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Old 3rd May 2008, 10:31 am   #21
Patrick Dixon
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Default Re: Garrard 401 - pointers for restoration

I bought a grease bearing 301 a few weeks ago to replace my Linn LP12 - which was moved on. It's a seriously good deck, and IMO better than the LP12. The 401 is essentially an updated version of the 301. Personally I think it deserves a better, more modern, arm than an SME 3009.

They are fairly easy to service: clean and re-lubricate the spindle bearing and the motor bearing - people recommend EP80 gear oil for the spindle and a light machine oil like 3-in-1 for the motor. You can also use 3-in-1 for the idler wheel bearing. You should also clean the idler and the inside of the platter with cellulose thinners to remove hardened rubber. The suppressors can be replaced using a re-manufactured part available on eBay.

I put my 301 in a temporary plinth, made from two layers of 18mm ply that I had to hand, supported on 4 squash balls (which is what Loricraft do with their plinths). I now have a piece of 30mm welsh slate, which I plan to get water jet cut to make a 'proper' plinth.

Here's a photo of it in the ply plinth with an air bearing // tracking arm and AT33PTG cartridge. It's probably the best vinyl replay I've heard.

http://www.yatecourtbarn.adsl24.co.uk/images/T4.JPG
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Old 3rd May 2008, 7:27 pm   #22
Leon Crampin
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Default Re: Garrard 401 - pointers for restoration

I have a Garrard 401 which I've owned from new - a very good deck.

I would suggest that putting EP (extreme pressure) oil anywhere near the bearings of this deck will cause damage. The extreme pressure additives in the oil which are sulphur and chlorine compounds are aggressive to copper - which is why a car gearbox for which EP oil is specified will have sintered iron rather than bronze selector forks. EP 80 is also far too thick.

A good quality this sewing machine oil or clock oil is a much safer option.

Leon.
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Old 4th May 2008, 2:01 am   #23
arjoll
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Default Re: Garrard 401 - pointers for restoration

Thanks everyone for those pointers.

Plinths: this will be sorted at bit further down the track - I have to sort out two good turntables first - but I plan to use layered plywood and MDF. There seems to be no consensus on the 'best' kind of material for a plinth, so I figure this is as good as any. My woodworking skills are marginal at best but I figure I can cope with this

At the moment I have a very temporary pinth just to sit them in to work on, made of 9mm MDF on leftover 'feet' from our kitchen joinery. I imagine it will sound terrible

Lubrication: sewing machine oil, clock oil and 3-in-1 oil - how similar are they? I'll also need to sort out what the best kind of grease for the various sliding parts is, but again I want to confirm if this is the cause of issues like the idler not retracting far enough to change to 78rpm.

Tonearm: at the moment I'll stick with the 3009, simply because I have two and think I may have sorted out the parts I am missing.
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Old 4th May 2008, 8:42 am   #24
Mike Phelan
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Default Re: Garrard 401 - pointers for restoration

Hi Andrew
I'll fill in one of your questions:
Clock oil comes in various grades, and is quite expensive because in its normal use, you don't use much.
Its main claim to fame is that it does not 'creep' - it stays put where it is placed; essential in clock use. In various grades. Unsuitable for most mechanical things that we use on here - tape and record decks tend to use sintered bearings and need the oil to 'soak in'.

Sewing machine oil is thinner than most clock oil, as is 3-in-1. As opposed to clock oil, it will find its way anywhere, so is very suitable for tape and record motors and idlers.

Grease - most greases as used for car servicing are good - Castrol LM and Mobilgrease are a few examples.

Silicone grease is not very good, but that's just my opinion - it's not "sticky" enough.
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Old 4th May 2008, 10:36 am   #25
arjoll
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Default Re: Garrard 401 - pointers for restoration

Here are some photos of the issue with the power switches on a few of the decks - as you can see the end stop has broken off. This has happened to three of the six turntables - anyone heard of this before, or are Kiwi announcers just unbelievably energetic turning off their turntables?

Also the issue with the idler on some of the decks - when turning off it is not being pulled back far enough to enable a speed change up to 78. It can be manually pulled back to enable the speed change, but having to take the platter off to change the speed might be a smidge inconvenient!

There are two springs on the idler mounting - one pulling back away from the motor pully, the other towards it. Again, has anyone heard of issues with the former of these springs loosing some 'grunt' and not doing its job?

I've tried googling both of these, but there's so much audiophool nonsense about 401's its proving difficult to get sensible info!
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Old 4th May 2008, 11:09 am   #26
Patrick Dixon
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Default Re: Garrard 401 - pointers for restoration

Quote:
Originally Posted by arjoll View Post
Tonearm: at the moment I'll stick with the 3009, simply because I have two and think I may have sorted out the parts I am missing.
You could sell them on eBay and buy something decent with proceeds
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Old 22nd Jul 2008, 8:41 am   #27
11thNAMR
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Default Re: Garrard 401 - pointers for restoration

Hi arjoll,

Im new to this forum. Ive been looking at buying an old Garrard 401 to rebuild/restore for some time. I always seem to miss the bargains & or the price becomes too high due to shipping costs to NZ being outrageous.

Anyway-I know a few people here in Auckland who can source spare parts for the 401 & are happy to ask them on your behalf if they can help- there appears to be a large amount of after market spare parts available. I talked to one of my friends who has spare parts for 401's & he was telling me that spare part sales have fallen away recently. He thinks the market has been satisfied in NZ.Another reason might be the tough economic times we are facing here? How is your restoration progressing?
Cheers

Nick
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Old 29th Jul 2008, 10:21 am   #28
Thorens
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Default Re: Garrard 401 - pointers for restoration

I guess things have progressed for you since this thread was started.

I've had quite a few 401's over the years, the early units are as has been stated better in terms of build. I have also fully stripped and serviced several...Cleaning the linkages should be done with care as they are coated in Cadmium, once cleaned pertolium based grease (Vas) will work well. the 401 uses oil in the spindle housing to fully clean this area undo the thrust plate at the base of the spindle housing, and throughly clean with isopropyl or similar. There are several improvements that can be made to the bearing, ceramic bearings have less surface friction and do make a significant difference. Once cleaned and linkages greased you may want to tackle the motor. Clam shell in design the pulley and the speed disk must be removed...take measurements before dismantling as putting this back together correctly is the key! once open clean out with iso or similar. There are felt pads in the base of the clams which can only be accessed by drilling out the rivets ...If you don't wish to take a drill to your unit(s) re lube the clams with sewing machine oil and re instate them carefully using the measurements taken previously. With the platter removed you will see a felt pad at the base of the spindle, this can carefully be cleaned out and re oiled (There is also a screw which can be removed to access the oil chamber of the spindle housing which may be used to add a drop of oil or two to the spindle) replacement facias, switches and capacitors can be bought from: Here
Be careful to wipe all oil and deposits away from the idler wheel with iso....The brake can easily be adjusted with a screw from underneath the unit and should function to bring the platter to stand still within 3 rotations from 33 1/3 rpm. You've had an amazing result!!! I would imagine you will be able to cobble together several nice units and sell the rest off as parts (if they are clean and unblemished):
Platter = £50
Platter mat = £30
Motor = £60
Spindle + housing = £50
Strobe + loom = £20
Switches = £20
etc...
....
Your SME arms are 3009 series 2 improved detachable headshell. late versions with nylon bearings

In terms of a plinth, Lorricraft (Who now own the Garrard rights) champion a skeletal plinth, very lightweight - I've always used Slate or a Martin Bastin heavy weight plinth with detachable armboard - Depends on what look and sound you're after.

As this thread was started a while ago have you got any pictures of any of the TT's now??
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