Vintage 1971 Olympus Trip 35 Camera + case and lens cap

[ScottBouch]

Hi all,

I am a little reluctant to sell this as it has come through my family, but I am trying to have a clear out and have to be harsh on items that don't fit within my hobbies.

So I hope there is someone in this group who collects cameras or may actually use this with film.

It's in good clean shape, the shutter operates, and mechanical functions appear to work as they should.

Included is the lens cap, and leatherette case.

I have dated it to November 1971 using this guide: https://vintagelens.nl/2018/10/03/ho...lympus-trip35/

I have priced this against the prices of others sold online, and knocked a bit off what I think it's worth for the forum. Funds raised go toward helping other projects along.

Asking £32.50 including UK postage by PayPal. Please PM for details.

Cheers, Scott

[paulsherwin]

The classic early 70s point and shoot camera. Olympus ran a series of commercials with David Bailey using one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_Yo3FRPeQw

[TonyDuell]

No I don't want it, I've already got 3 or so of them..

But if you intend to use it you should be aware that the selenium cell can fail with time and cause it to overexpose the film. Let me explain how it works. Around the lens, behind that knobly plastic diffuser, there's a selenium solar cell. It feeds a movng coil meter insde the camera body. The brighter the light hitting the camera from the subject, the further the meter pointer swings. When you press the shutter release button, the meter pointer is mechanically trapped between bits of metal (hence the term 'lock needle automatic'). A feeler then moves up as far as it can, stopped by the meter pointer, how far the feeler gets determines the lens aperture. The meter movement can't provide enough force to set the aperture on its own, but can move the free-swinging needle which is then locked.

Problem is that the selenium cells fail with time. The result is that the camera 'thinks' the light is darker than it really is.

To be fair the Trip is one of the less problematic cameras for this. But you might have to do some repairs even if it seems to be working correctly.

[Yes, I fiddle with old cameras as well as electronics...]

[ScottBouch]

Thanks guys.

Is there a simple non-intrusive way to check the cell is working correctly? (also without developing film)

Cheers, Scott

[paulsherwin]

I don't know of a simple way to do it. In the old days you'd check the exposure accuracy by shooting a test roll while taking light measurements with a decent separate exposure meter and comparing the the results.

To be fair, any 50 year old camera will need some work done on it before it's suitable for serious photography. I suspect this camera will end up in somebody's collection, not taking holiday snaps in Bognor.

[G.Castle]

I've heard of this fault before, and have been told that keeping the camera in its case, or, at least in the dark when not in use, makes the cell last better. I don't know if that's true, perhaps Tony has an opinion?

It's a case of needing the correct equipment to test for this and set it up through the shutter: a roll of film is probably the cheapest way to check in the first place.

I have one of these old cameras that belonged to my wife who was a keen photographer, it is still in excellent working order, if Scott's has been kept well it shouldn't be in need of much attention.

(No sorry, don't need another one!)

Greg.

[TonyDuell]

Keeping the cell dark when not in use will extend the life of it. In the case of the Olympus Trip, keeping the lens cap on will do that, and is obvously a good idea for protecting the lens.

There are test instruments -- basically time-integrating photometers -- that are used to test/set up automatic exposure systems. There are various homebrew designs, some quite simple, but obviously not worth buying/building for one camera.

[paulsherwin]

Professional camera mechanics will have all sorts of fancy test gear, though many must have left the industry over the last 30 years.

[TonyDuell]

The books 'Camera Maintenance and Repair Book 1' and '...Book 2' by Thomas Tomosy have designs for various test instruments in them. To be fair they are probably not professional standard, and many of us here could design better versions, but they would be good enough for setting up an Olympus Trip.

[ScottBouch]

Thanks again guys... This camera has been kept with the lens cap on, and in it's zip case for the last approx 20 years at lest, so hopefully this won't be an issue.

So, I probably should add the "sold as seen" caveat regarding this potential issue.

Cheers, Scott.

[paulsherwin]

I think that goes without saying with a camera of this age.

[Uncle Bulgaria]

I have heard that the cell is actually fine, and that it's a myth they 'fade'. I've fixed both my Trip and a 1930s Contax IIIa with inoperable meters by cleaning the contact points, which certainly oxidise like any connection we're used to in old radios. Since the light hitting them provides the energy, I can see the argument that they're not like batteries with a chemical reaction to run down.

My Trip had some fungus in the viewfinder and light leaks, but it's easy to disassemble, clean and reseal. Great camera in regular use.

[ScottBouch]

So basically, everyone interested in these cameras already has one!

I think I will take that as a sign to keep hold of it as a family heirloom.

Ok, please close the thread, the camera is staying put.