AD35/B126 Batteries - UK Vintage Radio Repair and Restoration Discussion Forum

Wonjee2 · 14th Feb 2018, 7:51 pm

Hi
Can anyone help me with info on the construction of the AD35 battery it was 1.5v for the heaters in in battery valve radios.

I can't make my mind up if it was 2 cells in parallel or a single large cell.

I'm feeling a bit nostalgic and have started a refurb project on my old radio collection so I am looking at battery substitutes to keep the sets authentic..ish
Thanks

Cobaltblue · 14th Feb 2018, 7:59 pm

Every one I have opened is two cells in parallel however as the capacity of modern cells is higher and you won't need to be running the set as long I usually only fit one C cell and fill the space with polystyrene

Cheers

Mike T

Wonjee2 · 14th Feb 2018, 8:26 pm

Thanks Mike
Very helpfull now looking for details on a B141 battery there must have been dozens of battery types in the 50s
Also when adjusted I'm surprised how sensitive/delective these sets are!

Regards
Jon

Dave Moll · 14th Feb 2018, 8:55 pm

As your title also mentions the B126 (90V), I usually use nine PP3s in series (which fit nicely within the dimensions of a B126). Although the nominal 9V per PP3 would imply ten in series, I find it difficult to fit them all into the size of a B126 and they seem to pump out about 10V each anyway - at least when fresh.

Cobaltblue · 14th Feb 2018, 9:09 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonjee2

Very helpfull now looking for details on a B141 battery there must have been dozens of battery types in the 50s
Also when adjusted I'm surprised how sensitive/delective these sets are!

Yes I love battery portables you can see a few of mine here

http://cossor.co.uk/about-me-and-post-war-battery-sets

Also agree with Dave fitting 10 cells is a squeeze but to be quite honest they seem to work pretty well with 8 cells and 9 is no noticeable difference to 10.

The D series battery valves are a real favorite of mine and to me are the peek of valve development.

Cheers

Mike T

Dave Moll · 14th Feb 2018, 9:30 pm

There were indeed a number of the different radio batteries, and scans of some can be found at http://www.the-thompson-brown-family...eriesframe.htm. Unfortunately, when I go to B141 and click on the images, it takes me to a Chinese site offering the page for sale! Both AD35 and B126 work OK.

Wonjee2 · 14th Feb 2018, 10:21 pm

Thanks
I love these vintage sets.
I work in broadcasting and one of our stations is on AM so its good listen on vintage stuff.

My intention is to build up a collection of battery valve sets so far I have found Ever Ready, Vidor, Pye does anyone know if there is anymore?

Cobaltblue · 14th Feb 2018, 10:28 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonjee2

My intention is to build up a collection of battery valve sets so far I have found Ever Ready, Vidor, Pye does anyone know if there is anymore?

Did you not see my link

Yes all the major manufacturers built battery valve sets post war the ones you have named made up the sets most common today.

Go find yourself a PYE M78F

Cheers

Mike T

Wonjee2 · 14th Feb 2018, 10:34 pm

Hi Mike
Browsing link cool stuff
I guess PYE M78F is a rare one.
Hoping the vintage fayre at Warwick has some this year!

crackle · 14th Feb 2018, 11:02 pm

The links for the B141 seem to have been corrupted, if you want the B141 images try these links
http://www.the-thompson-brown-family...b141bottom.jpg
and this one
http://www.the-thompson-brown-family...es/b141top.jpg

Mike

Herald1360 · 15th Feb 2018, 12:11 am

My favourite valve portable is the Marconi P17b. Its black and chrome just "works" for me. There are clones from Ever Ready and maybe others, but they don't have quite the same appeal.

There are odder looking ones, but the Bush MB60 will be immediately recognised, if not as a valve set! (Collecting every set made in that case is a challenge in itself!)

There are even FM sets, though only a couple of rare UK ones. German ones are more common but not necessarily any easier to pay for!

Wonjee2 · 15th Feb 2018, 12:27 am

I'm trying to get my head around valves so far a 96 series and a 91 series. There must be more

Paul_RK · 15th Feb 2018, 1:47 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonjee2

I'm trying to get my head around valves so far a 96 series and a 91 series. There must be more

Those and their equivalents are the most commonly met with, indeed pretty much the only all-glass battery valves you're likely to come across. The 91s began appearing in about 1947, and quickly took over from octal-based valves in most manufacturers' ranges, though Roberts for one only introduced them in 1950-51. I rate Roberts' valve portables particularly highly, especially for quality of chassis and cabinet: just very nicely made, building a reputation their transistor models kept for quite some time but after a while didn't especially deserve.

Paul

Dave Moll · 15th Feb 2018, 9:08 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by crackle

The links for the B141 seem to have been corrupted

I did try to notify the site owner of this via the email address given, but that no longer seems to exist, so it may be that the site is no longer being maintained. Also, the link to "home" appears to be broken.

McMurdo · 15th Feb 2018, 11:26 am

regarding the B126, I have fitted a small plastic box inside to hold the cells, preserving the structural strength of the carboard box and its socket. The box I've used is a Hammond RL6105 from rapid. It's a slip-fit inside the box leaving room for the socket and polystyrene spacer at the top (open and gut the battery from the bottom).
You wont get 10 x PP3 in there but 12/15v keyfob batteries fit fine if your purse will run to it.

Herald1360 · 15th Feb 2018, 11:28 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonjee2

I'm trying to get my head around valves so far a 96 series and a 91 series. There must be more

There's also the US equivalents- type nos beginning with 1 like 1T4 = DF91.

Valve types- although the 91 and 96 series do hang together, there are others like DL94, DAC32 etc. For Mullard/Philips the initial letters tell you heater type and valve configuration then the numbers give base type followed by just an id number. See:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mull...be_designation

to get the full indigestion!

So for example:

D 1.4V filament
K Heptode
9 B7G base
1 ID number

D 1.4V filament
A Small signal diode
C Triode
3 Octal base
2 ID number

ad nauseam!

Anorak off now......

Chindit · 15th Feb 2018, 11:37 am

Hello,
I love the Ever Ready valve portables and own and have restored most of the ones dating from the late 50s.
For LT, either as part of a combined HT/LT battery such as the B141, or in a separate AD35, I use two C-cells in parallel mounted in separate single C-cell holders bolted back to back. In the AD35, this gives plenty of space for the socket and allows room to line the carton with plasticard for extra strength.
For larger combined batteries such as the B136 or AD3, I use D-cells mounted in individual holders.
Like others, I put 10 off PP3 soldered together inside B126 cartons.
The B136 is big enough to accommodate 60 off AA cells mounted in either x6 or x10 holders, can't remember which without looking.
Colin.

Stylo N M · 15th Feb 2018, 10:55 pm

The HT circuit will run quite happily on 70volts to 90volts so x9-9volt PP3 cells will be quite sufficient to power the radio, unless there are issues in the circuit that may need attention causing low volume. If the volume is not up to par then the circuit and valves need to be checked, pay particular attention to any DK96 valves that may be incorporated.

Although general speaking there are very few problems with battery valves, the only fly in the ointment I've experienced, is sometimes the valves go to air (slowly) resulting in slowly decreasing volume. Which leaves you scratching your head wondering why the sound is getting less and less each time you use it, but you know the batteries are OK but it makes you change them anyway

Paul.

Wonjee2 · 16th Feb 2018, 12:16 am

I have been working on the bench tonight on an Ever Ready Sky Baby set with 96 range of valves.
The 1.4 volt heaters voltage is very critical any small drop and the set goes basically dead.
Can anyone put a tolerance on heater voltage for these valves..
Jon

Stylo N M · 16th Feb 2018, 2:09 am

If I were you, I would resist the temptation to do too much messing about with the heater voltage. Anything below 1.3 volts will result in the valve dropping off due to insufficient electrons being produced by a poorly heated filament.

Now a word of warning, anything above 1.6 volts and you're more than likely to destroy the heater filament in EVERY VALVE in the set. The fact of the matter is there isn't much tolerance to play with, so don't do it.

You will find it quite supprising how long just two modern alkaline AA batteries in parallel will power the LT circuit for.

Paul.

14th Feb 2018, 7:51 pm	#1
Wonjee2 Triode Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Coalville, Leicestershire, UK. Posts: 14	AD35/B126 Batteries Hi Can anyone help me with info on the construction of the AD35 battery it was 1.5v for the heaters in in battery valve radios. I can't make my mind up if it was 2 cells in parallel or a single large cell. I'm feeling a bit nostalgic and have started a refurb project on my old radio collection so I am looking at battery substitutes to keep the sets authentic..ish Thanks

14th Feb 2018, 7:59 pm	#2
Cobaltblue Moderator Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Exeter, Devon and Poole, Dorset UK. Posts: 6,857	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries Every one I have opened is two cells in parallel however as the capacity of modern cells is higher and you won't need to be running the set as long I usually only fit one C cell and fill the space with polystyrene Cheers Mike T __________________ Invisible airwaves crackle with life or at least they used to Mike T BVWS member. www.cossor.co.uk

14th Feb 2018, 8:26 pm	#3
Wonjee2 Triode Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Coalville, Leicestershire, UK. Posts: 14	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries Thanks Mike Very helpfull now looking for details on a B141 battery there must have been dozens of battery types in the 50s Also when adjusted I'm surprised how sensitive/delective these sets are! Regards Jon

14th Feb 2018, 8:55 pm	#4
Dave Moll Dekatron Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: West Cumbria (CA13), UK Posts: 6,127	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries As your title also mentions the B126 (90V), I usually use nine PP3s in series (which fit nicely within the dimensions of a B126). Although the nominal 9V per PP3 would imply ten in series, I find it difficult to fit them all into the size of a B126 and they seem to pump out about 10V each anyway - at least when fresh. __________________ Mending is better than Ending (cf Brave New World by Aldous Huxley)

14th Feb 2018, 9:30 pm	#6
Dave Moll Dekatron Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: West Cumbria (CA13), UK Posts: 6,127	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries There were indeed a number of the different radio batteries, and scans of some can be found at http://www.the-thompson-brown-family...eriesframe.htm. Unfortunately, when I go to B141 and click on the images, it takes me to a Chinese site offering the page for sale! Both AD35 and B126 work OK. __________________ Mending is better than Ending (cf Brave New World by Aldous Huxley)

14th Feb 2018, 10:21 pm	#7
Wonjee2 Triode Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Coalville, Leicestershire, UK. Posts: 14	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries Thanks I love these vintage sets. I work in broadcasting and one of our stations is on AM so its good listen on vintage stuff. My intention is to build up a collection of battery valve sets so far I have found Ever Ready, Vidor, Pye does anyone know if there is anymore?

14th Feb 2018, 10:34 pm	#9
Wonjee2 Triode Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Coalville, Leicestershire, UK. Posts: 14	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries Hi Mike Browsing link cool stuff I guess PYE M78F is a rare one. Hoping the vintage fayre at Warwick has some this year!

14th Feb 2018, 11:02 pm	#10
crackle Rest in Peace Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Basildon, Essex, UK. Posts: 4,100	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries The links for the B141 seem to have been corrupted, if you want the B141 images try these links http://www.the-thompson-brown-family...b141bottom.jpg and this one http://www.the-thompson-brown-family...es/b141top.jpg Mike

15th Feb 2018, 12:11 am	#11
Herald1360 Dekatron Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Leominster, Herefordshire, UK. Posts: 16,535	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries My favourite valve portable is the Marconi P17b. Its black and chrome just "works" for me. There are clones from Ever Ready and maybe others, but they don't have quite the same appeal. There are odder looking ones, but the Bush MB60 will be immediately recognised, if not as a valve set! (Collecting every set made in that case is a challenge in itself!) There are even FM sets, though only a couple of rare UK ones. German ones are more common but not necessarily any easier to pay for! __________________ ....__________ ....\|____\|\|__\|__\_____ .=.\| _---\__\|__\|_---_\|. .........O..Chris....O

15th Feb 2018, 12:27 am	#12
Wonjee2 Triode Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Coalville, Leicestershire, UK. Posts: 14	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries I'm trying to get my head around valves so far a 96 series and a 91 series. There must be more

15th Feb 2018, 11:26 am	#15
McMurdo Dekatron Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Staffordshire Moorlands, UK. Posts: 5,269	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries regarding the B126, I have fitted a small plastic box inside to hold the cells, preserving the structural strength of the carboard box and its socket. The box I've used is a Hammond RL6105 from rapid. It's a slip-fit inside the box leaving room for the socket and polystyrene spacer at the top (open and gut the battery from the bottom). You wont get 10 x PP3 in there but 12/15v keyfob batteries fit fine if your purse will run to it. __________________ Kevin

15th Feb 2018, 11:37 am	#17
Chindit Tetrode Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Bishop Auckland, County Durham, UK. Posts: 97	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries Hello, I love the Ever Ready valve portables and own and have restored most of the ones dating from the late 50s. For LT, either as part of a combined HT/LT battery such as the B141, or in a separate AD35, I use two C-cells in parallel mounted in separate single C-cell holders bolted back to back. In the AD35, this gives plenty of space for the socket and allows room to line the carton with plasticard for extra strength. For larger combined batteries such as the B136 or AD3, I use D-cells mounted in individual holders. Like others, I put 10 off PP3 soldered together inside B126 cartons. The B136 is big enough to accommodate 60 off AA cells mounted in either x6 or x10 holders, can't remember which without looking. Colin.

15th Feb 2018, 10:55 pm	#18
Stylo N M Heptode Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Derby DE1, Derbyshire, UK. Posts: 626	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries The HT circuit will run quite happily on 70volts to 90volts so x9-9volt PP3 cells will be quite sufficient to power the radio, unless there are issues in the circuit that may need attention causing low volume. If the volume is not up to par then the circuit and valves need to be checked, pay particular attention to any DK96 valves that may be incorporated. Although general speaking there are very few problems with battery valves, the only fly in the ointment I've experienced, is sometimes the valves go to air (slowly) resulting in slowly decreasing volume. Which leaves you scratching your head wondering why the sound is getting less and less each time you use it, but you know the batteries are OK but it makes you change them anyway Paul.

16th Feb 2018, 12:16 am	#19
Wonjee2 Triode Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Coalville, Leicestershire, UK. Posts: 14	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries I have been working on the bench tonight on an Ever Ready Sky Baby set with 96 range of valves. The 1.4 volt heaters voltage is very critical any small drop and the set goes basically dead. Can anyone put a tolerance on heater voltage for these valves.. Jon

16th Feb 2018, 2:09 am	#20
Stylo N M Heptode Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Derby DE1, Derbyshire, UK. Posts: 626	Re: AD35/B126 Batteries If I were you, I would resist the temptation to do too much messing about with the heater voltage. Anything below 1.3 volts will result in the valve dropping off due to insufficient electrons being produced by a poorly heated filament. Now a word of warning, anything above 1.6 volts and you're more than likely to destroy the heater filament in EVERY VALVE in the set. The fact of the matter is there isn't much tolerance to play with, so don't do it. You will find it quite supprising how long just two modern alkaline AA batteries in parallel will power the LT circuit for. Paul.