Philips GP215 cartridge repair

[ben]

Restoring a Philips GP215 ceramic cartridge module.

This single-tip slide-in cartridge module was common from circa 1978 onwards in the lower end Philips line of record players. It consisits of a ceramic cartridge with four contact strips on the top, which slots directly into the arm of many players, or alternatively into the GP315 headshell which was sold as a drop- in replacement for the AG3306/22GP204, 22GP205….line. The stylus, however, is not replaceable: a new slide-in cartridge has to be purchased. Until now.

Given the increasing scarcity of ceramic cartridges these days, it makes sense to gain as much use from existing parts as possible. This is doubly true of proprietary parts such as this Philips, which cannot easily be replaced by generic spares.

The following is a rough and ready way to get some more usefulness from these carts that would otherwise be scrap due to having a worn or broken stylus tip. Note that it requires an aptitude for delicate work and a steady hand. Note also that it is imprecise; if you are worried about your records it would be better to buy a new GP215 module.

[ben]

First thing to do is gently prise the top off the cart with a jeweller’s flatbladed screwdriver. Put it aside.
Next step is a bit trickier. The rubber module inside must be removed. I found that gently prising this up from below – inserting the screwdriver blade under the stylus cantilever – worked best. Be careful not to crush or tear the four foil strips at the rear as you remove it.

Once free, the existing worn out stylus shank must be removed. I found that by gently picking away at the glue retaining it was helpful (not visible; weakening the glue can be achieved by inserting a pin alongside the stylus shank, where it enters the rubber suspension. Then you can pull the shank free.

Source a replacement shank, from a spare ceramic stylus assembly (obscure ones can be found for little on ebay) or as in this trial, a generic Chuo Denshi clone. The tip of the new stlyus cantilever may need some ‘levelling out’ otherwise the tracking angle will be too acute. The original seems to have a 12-15º angle. Warming it up and applying gentle pressure to the flat portion holding the tip is the way to go. I put a small screwdriver behind it whilst applying pressure.

[ben]

This next sequence is the trickiest! Add a tiny drop of superglue to the end of the cantilever shank (I must emphasise: not too much or the rubber will harden). Position the stylus shank so that the tip is pointing upwards and is not tilted on the horizontal plane (this is hard to achieve; if necessary practise inserting it into some blu tak or similar beforehand).

Hold the rubber assembly in one hand, with the side that usually faces the record uppermost. Grasp the stylus cantilever shank between two fingers and insert it, pushing it home. Not too far, bear in mind the exposed length of the original. Any problem with the horizontal plane must be corrected right away before the glue sets. This is tricky to get 100% right ‘by eye’, just make it the best you can.

Leave the module to set for an hour.

Reinsert into the cartridge body. The four foil tags must sit in the corresponding notches at the back. Be very careful to touch these as little as possible. Once in place, give them a gentle wipe with a q tip moistened with IPA as they tend to tarnish.

Likewise, clean also the four contacts in the headshell, top and bottom. This will ensure no intermittent audio.

Reattach the top part of the cartridge body, and test!

[John10b]

Thank you Ben, that is very informative and interesting.
Cheers
John

[Stylo N M]

Well done Ben, i love these fiddley jobs it takes some skill and patients to do that and it's certainly a challange. Very helpfull imformation there, thats great thank you.

Paul

[Chiltern]

Ben, I have a Philips cart which looks similar to your picture.

If it is of any interest, send a PM and I'll get it in the post.

Alan