Tandberg 12-41

[defender]

I have crackling in my record play amp switches so I took it apart, sprayed Deoxit into the switches and worked them from side to side.
Not long after I started one of the switches lost its positivity, so I stripped it further to investigate and found this crappy piece of plastic broken.



Anyone know what I can do about that?
I can't see parts being available, as its from 1966 ish.
I think I rapidly used all its remaining duty cycles up in minutes instead if years

[Ted Kendall]

Epoxy it back together?

[Station X]

Looks like an ideal candidate for 3D printing.

[llama]

Originally Posted by Station X

Looks like an ideal candidate for 3D printing.

...or the opposite: a piece of paxolin or nylon sheet of the right thickness and carve a matching part out of it.
Graham

[defender]

I think it might be nylon, but I'm not sure.
If I had a 3d printer I'd have a go, I may have a go at melting it back together, but not sure how long it will last and its under the top plate




That's a picture of the remaining one in place I'm wondering if I could glue it to the metal bit?

[DMcMahon]

Very difficult, I personally would try glue repair to the part first, either Epoxy, small amount of solvent weld (as used on ABS pipe fittings) or one of the many glues/cements specifically for plastic etc.

Some online people swear by the bicarbonate of soda + Superglue repair method but I have only had minimal sucess when trying it.

David

[ricard]

One option is to replace the plastic bit with a suitably bent piece of piano wire.

https://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/...ad.php?t=99207

[ben]

I had this happen on mine. Think I fixed it with some wire and an additional spring, will look for my notes.

[defender]

Lots of good ideas thanks all, interesting there was a thread about it that I didn't notice about using wire.

[defender]

Tried to melt it together, didn't go well apart from the smoke off it burning my eyes and nose it just didn't go well.
Now to find something like piano wire, I don't think welding wire will do I think that's mild steel though I might try.

[defender]

Looks good seems to function it gets it going again ? welding wire seems ok, but I was using leatherman that has serrated jaws which chews up the surface.
Fortunately it also has a diamond fine file to smooth out the rubbing surfaces.

Thanks for the link ricard.

[defender]

Back together with no switch crackle and minimal bits left.
Been running ok for half an hour

[ricard]

Great to see the wire method worked! There's something special about the model 12, it's one of my favorite Tandbergs, despite its shortcomings. It was also their first more or less wholly transistorized model (except for the magic eye valves), so historically significant. (Plus on a personal note I think it was launched the year I was born...).

Out of curiosity, do you know the diameter of the wire you used?

[defender]

Originally Posted by ricard

Great to see the wire method worked! There's something special about the model 12, it's one of my favorite Tandbergs, despite its shortcomings. It was also their first more or less wholly transistorized model (except for the magic eye valves), so historically significant. (Plus on a personal note I think it was launched the year I was born...).

Out of curiosity, do you know the diameter of the wire you used?

It does sound good and the switch cleaner seemes to have worked as no more crackles.
I saw a capacitor in mine dated 67 the year after I was born.
The wire was copper coated steel wire used for gas welding maybe 1.6mm but I'd have to measure it, it was all I had to hand, I've got loads of it.
Mines the magic eye version and they work because I bought a microphone for it while it was in bits, but I've tested it now ?

[ricard]

Interesting about the wire, thanks.

There is a follow-up model 1241X (launched in 1968 I believe), one of the first cross-field machines, which offers improvements in that it has separate playback volume controls, source mixing, and bass and treble controls that each cover a full -10 to +10 dB range, and mechanical level meters to top it off, so this time fully transistorized, but I still prefer the original model 12. Among other things, the playback volume controls on the 1241X are awkward to turn being a tad close to the head cover, and the speaker selector is simplified so it's not possible to use it for quick playback track selection when using the internal speakers as on the 12.

[defender]

I've measured the wire and it's 1.6mm.