipped off the ones on the bottom as I don't need them and they were in the way. They face a thick plastic board that's internal to the TV, so I feel it's safe enough to have some exposed live parts here. There's plenty more elsewhere inside the set anyway. I'd prefer the exact switch, but I think these did well enough. They were pretty easy to modify and with bolts they're solidly attached.