How to detach the Pye badge from the front of a wireless ?

[GrimJosef]

I want to set about restoring, as far as possible, the front of a Pye wireless I've got. But before I can go any further I need to remove the Pye badge (see pic). Can anyone tell me how it's attached ? At present it tilts very slightly upwards so there's a tiny gap at the bottom between it and the veneer. If I insert the edge of a Stanley knife blade and pry very, very, gently then I can see the badge move. So it's not held there with a rigid glue. Is it like a giant drawing pin just pushed into the woodwork ? Or is there a woodscrew thread on the back ? Or is something even more fiendish going on ?

Cheers,

GJ

[Radio_Dave]

Press with your thumb and unscrew. If it's stuck try again with rubber glove on

[Audio1950]

Or get a length of nylon fishing line into the gap and use a gentle to-and-fro movement to cut gently through the glue.

Barry

[60 oldjohn]

Is there a nut inside the cabinet? I have seen badge the same as yours with a threaded rod atached. John.

[GrimJosef]

Well ... good news and bad news.

The badge did indeed unscrew. As far as I can tell there was no glue behind it but there was a lot of what looked like compacted dust. I couldn't move it with my thumb on its own but the rubber glove trick eventually worked . Thanks for that suggestion Dave - I wouldn't have thought of that ! And thanks to John and Barry too - I'll file those away for next time I'm stuck. You can see the thread in the first pic. It looks like it would take a nut if necessary but the hole in my panel is blind.

Unfortunately when I came to look at the badge once it was loose I noticed it was damaged ! A small piece of the black material has fallen out from between the Y and the E. What's left looks like broken glass under a magnifier, so I guess it's enamel. It catches the light in an irritatingly effective way. Oh poo . I've attached a couple of pics but it's not easy to photograph.

I'm not aware that there's any way of convincingly repairing enamel. Would the best approach be a dot of black epoxy - the sort used to pot semiconductor circuits sometimes - then scrape/abrade until it's flush ? Or are there any better remedies ? Otherwise I may be reduced to posting a request in the Sets and Parts Wanted forum ...

Cheers,

GJ

Thats the problem with enamel (glass not paint) it has a very different expansion than the base material. Those famous Russian eggs had a habbit of spontaniously falling to bits, a very expensive thing. Try a bit of black wax, heating the badge to allow it to flow in properly, reversible too.

Had a thought, remove all the enamel and replace with black epoxy, overfill and abrade with wet and dry back to the metal. Or find a local jewlery maker or school that do enamel work.

[Radio_Dave]

I've filled in chips like that with enamel paint. Build up enough layers to get the depth, flatten down with P1200 and then lacquer.

David

[chipp1968]

I recon as David says fill with paint . Quick drying quick build up may be useful like a cellulose type paint .I had a similar prob with an Ekco badge on a Tv , screwing it back on too tight and there was an unpleasant popping noise

[boxdoctor]

How about black smooth Hammerite ?. If carefully applied (dropped on with the badge horizontal), it would run to the shape of the cavity, and it dries to a good hard gloss finish. -Just a thought. Tony